Drive it again - bet she locks up within the first 20 miles. That's exactly what mine did...

Agree with the others - change calipers, pads, and rotor and be done with it.

-jokester

Why would I drive it again? You lost me.

I did what Hydro said i should do to prove if it is my brake line that's the issue.

I will deal with replacing parts that got over heated.

I'm just trying to nail down what caused this and i believe it's the hose.

So on my last post I'm asking, even tho the hose could be collapsed inside, is there a physical sign from the outside of the hose, becuase it looks normal.

My bad - I must have misread your last post. To me, it sounded like since everything was free this morning, you were questioning if you should still change parts or not. Dang internet

-jokester

That would be typical of a damaged hose that acts like a one-way valve.

Aftermarket brake pads?

It's cool, back on track

Don't know on the pads.. the old man i got it from claimed to had a complete brake job done with new rotors all the way around and he proved he didn't spare the cost on things on this truck. I'd suspect he got the good pads.

Bad pic but the pads are pretty thick still. I'll know later.

Honestly thinking on this, I want to get a new brake hose and see if that fixes it first.

Then just park it and get rotors and calipers for next weekend.

Its how i'am, I like knowing what screwed up before I replace what got ruined.

Yes the hose can look normal on the outside -- I suppose there could be a problem in the anti-lock system, but go for the hose first -- much easier to replace

Agree on checking the hose first but if you do need calipers, RockAuto carries brand new Raybestos, not rebuilt. They have a lifetime warranty, I put them on the back of my 05 along with new hoses and they work great. under $100 ea no core charge. Recommend new hoses if you do replace calipers, cheap insurance

RAYBESTOS FRC11903N Element3; New; Includes Bracket Front Right
RAYBESTOS FRC11904N Element3; New; Includes Bracket Front Left

https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo...432134&jsn=531
https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo...432134&jsn=537

As Hydro said I would first replace the hose. But then I would open up the brake and see how the pads and caliper boots look.

Again, if those are aftermarket pads, especially if they do not have many miles on them, are going to be in more of a green state.

On the assembly line side of the brake business, we had to go through a deep bake procedure after the initial heat and pressure forming. On the OE side, vehicles come off the assembly line, go on the roller Dyno for a performance check, then roll out to the shipping lot. The rest of the transport to dealer lot is done with minimal miles. However, any vehicle at the lot needs to be able to be taken for a test drive, and the impression of brake feel can make or break that sale. It's not a situation of saying to the customer it is going through a break-in process or a dealer employee taking the vehicle out for 50 miles of traffic.

The aftermarket does not have to do that, the service personal often tell and the owner expects some break-in. The DIY’er is given a break-in procedure of several stops. In both situations, it allows for less expense by not doing a 12 to 18-hour bake cycle. PFC historically has gone farther, laser scorching the rubbing surfaces. No aftermarket formulation my company sold in the aftermarket, including the most expensive ones, ever went through as extensive of a bake as the products we manufactured for the assembly line. And even our aftermarket pads never were as short as other companies in the aftermarket.

The smoke and odor is the degradation of the organics in the friction material formula, and the amount of that varies in different formulation. It also is the off-gassing of ammonia and formaldehyde during the curing process. It’s one way to tell your new aftermarket brakes never had a long bake cycle when you first put them on.

Anyway, the long dissertation is you have newer pads of an unknown state of conditioning. I’d look at them first unless you are that nervous that they just need to be replaced. And that's fine too.

Edit - if the one side brake hose is bad, I'd at least replace the other side. Internal hose tears are typical because the hose was under stress from twisting or hanging the caliper. If a shop not long ago did the work, it's possible they did the same to the other hoses too.

Welp it is not the hose