Man, the smoke - Ford Powerstroke Diesel Forum
 51Likes
Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Display Modes
post #1 of 43 Old 08-23-2019, 05:04 PM Thread Starter
Compression Ignition Addict
 
twood71's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2015
Location: 30 mls East of Evansville
Posts: 451
Thanks: 23
Thanked 14 Times in 14 Posts
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Quoted: 66 Post(s)
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
So, some point today going home my driver front caliper froze on me.

Pulled in my drive and smelled like burnt wire almost, then saw smoke coming out between fender and hood on driver side and about crapped my pants, had a moment I was on fire.

Now of course looking back on the drive home, the unusual excessive frame hop/flex when I slowed down to turn off the highway and the slight pull to the left constantly all made sense to me.

Man she was smoken and I jacked the wheels off the ground and I could not move this wheel at all, passenger rolled fine.

So I know the basics and its straight forward to me but want to double check a few things.

Makes no sense to trust this caliper if I free it up would it?

As for making sure it's not a brake line, all I can do is pop the bleeder. If she spews fluid I know the line is fine.

The rotor should be tough enough to handle this issue correct? I'll spin it to see if it looks warped but expect it shouldn't be as big as the dam thing is. Can I be wrong on this?

Any thoughts on this shoot it, I'm at this point gonna price a new one hopefully OEM, ACDELCO the same?

Pics as she currently sits
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	20190823_190043_1566608532837.jpg
Views:	71
Size:	4.12 MB
ID:	722155   Click image for larger version

Name:	20190823_190112_1566608593060.jpg
Views:	70
Size:	1.44 MB
ID:	722157  

Last edited by twood71; 08-23-2019 at 05:10 PM.
twood71 is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #2 of 43 Old 08-23-2019, 05:18 PM
Premium Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2018
Location: Southern Indiana
Posts: 1,503
Thanks: 3
Thanked 131 Times in 129 Posts
Mentioned: 41 Post(s)
Quoted: 326 Post(s)
Garage
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Second pic the pads look pretty good yet -- loosen the bleeder or line and see if the wheel frees up -- if so then the hose is collapsed inside -- else the piston is binding

Would benefit you to get a couple quart bottles of brake fluid and flush the old stuff out of the other calipers while you are changing that one

Had that happen once on me when away form home, had to knife the hose to relieve the pressure(was able to continue driving) -- when I got home looked at the hose some better and sure enough, was closed off on the inside -- reminded me of Biology class in school, dissecting the hose ...lol
TooManyToys and SparkyF250 like this.

In my defense, I was unsupervised
.
2006 F250 Lariat FX4 cclb
Torque Pro and OBDLink MX bluetooth monitor
General note:
For all those wanting a premium silicone sealer Kubota 70000-73764 is the best your gonna find. This is a hybrid gray silicone that uses solvent rather than acid to start the curing reaction, this makes it safe for aluminum and and any surface that involves coolant.
Hydro is offline  
post #3 of 43 Old 08-23-2019, 05:27 PM
Compression Ignition Addict
 
Join Date: Apr 2007
Posts: 3,894
Thanks: 30
Thanked 227 Times in 209 Posts
Mentioned: 67 Post(s)
Quoted: 285 Post(s)
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
I wouldn't count on the rotor NOT being warped.

I definitely wouldn't re-use the caliper.
jokester00 and Hydro like this.
bismic is online now  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #4 of 43 Old 08-23-2019, 05:48 PM Thread Starter
Compression Ignition Addict
 
twood71's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2015
Location: 30 mls East of Evansville
Posts: 451
Thanks: 23
Thanked 14 Times in 14 Posts
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Quoted: 66 Post(s)
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Thoughts on the pressure relief valve/or old school name proportioning valve?

Never messed with one passed a 1997. Have no idea to test it if it's bad maybe not releasing even if they do that still? Maybe I think they deal in with the ABS instead?
twood71 is offline  
post #5 of 43 Old 08-23-2019, 05:50 PM
,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,

 
ZMANN's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2008
Posts: 28,223
Thanks: 2,168
Thanked 1,803 Times in 1,747 Posts
Mentioned: 686 Post(s)
Quoted: 3891 Post(s)
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
agreed on the rotor and brake line and if it was mine i would push some new grease into the unit bearing thru the abs port while i had it apart
mhatlen, john galt and jokester00 like this.

6.0 flush pdf
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
ZMANN is online now  
post #6 of 43 Old 08-23-2019, 07:41 PM Thread Starter
Compression Ignition Addict
 
twood71's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2015
Location: 30 mls East of Evansville
Posts: 451
Thanks: 23
Thanked 14 Times in 14 Posts
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Quoted: 66 Post(s)
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Quote:
Originally Posted by ZMANN View Post
agreed on the rotor and brake line and if it was mine i would push some new grease into the unit bearing thru the abs port while i had it apart
That is under the splash guard correct?
twood71 is offline  
post #7 of 43 Old 08-23-2019, 09:22 PM
Brrrrrrr......cccccold
 
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: Anchorage, Alaska
Posts: 1,698
Thanks: 100
Thanked 160 Times in 150 Posts
Mentioned: 17 Post(s)
Quoted: 391 Post(s)
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
I'll throw my two nickels in here.

You got her HOT. Don't take a chance. I know the temptation of saying well this is still good and that too.
Replace the calipers (both sides, you cooked that phenolic piston in that one), pads, brake lines and the rotors. so It'll set you back $300 (get the Z36 package) or $400. Flush your brake lines with DOT 4 or 5.1 (no DOT 5 please) and be all done. YOUR life and other's depend on this.

Now with that being said, check the hub for any signs of heat damage. Replace as necessary because chances are, there is some damage.

And trust me on this. I owned two brake and mufflers shops for years. I've done countless brake jobs and was ASE certified until a few years ago (no need for it now). it's not worth taking a chance so you can save a few dineros.
Brake jobs on these trucks are relatively easy. Get everything ahead of time. You can do it in a morning. with coffee br(e)ak(e)s (pun intended!)

Get to it! Any questions? PM me or just post.

Zach

07 F250 KR FX4 CCSB, Dark Copper Metallic/AZ Beige, Rotella T6
6000K HIDs, Zoodad, Fog mod/High Idle, Tinted, Rancho 9000s, Banks CAI,
Blue Spring, NUC/Amsoil Bypass Oil Filter
Z36 slotted/drilled rotors, Carbon Ceramic brake pads,
Warren 175/stock, Atlas 40, Fleetrite ELC, ScangaugeII

168,084 miles....
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.

Air Force Veteran......Go Blue!


To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.



To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.


Support Our Troops - Remember Our Veterans!
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
zsargent is offline  
post #8 of 43 Old 08-23-2019, 10:42 PM
california deplorable


 
john galt's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2013
Posts: 11,477
Thanks: 1,036
Thanked 643 Times in 621 Posts
Mentioned: 429 Post(s)
Quoted: 3099 Post(s)
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
agree with the better to er on the side of caution when dealing with brakes on a 8000+# vehicle
i had a rear stick on me when i was in reno got all ful of mud and i got in cleaned it out and then when i got home pulled the pins sanded them greased them and its fine but mine didnt get cooked
still planning to replace them soon with either powerstop or similar but again yours got far more cooked than mine from the sound of it i felt a weird drag and pulled over and it was hot but i could still touch it i just could tell there was a problem...
hope this all makes sense just got home from dropping my kid off at his graveyard job and im not really awake but not really asleep yet either so...
if this is too rambly just move on and i apologize

I like mead
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.

early 04 f350 6.0 cclb lariat sr
Bulletproof oil &egr, elc, sct x3, edge CTS, afe intake, blue spring, t-500, MTW stage 2, Vivians looney, 305 x55x20 bfg at ko's, 4 inch cat back, 4"BDS fox shocks and steering stabilizer, tri pilar gauge set, coolant filter, riff raff boots, new headliner, 7 inch touch screen w/back up, new carpet, near whole new interior,

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.


FederalOwnershipRespectfullyDeclined


To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
john galt is offline  
post #9 of 43 Old 08-24-2019, 03:12 AM
Compression Ignition Addict
 
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Jersey Shore (Not Seaside!)
Posts: 507
Thanks: 22
Thanked 87 Times in 73 Posts
Mentioned: 28 Post(s)
Quoted: 121 Post(s)
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
We had to "smoke" the brakes on Superdutys on purpose, and time how long they would stay on fire.

How much damage will depend on the friction material on the vehicle, as various types of materials conduct differently thermally. And since aftermarket material doesn't go through the same baking cycle that OE assembly line pads do they are more prone to smoke at lower temperatures.

And why the caliper locked in the first place; stuck pistons, stuck slides, stuck pads (bracket) or collapsed hose. I can't tell what year, but the '05+ calipers (TRW) are terrible for piston issues, the earlier Akebono designed calipers were much better.

The biggest tell will be if the piston boots are burned, then it's just new calipers right off.

If it's an OE assembly line rotor, they won't thermally distress (warp). What everyone notices for pulsation is disc thickness variation, from wear. But that wear can occur in this type of situation, and why the pulsing. It normally occurs during highway driving with little braking (off-brake wear). The pulsing under this condition can also be non-uniformity of one of the rubbing discs that excessively grown when very hot, mostly happens with aftermarket rotors

Attached are '99-04 burned boots and seals from a test, but with fairly good insulation additives, but what to expect. Typically with well-cooked pads, you see the white to gray ashing at the rubbing surfaces, that's not visible with the second image looking through the caliper bridge.

Similar, but this is the fade section.

Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	Piston Boot.jpg
Views:	37
Size:	125.8 KB
ID:	722167   Click image for larger version

Name:	Top Boot.jpg
Views:	36
Size:	867.5 KB
ID:	722169  
john galt and jokester00 like this.

Last edited by TooManyToys; 08-24-2019 at 03:37 AM.
TooManyToys is offline  
post #10 of 43 Old 08-24-2019, 08:16 AM Thread Starter
Compression Ignition Addict
 
twood71's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2015
Location: 30 mls East of Evansville
Posts: 451
Thanks: 23
Thanked 14 Times in 14 Posts
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Quoted: 66 Post(s)
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
It's a 06 2wd DRW

Got up this morning to pop the bleeder, and.went out to start on her and the rotor is freed up.

Fired engine back up and hit the brakes over and over for a bit, then went back out and the rotor was hard to turn.

So popped the bleeder, tightened it back down and she is free again.

So, this brake line can look normal but be collapsed inside,?

I expect a visual problem but it all looks normal.

Last edited by twood71; 08-24-2019 at 08:28 AM.
twood71 is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Reply

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now



In order to be able to post messages on the Ford Powerstroke Diesel Forum forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.

User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.

Password:


Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.

Email Address:
OR

Log-in










Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page
Display Modes
Linear Mode Linear Mode



Posting Rules  
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On

 
For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome