What did you do to your 6.0 today? - Page 6250 - Ford Powerstroke Diesel Forum
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post #62491 of 62797 Old 10-19-2019, 06:01 PM
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Originally Posted by mbsfield18 View Post
Is there a specific 6.4 starter that fits the 6.0's or is it any year? Also want to know the same about the trans pan and filter?

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Any 6.4 starter will work, I got one cheap off ebay then had the local alternator shop clean it up and go through it
The trans pan and filter from the 6.4 is a better design than the 6.0 setup


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post #62492 of 62797 Old 10-19-2019, 06:28 PM
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Originally Posted by voodooridr View Post
Any 6.4 starter will work, I got one cheap off ebay then had the local alternator shop clean it up and go through it
The trans pan and filter from the 6.4 is a better design than the 6.0 setup


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Do you use the bolts that come with both or the originals? Just curious if everything is the same.

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post #62493 of 62797 Old 10-19-2019, 06:33 PM
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The trans filter from 6.4 is a true filter, not just a screen. If you do it, change the inline canister ( toilet paper roll ) filter at the same time. It's just a bypass filter, but you need it there to maintain flow thru the cooler, or eliminate it completely.

I got my OEM pan from a local trans rebuilder for $20. The pan is wider where the filter sits is why you need the newer style
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post #62494 of 62797 Old 10-19-2019, 06:36 PM
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Originally Posted by mbsfield18 View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by voodooridr View Post
Any 6.4 starter will work, I got one cheap off ebay then had the local alternator shop clean it up and go through it
The trans pan and filter from the 6.4 is a better design than the 6.0 setup


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Do you use the bolts that come with both or the originals? Just curious if everything is the same.

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The starter is a direct bolt in. Use what ever bolts are cleaner. Same for trans pan. The trans gasket is reusable also
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post #62495 of 62797 Old 10-19-2019, 06:45 PM
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Wired in Edge EAS to my Insight CTS2 to add fuel pressure gauge. Original install didn't have the EAS with the EGT sensor. Purchased a BPD fuel filter cap to mount sensor on but BPD cap was extremely tight - would not thread all the way onto filter housing. Now adding Russel fittings/line to plumb sensor from test port on fuel filter housing.

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post #62496 of 62797 Old 10-19-2019, 06:52 PM
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What mounts did you use? I just redid mine with S&B.

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post #62497 of 62797 Old 10-20-2019, 09:12 AM
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Originally Posted by repalmer View Post
The trans filter from 6.4 is a true filter, not just a screen. If you do it, change the inline canister ( toilet paper roll ) filter at the same time. It's just a bypass filter, but you need it there to maintain flow thru the cooler, or eliminate it completely.

I got my OEM pan from a local trans rebuilder for $20. The pan is wider where the filter sits is why you need the newer style
Dont think I would ever eliminate inline canister filter, as long as you buy the one that looks like a toilet paper roll, not the pleated one, it does a great job of filtering the fluid, my filter seems to come out grey every time and my fluid stays pretty darn clean so leads me to think that filter is cleaning the fluid way better than any filter in the pan JMHO
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post #62498 of 62797 Old 10-20-2019, 10:06 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by repalmer View Post
The trans filter from 6.4 is a true filter, not just a screen. If you do it, change the inline canister ( toilet paper roll ) filter at the same time. It's just a bypass filter, but you need it there to maintain flow thru the cooler, or eliminate it completely.

I got my OEM pan from a local trans rebuilder for $20. The pan is wider where the filter sits is why you need the newer style
Dont think I would ever eliminate inline canister filter, as long as you buy the one that looks like a toilet paper roll, not the pleated one, it does a great job of filtering the fluid, my filter seems to come out grey every time and my fluid stays pretty darn clean so leads me to think that filter is cleaning the fluid way better than any filter in the pan JMHO
If you haven't upgraded, that's the only filter you have, and it's only a bypass filter(i.e. only about 10% filtration). The one in the pan is only a screen. That's the reason for the upgrade to the 6.4 era pan. It has a true filter in the pan that filters 100% of the time, not only 10%

Some people have thought since they added a true filter in the pan, the bypass filter was no longer needed. But without it there, the fluid will take path of least resistance and just go back to the trans instead of being forced thru the cooler

Last edited by repalmer; 10-20-2019 at 10:13 AM.
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post #62499 of 62797 Old 10-20-2019, 11:46 AM
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Originally Posted by jahcure04 View Post
Finally upgraded batt cables on the cheap. Used @TooManyToys findings/ instructions. Added a 1/0 cable from drivers frame rail to engine block and added a 1/0 cable from drivers + to pass + while keeping the stock 2 ga cable.

Also changed the 2 batteries.

It never started so nice since i owned it.

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Where can I find these instructions? I would like to make my own. What did it cost you.


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post #62500 of 62797 Old 10-20-2019, 01:30 PM
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Where can I find these instructions? I would like to make my own. What did it cost you.


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Watch this vid.

Also i used welding cables i had already what you will need is a hydraulic crimper

A millatary type positive battery terminal for driver side battery

4 or more ( if you mess up) 1/0ga crimp terminal preferably pre tinned .

Also a 2ga pre tinned crimp terminal.

A 10mm x 1.25 tap to chase the hole in the block if its rusted.

10mm x 1.25 ,10mm long

Heat shrink tubing for your cables.


Id say maybe 125-175 $ but everything is more expensive in canada so price out your items first.

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Last edited by jahcure04; 10-20-2019 at 01:42 PM.
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