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post #1 of 70 Old 01-27-2020, 06:22 PM Thread Starter
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more issues have risen

finally today after how ever long it was that my head gaskets blew, today we finally got it all back togther. But no start. It cranks and it has no codes. when it blew it turned over ans started everytime we need it it. we got it up and off the flat bed running and actually drove it into our shop, pulled the batteries and got at it where it sat. now it will not start. what we replaced: Head gasket obv, air intake gasket, mesh thing under oil cooler, FICM power board, injector rubber O rings and copper rings, driver side glow plug harness. The only thing i can thing of about this issue is that the FICM power board is broken. it was only the smaller power board we replaced. when the key is turned to on i can still here the chatter. there is fuel in the filter bowl. we did not take apart anything else other then what we needed to get at to replace what we needed done. when ever we turn it over it is very slow and low power because the batteries are a bit iffy, but none the less my dad can hear like a glug glug glug from the engine every few strokes when turning over. i can feel it in the floor board but not sure how to explain it. it should have enough power to start but wont. do i have to sync the ficm now or should it be basically plug n' play since it was ONLY the smaller power board. and again it drove into the shop and ran on its own and then once in the spot we needed it, turned it off and cut the power and to work we went so it shouldnt be the HPO. refering to my last thread the egr was deleted fully with a kit and oil cooler checks out, still getting check engine temp on dash and dial reading red hot or close to even as soon as we touched power back to it.
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post #2 of 70 Old 01-27-2020, 06:32 PM Thread Starter
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im kinda just fed up with this truck it was pretty much a waste of time. the only reason we did it our selves was because we dont have the money to get a shop to do it. if its what i think it is then there should be no problem. i think its the ficm the board could just be bad and i might switch it out with the old power board since it still ran and started with the old one it was just on its way out. gonna try and have a better night and not think about this truck but we need it now so no other choice
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post #3 of 70 Old 01-27-2020, 06:33 PM
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You need 150 rpm for it to start. Slow cranks won't cut it and low voltage will kill the FICM (new or old).

You need over 9 volts (preferably 10.5 or higher) when cranking for it to start reliably.

You also need to get the air out of the high pressure oil system for it to start.

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06 F250CC SB FX4 Lariat; ARP studs; OEM gaskets; Banks exhaust; DynaTrac Ball joints; RACCCV6000; JimmiJammers; Ravelco; SynchroMax in trans case; Fumoto valves; Harpooned; Blue regulator spring; DashDAQ; PHP FICM; RiffRaff boots; DCPower 270AXP; Power Inverter; Bilstein shocks; BPD EGR cooler, radiator, water pump; SCT w/ SRL+; Rotella ELC Ultra Coolant; X2Power AGM batteries
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post #4 of 70 Old 01-27-2020, 06:48 PM
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Originally Posted by bismic View Post
You need 150 rpm for it to start. Slow cranks won't cut it and low voltage will kill the FICM (new or old).

You need over 9 volts (preferably 10.5 or higher) when cranking for it to start reliably.

You also need to get the air out of the high pressure oil system for it to start.
I will +1 this. Its going to take some cranking to get the air out. A weak set of batteries will not last to get the air out of the system much less start the truck.

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2003 Excursion Limited 6.0 PSD 4x4 6" lift 35x12.50x20
KDD Long block, KDD O-ringed heads, Colt stage 2 cam, Mahle .020" pistons, ARP head studs,
OE oil cooler and LPOP. OdawgS3, HD up-pipes, Performace valve springs, 190/30 WDI, Marty's Reg return & NeverStranded v2 Fuel System, Adrenaline HPOP, TSD tunes, KC Stage2
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post #5 of 70 Old 01-27-2020, 06:53 PM
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Didn't catch what year the engine is, but if the ICP is on the valve cover, take that out and crank over
should see oil there before the engine will try to fire the injectors
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post #6 of 70 Old 01-27-2020, 07:04 PM
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Below is a link to your initial thread (it is an 05 Hydro).

I am just going to be blunt. You had a lot of issues that you probably didn't address.

The low battery voltage killing the FICM was a point of discussion. I don't care if your batteries are "only" two years old ... or even two months old. They can be weak or even bad at any age. No wonder the FICM was an issue and may be an issue again.

The issues of having high coolant temps and "eating" oil were not addressed. The brown coolant may have been addressed with the oil cooler, but usually oil in the coolant will coagulate into a type of "milkshake" color and consistency. If it is only a little oil in the coolant, it will float on top. Neither situation can be accurately described as brown coolant in my mind.

Edit - I re-read your thread. You said there was 100% oil in the coolant. Not sure I totally understand this. The coolant system holds 7 gallons. The oil system only hold 3 1/2. Regardless, you may have run the truck with inadequate oil volume. Some people say that you can't damage your engine with insufficient oil volume because the high pressure oil system will cause it to shutdown before damage can occur. While it isn't common, I assure you that you can cause engine damage before the engine shuts down.

As stated in the other thread, the oil not having been changed in 5 years is a big problem - even if it wasn't driven much. From your description, you weren't leaking oil to the ground so it was either all going into the coolant, or you were burning oil, or both. Any/all of these situations can possibly cause serious engine damage.

If you are still seeing "red hot" coolant temperatures, then swap the coolant and oil temperature sensors and see if the coolant is still hot. Also, make sure you have the proper coolant volume in the system.

https://www.powerstroke.org/forum/ge...l#post16371279

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06 F250CC SB FX4 Lariat; ARP studs; OEM gaskets; Banks exhaust; DynaTrac Ball joints; RACCCV6000; JimmiJammers; Ravelco; SynchroMax in trans case; Fumoto valves; Harpooned; Blue regulator spring; DashDAQ; PHP FICM; RiffRaff boots; DCPower 270AXP; Power Inverter; Bilstein shocks; BPD EGR cooler, radiator, water pump; SCT w/ SRL+; Rotella ELC Ultra Coolant; X2Power AGM batteries
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Last edited by bismic; 01-27-2020 at 07:13 PM.
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post #7 of 70 Old 01-27-2020, 07:07 PM Thread Starter
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Didn't catch what year the engine is, but if the ICP is on the valve cover, take that out and crank over
should see oil there before the engine will try to fire the injectors
05 f250 6.0
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post #8 of 70 Old 01-27-2020, 07:25 PM Thread Starter
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let me just add some more info instead of multiple replies. we drained the oil and it had a slimy really thick texture to it and after sitting for a bit the top layer of the coolant was super think and almost the same consistency as oil. yes the oil wasnt changed in a while but out of my control my dad just never bothered for some reason. the battery issue makes sense but i didnt know it could actually kill the ficm. lesson learned. as for the slow start it has never since new started fast at all. is a realitivly slow start but fires after maybe 1 and a half Mississippi or less. oil cooler checked out and had no leaks and no way for coolant and oil to mix. only the head gasket couldve been the issue and they were pretty bad. below i will post a video from youtube of the truck starting TODAY and one from a few weeks ago. keep in mind this is canada. egr was deleted and there were no ither signs of anything else going on besides head gaskets. in the normal start vid i show the volt meter. in the other vid i do not but it does real really really low. all sounds coming from the second video are all from the truck such as that gluging i mentioned you can hear a little

NORMAL START:

TODAYS START AFTER REPAIR:
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post #9 of 70 Old 01-27-2020, 07:30 PM
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Originally Posted by Strato_54 View Post
let me just add some more info instead of multiple replies. we drained the oil and it had a slimy really thick texture to it and after sitting for a bit the top layer of the coolant was super think and almost the same consistency as oil. yes the oil wasnt changed in a while but out of my control my dad just never bothered for some reason. the battery issue makes sense but i didnt know it could actually kill the ficm. lesson learned. as for the slow start it has never since new started fast at all. is a realitivly slow start but fires after maybe 1 and a half Mississippi or less. oil cooler checked out and had no leaks and no way for coolant and oil to mix. only the head gasket couldve been the issue and they were pretty bad. below i will post a video from youtube of the truck starting TODAY and one from a few weeks ago. keep in mind this is canada. egr was deleted and there were no ither signs of anything else going on besides head gaskets. in the normal start vid i show the volt meter. in the other vid i do not but it does real really really low. all sounds coming from the second video are all from the truck such as that gluging i mentioned you can hear a little

NORMAL START: https://youtu.be/1_8E5HBUHos

TODAYS START AFTER REPAIR: https://youtu.be/PUMNMNvh5vU
That for sure sounds weak but it also sounds like there could be a base engine issue with the uneven sound when cranking over. I don't like the sound of it. Charge the batteries up good and then hook some GOOD battery cables to it from another running vehicle. I would be curious whatbit sounds like turning over then.

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2003 Excursion Limited 6.0 PSD 4x4 6" lift 35x12.50x20
KDD Long block, KDD O-ringed heads, Colt stage 2 cam, Mahle .020" pistons, ARP head studs,
OE oil cooler and LPOP. OdawgS3, HD up-pipes, Performace valve springs, 190/30 WDI, Marty's Reg return & NeverStranded v2 Fuel System, Adrenaline HPOP, TSD tunes, KC Stage2

Last edited by letsmow10; 01-27-2020 at 07:36 PM.
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post #10 of 70 Old 01-27-2020, 07:35 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by letsmow10 View Post
That for sure sounds like weak but it also sounds like there could be a base engine issue with the uneven sound when cranking over. I don't like the sound of it. Charge the batteries up good and then hook some GOOD battery cables to it from another running vehicle. I would be curious whatbit sounds like turning over then.

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even on a running vehicle it sounds close to the same. it cranks really fast at first for a few seconds then dies down after a bit. though it was jumped to my little nissan pathfinder it still shouldve had a little more up and go. i am able to crank it by hand when the plugs are out of it. but charger is on it at the shop over night and will try again tomorrow and will update.
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Last edited by Strato_54; 01-27-2020 at 07:48 PM.
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