Man, the smoke - Page 3 - Ford Powerstroke Diesel Forum
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post #21 of 43 Old 08-24-2019, 05:20 PM
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Brake pedal returning all the way to home position?

I suppose after that the anti lock valve

orrrr ...I would be tempted to run the same test and loosen the line at the master cylinder, -- master cylinder has to return all the way home for fluid to flow into the reservoir -- if the hydro boost is not returning -- or the connecting rod is too long

People replace the master cylinder without checking connecting rod clearance -- I'm gonna say most of the time
Not sure if there is a "factory" specified procedure -- but basically when the hydro boost and master cylinder are at home position, there must be a few thousands clearance in the connecting rod length

Some of the other Guys may have input on this

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post #22 of 43 Old 08-24-2019, 05:26 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by twood71 View Post
Welp it is not the hose
The OEM calipers on my 05 have metal pistons and the bottom piston on the passenger side got rusty and was sticking. Didn't look at the new Raybestos to see if they're metal or phenolic but I've dealt with enough remans when I found brand new ones I went that way. About a month earlier I put Advance Auto remans on the back of my 7.3. If you look at both trucks now, the calipers on the 7.3 are rusting and the new ones on the 05 look great. They're zinc coated I believe. Can't beat the price and no core to send back. Don't forget to get a couple quarts of brake fluid. A cheap pneumatic/vacuum bleeder from HF made the job easy, pull a vacuum until most of the bubbles quit then standard pump em close bleeders, let off, open, pump em....to finish. Handy for fluid flush too, pulls enough vacuum to suck out the master cylinder before filling with fresh before starting to draw the old fluid out of the lines. I couldn't get all the air out with it but it sure beat doing it all with a helper pumping the brakes to fill the new calipers.
https://www.harborfreight.com/brake-...der-92924.html

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post #23 of 43 Old 08-24-2019, 07:18 PM Thread Starter
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Pedal Is normal on return. I'd like to think if my pressure release valve was bad both front wheels would be locked?

As i replaced the brake hose earlier i noticed the caliper was not equally spaced with each piston, the bottom piston was barely out and as for the top piston it was out quit a bit. So i had a moment i saying to myself its probably the dam caliper.

Now my side vehicle wouldn't start at first then now won't stay running, I haven't ran it since May,, so I cant make this a priority over my truck right now.

I have to to what I need to and so, I'll go down to AdvanceAuto tomorrow to pick up a new caliper. I needs a ride.

If I had one more day of PTO time I'd take off monday, but sitting on what I have left for added holiday time off coming up. The wife needs her vehicle. I'm stuck getting this back on the road by tomorrow
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post #24 of 43 Old 08-25-2019, 02:02 AM
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Sorry, what I should have asked earlier when you said opening the bleeder released the grip was if there was a pressure release of fluid, it's not much, but there is some with a bad hose.

Your observation of the pistons acting differently can be a good tell of a caliper piston issue, so the caliper flip is a good path. You still could have had multiple issues with a hose and a caliper. Just remember to check pad fitment in the brackets and the slide pins if the new caliper does not come with a new bracket and pins.
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post #25 of 43 Old 08-25-2019, 07:52 AM
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I wouldn't worry about the rotors. You can't actually warp cast iron rotors. I would do new calipers, make sure you do a brake flush before you replace them.
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post #26 of 43 Old 08-25-2019, 02:11 PM Thread Starter
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Dam Caliper

Thanks for the tips guys
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post #27 of 43 Old 08-25-2019, 04:44 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gaius View Post
I wouldn't worry about the rotors. You can't actually warp cast iron rotors. I would do new calipers, make sure you do a brake flush before you replace them.
Right or wrong, here is what I have been taught -

Since the metal of the rotor is harder than the brake pad applying friction to it, then of course the pad will wear down while the rotor remains largely unaffected. With excessive heat, the metal becomes soft enough for the pad to wear down the rotor surface. This means that slightly less dense spots in the metal wear down faster and make the harder spots stick out, causing imbalance (I guess technically it isn't warping). Also, at EXTREME temperatures, some areas of the rotor can even become crystalline and essentially become harder than surrounding areas.

I have also been taught that improper lug nut torquing can cause stresses and essentially "warp" a rotor. Heating it up to excessive temperatures when exposed to improper torque can also cause an imbalance (that I called warping). Sudden cooling can cause even more problems.

Last edited by bismic; 08-26-2019 at 01:37 AM.
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post #28 of 43 Old 08-25-2019, 05:41 PM
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Originally Posted by Gaius View Post
I wouldn't worry about the rotors. You can't actually warp cast iron rotors. I would do new calipers, make sure you do a brake flush before you replace them.
First of all disc brakes are not made of cast iron. They are made of grey iron (which in a small way is "casted" iron). Cast iron in itself is way too brittle.
With that being said, rotors are warped on a daily basis by the thousands in a way that @bismic described.

To the OP. Trust me when I say what I said in my last post. You can chase your tail all damn day or you can just do the job right. You need to inspect the hub. Throw away the rotors and the calipers. I can guarantee that you have warped the phenolic pistons and damaged a few other parts.
Phenolic pistons do not like extreme heat. I replaced mine with steel pistons and I flush my systems yearly.

'nuf said.

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post #29 of 43 Old 08-25-2019, 06:31 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bismic View Post
Right or wrong, here is what I have been taught -

Since the metal of the rotor is harder than the brake pad applying friction to it, and of course the pad will wear down while the rotor remains largely unaffected. With excessive heat, the metal becomes soft enough for the pad to wear down the rotor surface. This means that slightly less dense spots in the metal wear down faster and make the harder spots stick out, causing imbalance (I guess technically it isn't warping). .
Correct, it's called DTV (disc thickness variation). The disc wears down in different spots, usually from improper break in. When breaking in the pads, DO NOT STOP. THis transfers disc pad material to the disc, causing different wear patterns in that spot. Ever seen blue spots on a rotor?


Quote:
Originally Posted by zsargent View Post
First of all disc brakes are not made of cast iron. They are made of grey iron (which in a small way is "casted" iron). Cast iron in itself is way too brittle.
With that being said, rotors are warped on a daily basis by the thousands in a way that @bismic described.
Doesn't happen daily, happens over time, on those gray iron rotors (which are in fact a type of cast iron). I stand by that rotors cannot warp from one high heat cycle.

OP, I wouldn't buy rotors until they have any vibration.
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post #30 of 43 Old 08-25-2019, 09:39 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gaius View Post
Correct, it's called DTV (disc thickness variation). The disc wears down in different spots, usually from improper break in. When breaking in the pads, DO NOT STOP. THis transfers disc pad material to the disc, causing different wear patterns in that spot. Ever seen blue spots on a rotor?




Doesn't happen daily, happens over time, on those gray iron rotors (which are in fact a type of cast iron). I stand by that rotors cannot warp from one high heat cycle.

OP, I wouldn't buy rotors until they have any vibration.
whatever man, I'm not gonna get into a pissing contest. I've done hundreds if not thousands of brake jobs. Had my shop for years.
OP do what you want to do . It's your life. not mine.

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