New to Diesels - Ford Powerstroke Diesel Forum
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post #1 of 9 Old 11-12-2019, 07:01 PM Thread Starter
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New to Diesels

Hi everyone,bought my first diesel recently and got a good deal on it.its a 2004 f350 super cab 6.0 automatic SRW. Finally got it registered today so the fixing process begins now. Itís bone stock, former hydro seeding truck by the same owners for 14 years. Iíve been trying to study diesel tech Ronís videos as much as possible to avoid asking the usual popular questions. As of right now i know it needs a jump start or maybe batteries, oil pan (which i already ordered and have) and maybe injectors or glow plugs? So when I got the truck, previous owner said it wouldnít start no matter the outdoor temperature unless it was plugged in. When I picked the truck up it was in the 70ís outside, plugged in, and I cycled it about 5 times to get it to start. My next steps are to start going down the list I saw on the forum for no start Question I do have is what scangauge do you recommend? Iíve seen those are a must have, along with eventually addressing the egr, head studs and a few other things. Any and all suggestions are greatly appreciated, and I thank you for listening to a guy who made an impulse purchase with minimal knowledge. One last side note, the goal for this truck is to start a small landscaping business for myself, it came with a fisher minute mount plow, but Iím in no rush getting into snow removal.
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post #2 of 9 Old 11-12-2019, 07:07 PM
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If you're doing an oil pan, you're pulling the engine.. so do everything all at once. Heads, studs, all gaskets etc. Pretty much all top end if compression is good.

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2005 F250 FX4 Lariat 292k
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ARP Studs - OEM Gaskets - Machined Heads - EGR Delete - 4" Straight Pipe Axle Dump - MBRP Up-pipes - Holder's 175/Stock Injectors - KC Stage 2 63.5mm - Custom Water/Meth Injection - Beans Diesel Sump - PHP FICM Tuner - SCT X4 - TSD Tunes - Riff Raff Boots and Clamps - Coolant Filter - Blue Spring - CCV Reroute - Powermax USA 250 amp Alt - Custom Big 3 Upgrade -
Check out MPA, those guys are pretty decent
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TPB!
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post #3 of 9 Old 11-12-2019, 08:37 PM Thread Starter
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Thank you, someone told me you can do the oil pan without pulling the motor. I think they said like unbolt radiator and steering, and you can jack the motor up enough to put the pan in? Is that a poor/hacked way to do it?
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post #4 of 9 Old 11-12-2019, 09:20 PM
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i havent done the oil pan in mine and honestly never paid too much attention.
but over the scan gauge i would go torque pro and a dedicated tablet or phone for cheap or get the cts both do codes and allow monitoring of more pids than the scan gauge.
fnd out your build date as there are 2 04 models early and late and both have slightly different
weak spots" you will want to address.
get a new hpop while you are into it and a relocation kit for the oil cooler to make life easier in the future heck check out the stickies section of the 60 section of the forum look for monitoring and bulletproofing a 6.0 two separate threads and if you get stuck there are a ton of great people here with more knowledge and experience tha i who will be willing to help
and welcome to the 6.0 family
these things have a really bad reputation (some deserved most not) as a result of two big corps playing pass the buck instead of fixing issues and building a better truck
that said the after market has stepped up in the places they did not and the issues with the 6.0 are fairly easily addressed today and once done they are a blast to drive no dpf bs etc etc
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early 04 f350 6.0 cclb lariat sr
Bulletproof oil &egr, elc, sct x3, edge CTS, afe intake, blue spring, t-500, MTW stage 2, Vivians looney, 305 x55x20 bfg at ko's, 4 inch cat back, 4"BDS fox shocks and steering stabilizer, tri pilar gauge set, coolant filter, riff raff boots, new headliner, 7 inch touch screen w/back up, new carpet, near whole new interior,

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post #5 of 9 Old 11-12-2019, 10:35 PM Thread Starter
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Thank you very much that was super helpful, I have an old iPhone 6plus or IPad Pro 12.9 I can dedicate to the truck for monitoring. I had a 2nd gen Ram 318 gasser for years that I loved, but ever since having the 6.0 I’ve grown to love it so much more. I’m mechanically inclines and have always done all the work on my own cars but I’ve never worked on a diesel before. I have an understanding of things in theory to a small extent, but have never been hands on. Got the truck and plow for $2000 from a guy I work part time for and really want to bring it back to life
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post #6 of 9 Old 11-13-2019, 04:02 AM
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Depending on how long/far you intend to use this truck and If you're doing an oil pan, I'd go ahead and do as much to the top end as possible including o-ringed heads.

k

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post #7 of 9 Old 11-13-2019, 04:35 AM
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I have a leak, just a drop a day, and I canít figure if its the oil pan, the bed seal, the rear main seal, or the front seal. It could also be any combination of the three.

Does the oil pan have damage like being rusted through?

DTR has a video of changing the seal by lifting the engine a couple of inches, but he did not change the pan. If you do remove the engine for this, thereís a lot of things that could be done. For me, Iíd want the lifters in mine changed and if other parts show wear, those also. Iíd probably get all four of those places my engine could be leaking from sealed.

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6.0 Flush Procedure:
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Good 6.0 Reading:
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post #8 of 9 Old 11-13-2019, 04:53 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SkoalsFinest View Post
Thank you, someone told me you can do the oil pan without pulling the motor. I think they said like unbolt radiator and steering, and you can jack the motor up enough to put the pan in? Is that a poor/hacked way to do it?
It can be done well by jacking the engine up. Just pay attention to things that might bind.

Removal of the outer shroud and serpentine belt is necessary. The procedure is to simply lift the engine about an inch off the frame, and that will give more than sufficient clearance ...... but it is HIGHLY advised to also loosen the two radiator brackets, and to remove the transmission line hold-down brackets (holding transmission lines to the lower oil pan).... and/or remove the transmission lines that run from the transmission to the external filter housing. It probably would also help on the 05 and up 4WD models to also remove the steering stabilizer.

Mark
06 F250CC SB FX4 Lariat; ARP studs; OEM gaskets; Banks exhaust; DynaTrac Ball joints; RACCCV6000; JimmiJammers; Ravelco; SynchroMax in trans case; Fumoto valves; Harpooned; Blue regulator spring; DashDAQ; PHP FICM; RiffRaff boots; DCPower 270AXP; Power Inverter; Bilstein shocks; BPD EGR cooler, radiator, water pump; SCT w/ SRL+; Rotella ELC Ultra Coolant; X2Power AGM batteries
No-start thread:

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post #9 of 9 Old 11-13-2019, 05:06 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ChrisSki View Post
I have a leak, just a drop a day, and I canít figure if its the oil pan, the bed seal, the rear main seal, or the front seal. It could also be any combination of the three.

Does the oil pan have damage like being rusted through?

DTR has a video of changing the seal by lifting the engine a couple of inches, but he did not change the pan. If you do remove the engine for this, thereís a lot of things that could be done. For me, Iíd want the lifters in mine changed and if other parts show wear, those also. Iíd probably get all four of those places my engine could be leaking from sealed.


To now have the luxury to be concerned over a single drop of oil per day is a good indicator of just how far we've come with fixing these problem-plagued trucks -- outstanding Chris!
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