200k+ housekeeping? - Ford Powerstroke Diesel Forum
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post #1 of 13 Old 01-13-2020, 06:12 PM Thread Starter
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200k+ housekeeping?

Rolled over 200k several months ago and now we're facing a move from NC to TX.

So far work that has been done to the truck:
EGR delete
Sinister oil cooler (stupid choice)
Coolant filter
Blue spring
Turbo removed and cleaned, seals replaced
Entire front end steering setup replaced minus pump (used blue top box)
Coolant flushed (roughly 20k ago)
Insight CTS2

I change the oil with T6 every 5k and do the fuel filters every other change.

The truck has a fair amount of injector stiction right now and hates running at anything below about 160 EOT.

My plans before moving:
New Motorcraft reman injectors
Coolant flush (not a full oil cooler flush, just coolant)
Trans flush w filters
New headlight housings (factory) mine are torn up from 200k miles of road debris
Tune from quick tricks for economy/towing (something extremely mild to clean up shift points and help fuel economy slightly)
EGR probe for Insight

Is there anything worth doing on the truck before a long distance road trip towing a car hauler? Trailer is good to go, as is my hitch setup. The previous owner didn't pass on any maintenance records, so if it isn't listed above, I can't prove it has been done. Anything that I'm missing that needs doing?
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post #2 of 13 Old 01-13-2020, 07:00 PM
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Depending on year,stand pipe, dummy plugs, STC fitting. Also, the turbo feed line should be a solid piece of meta, not a metal braided cable.

You have a good plan. My suggestions are should do, not necessities. I sanded my headlights to get rid of the milky beat up finish . Not a good as new, but much, much better. A fuel pressure gauge is nice, but that can end up adding $250 to the cost.
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post #3 of 13 Old 01-13-2020, 07:23 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ChrisSki View Post
Depending on year,stand pipe, dummy plugs, STC fitting. Also, the turbo feed line should be a solid piece of meta, not a metal braided cable.

You have a good plan. My suggestions are should do, not necessities. I sanded my headlights to get rid of the milky beat up finish . Not a good as new, but much, much better. A fuel pressure gauge is nice, but that can end up adding $250 to the cost.
Can't believe I missed that piece of info! It's a 2006, and it already has the STC. I forgot that was done when the EGR was deleted.

Last edited by Jakl; 01-13-2020 at 07:27 PM.
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post #4 of 13 Old 01-14-2020, 08:14 AM
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I replaced my headlight housings with some I got from Amazon. So far I'm happy with them and they fit well and made a HUGH difference in looks and my ability to see at night. I don't know how well they will hole up but they cost me a little under $90 shipped Prime. So with the cost difference between new Ford housings and these I can replace them every 2 years and still be ahead of the game.

While you are waiting for the budget for new injectors maybe try some Archoil or Hot Shot Secret. I tried the Archoil in my truck and it helped my stiction. Not a miracle cure but might make it run a little better until you can get the injectors.

You might want to take a look at your battery cables. I'm going through my truck and replacing the positive and all ground cables even adding a couple to ensure good electrical flow. With as picky as the FICM is about voltage electrically compromised grounds can cause voltage drops and kill FICMS.

2005 F550 4X4 Crew Cab Lariat Flatbed 270K miles ARP Studs and basic maint updates otherwise stock. For Now.

*Sold*1997 Crew Cab Long Bed 4X4 (DRW Conversion)


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post #5 of 13 Old 01-14-2020, 08:31 AM
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One note of caution. Drain/refills and or flushes of the coolant system can loosen debris and start clogging the oil cooler. I would look into backflushing the oil cooler in addition to the drain and re fill of your coolant system. time and time and time and time again.... (see how many times I said time) people flush or just drain and refill and the oil cooler clogs later on.

It may not happen to you but I would ALWAYS advise backflushing the oil cooler anytime you mess with the coolant. super simple, and almost garuntees you won't introduce new junk to the small passageways of the oil cooler. They even make little backflush adapters so you don't have to piece one together from a hardware store. Didn't notice arp headstuds? if you don't have studs running tuning at all is very risky.

Initially everyone thought arp headstuds was enough but 50-100k later they failed again. MANY now get o ringed heads with arp headstuds and seems to be a much more permanent fix for the 03-07 6.0ls.

I still love the 6.0ls but they are just finisky and don't like to be treated like just any ole truck. they like lots of love and affection lol.

-99 F250, 4X4, 6.0 trans cooler, 08 mirrors, 05 grill, AIS Intake, lvl kit, JW Vbody, cncfab hpop lines, WW2.

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post #6 of 13 Old 01-14-2020, 11:31 AM
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My suggestion, if all these parts are stock to the truck: make sure the radiator isn't showing any signs leaks around the metal to plastic crimp points (found some on mine at 185K), water pump is cheap insurance (and you can upgrade to a steel impeller), fan clutch, belts/hoses (the ones around the degas bottle are suspect), re-establishing/adding grounding points was a great suggestion and one of the most satisfying as well.

With my truck approaching 200K, this is what I have been doing...


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2004 Excursion
183K and purring, Toyo R/T 285s, 4" Flo Pro, Atlas-40 FCIM tune, SCT X4 with looney, RiffRaff coolant filter/CAC boots, Hewitt/Marshall gauges (Pyro/Turbo/Fuel/EOT/ECT), Nations TAD-185 alternator, Big 3 cable/zoodad mods, Mobile 1, Delo ELC, when does it end?!?
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post #7 of 13 Old 01-14-2020, 01:13 PM
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ChrisSki View Post
Depending on year,stand pipe, dummy plugs, STC fitting. Also, the turbo feed line should be a solid piece of meta, not a metal braided cable.

You have a good plan. My suggestions are should do, not necessities. I sanded my headlights to get rid of the milky beat up finish . Not a good as new, but much, much better. A fuel pressure gauge is nice, but that can end up adding $250 to the cost.
A little tip on the headlight refinishing. After sanding them down in stages until you finish with 3k grit, use a high quality automotive clear coat. Go light coat, medium coat, heavy coat, let cure for two weeks then polish. They will look like glass and the whole process of resurfacing should take about 15 minutes per headlight.


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post #8 of 13 Old 01-14-2020, 06:57 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by ChallengerRV View Post
I replaced my headlight housings with some I got from Amazon. So far I'm happy with them and they fit well and made a HUGH difference in looks and my ability to see at night. I don't know how well they will hole up but they cost me a little under $90 shipped Prime. So with the cost difference between new Ford housings and these I can replace them every 2 years and still be ahead of the game.

While you are waiting for the budget for new injectors maybe try some Archoil or Hot Shot Secret. I tried the Archoil in my truck and it helped my stiction. Not a miracle cure but might make it run a little better until you can get the injectors.

You might want to take a look at your battery cables. I'm going through my truck and replacing the positive and all ground cables even adding a couple to ensure good electrical flow. With as picky as the FICM is about voltage electrically compromised grounds can cause voltage drops and kill FICMS.
Headlights will likely be factory housings. I had considered refinishing them, but for as cheap as they are new, I'll just put new on there and let them hopefully last another 200k miles.

I ran some of that Archoil stuff and it was great for that specific oil change, but as soon as I changed oil, the problem came back. I'll just put new sticks in.

I had looked into some of the projector retrofits for HIDs (professionally done housing installs, not HID bulbs in our reflector housings) but at $800-1000, I'll pass

I'll definitely look into some new ground straps as well!
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post #9 of 13 Old 01-14-2020, 07:02 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JustinOOO9 View Post
One note of caution. Drain/refills and or flushes of the coolant system can loosen debris and start clogging the oil cooler. I would look into backflushing the oil cooler in addition to the drain and re fill of your coolant system. time and time and time and time again.... (see how many times I said time) people flush or just drain and refill and the oil cooler clogs later on.

It may not happen to you but I would ALWAYS advise backflushing the oil cooler anytime you mess with the coolant. super simple, and almost garuntees you won't introduce new junk to the small passageways of the oil cooler. They even make little backflush adapters so you don't have to piece one together from a hardware store. Didn't notice arp headstuds? if you don't have studs running tuning at all is very risky.

Initially everyone thought arp headstuds was enough but 50-100k later they failed again. MANY now get o ringed heads with arp headstuds and seems to be a much more permanent fix for the 03-07 6.0ls.

I still love the 6.0ls but they are just finisky and don't like to be treated like just any ole truck. they like lots of love and affection lol.
Oof, a backflush? Hell, if I'm that far in, why not just put a new cooler on? Anything to get rid of this garbage Sinister one. From the videos I've seen online, you have to tear down almost far enough to get the cooler out.

How often does coolant need to be flushed to avoid the need for a back flush?

And no studs yet. Talking to Vivian at Quick Tricks, their tow or street tunes are just fine on head bolt trucks. They seem to know their stuff from what I've read online. I don't beat the crap out of my truck anyway. All of this is just to improve reliability and daily performance.

Yeah I love my 6.0. I feel like if you just understand the pitfalls of it and stay ahead of the game, the engine is a champ
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post #10 of 13 Old 01-14-2020, 07:04 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 6.0Castle View Post
My suggestion, if all these parts are stock to the truck: make sure the radiator isn't showing any signs leaks around the metal to plastic crimp points (found some on mine at 185K), water pump is cheap insurance (and you can upgrade to a steel impeller), fan clutch, belts/hoses (the ones around the degas bottle are suspect), re-establishing/adding grounding points was a great suggestion and one of the most satisfying as well.

With my truck approaching 200K, this is what I have been doing...
Love it! Thanks for the suggestions. I'm pretty sure the fan needs a new clutch anyway. I'll check out the radiator too. While the fan clutch is off, I'll probably put a new water pump on as well. I'm sure the hoses around the degas bottle are an easy kill too.
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