Truck won’t start maybe new batteries? - Ford Powerstroke Diesel Forum
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post #1 of 10 Old 10-16-2019, 09:05 AM Thread Starter
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I changed the alternator and charged the batteries about 4 months ago. I pulled the batteries and charged them separately. I cut the CAT off about a week ago. Everything seemed to be running fine until this morning when I tried to start it. When I put the key in the ON position to wait the the glow plugs all the lights in my dash came on normally. Then they started to flicker and make a clicking sound and when I tried to start nothing. It just clicks at me but the keyless entry works. Windows roll up and down until the flickering starts happening then nothing. The starter was changed 2 years ago. Do I need new batteries? Maybe just charge them?

Thanks for the help!

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post #2 of 10 Old 10-16-2019, 10:28 AM
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Charge batteries individually. Load test them individually. Post results.
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Mark
06 F250CC SB FX4 Lariat; ARP studs; OEM gaskets; Banks exhaust; DynaTrac Ball joints; RACCCV6000; JimmiJammers; Ravelco; SynchroMax in trans case; Fumoto valves; Harpooned; Blue regulator spring; DashDAQ; PHP FICM; RiffRaff boots; DCPower 270AXP; Power Inverter; Bilstein shocks; BPD EGR cooler, radiator, water pump; SCT w/ SRL+; Rotella ELC Ultra Coolant; X2Power AGM batteries
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post #3 of 10 Old 10-18-2019, 12:46 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by bismic View Post
Charge batteries individually. Load test them individually. Post results.
Driver side 11.7 when not starting
Passenger side 11.7 when not starting

Driver side 13.0 charged
Passenger side 13.4 charged

But after leaving the batteries unplugged all day it seems like they slowly drain from 100% to 95 within 8 hours.
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post #4 of 10 Old 10-18-2019, 12:54 PM
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I have had a charged battery (13V) drop to near zero w/ a load test. Put a load on them (they will do that test at any parts store). If they load test good, then look for the short.

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post #5 of 10 Old 10-18-2019, 01:07 PM
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Sounds like batteries but didnt you say they werent very old?

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post #6 of 10 Old 10-18-2019, 02:21 PM Thread Starter
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Sounds like batteries but didnt you say they werent very old?
I don’t know how old the batteries are they came with the truck when I bought it 2 years ago. I got the truck started but now my abs light is on and stays on in my dash.
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post #7 of 10 Old 10-18-2019, 02:43 PM
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As mentioned above, gotta load test them each individually.

I had random hard starting - turned out that my driver's side battery held only a surface charge. Showed ~12.8v charged, but the smallest load would drop it down to 7-8v, and then read as 11.2v

New batteries, and I'm right as rain again
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post #8 of 10 Old 10-18-2019, 03:43 PM
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Nice post Doward.

For some reason the most "ignored" advice on the 6.0L forums is probably to load test the batteries! People seem to think 12.6 + volts guarantees a perfectly healthy battery. Maybe they are, maybe they aren't. Free to test!
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post #9 of 10 Old 10-18-2019, 06:09 PM
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Yep, gotta load test the batteries. At 24 months (known use), I'm betting they are at least 6 months on the other side of that which means they're probably toast given the batteries that people buy most often. BUT...you need to load test them to confirm.

k

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post #10 of 10 Old 10-18-2019, 07:32 PM
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I’ve owned multiple 7.3s and a 6.0 and all of them need new battery’s about every 3 years. But I also don’t use optimum or other high price, in my opinion I just get Walmart brand cause they are cheap. When I had ficm problems, my battery’s would load test perfect at Walmart ( i believe it’s how they get out of warranty) but they would only crank the truck for about 10 seconds and would die.

Keep good battery’s in your truck cause it will take out the FICM , if they start to get low while cranking , don’t keep trying it, just bite the bullet and get new ones.


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