Man, the smoke - Page 2 - Ford Powerstroke Diesel Forum
 51Likes
Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Display Modes
post #11 of 43 Old 08-24-2019, 09:31 AM
Premium Member
 
jokester00's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2016
Location: The State of Confusion
Posts: 1,997
Thanks: 143
Thanked 229 Times in 230 Posts
Mentioned: 43 Post(s)
Quoted: 487 Post(s)
Garage
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Quote:
Originally Posted by twood71 View Post
It's a 06 2wd DRW

Got up this morning to pop the bleeder, and.went out to start on her and the rotor is freed up.

Fired engine back up and hit the brakes over and over for a bit, then went back out and the rotor was hard to turn.

So popped the bleeder, tightened it back down and she is free again.

So, this brake line can look normal but be collapsed inside,?

I expect a visual problem but it all looks normal.
Drive it again - bet she locks up within the first 20 miles. That's exactly what mine did...

Agree with the others - change calipers, pads, and rotor and be done with it.

-jokester
john galt likes this.

2005 F350 CCLB FX4 Lariat
SCT SF3 - Currently running PHP 80hp Daily Driver Tune with Atlas 40 FICM Tune
Edge Insight CTS2 monitor
Edge EAS EGT probe
Edge EAS Fuel Pressure Sensor
jokester00 is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #12 of 43 Old 08-24-2019, 10:12 AM Thread Starter
Compression Ignition Addict
 
twood71's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2015
Location: 30 mls East of Evansville
Posts: 453
Thanks: 23
Thanked 14 Times in 14 Posts
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Quoted: 66 Post(s)
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Quote:
Originally Posted by jokester00 View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by twood71 View Post
It's a 06 2wd DRW

Got up this morning to pop the bleeder, and.went out to start on her and the rotor is freed up.

Fired engine back up and hit the brakes over and over for a bit, then went back out and the rotor was hard to turn.

So popped the bleeder, tightened it back down and she is free again.

So, this brake line can look normal but be collapsed inside,?

I expect a visual problem but it all looks normal.
Drive it again - bet she locks up within the first 20 miles. That's exactly what mine did...

Agree with the others - change calipers, pads, and rotor and be done with it.

-jokester
Why would I drive it again? You lost me.

I did what Hydro said i should do to prove if it is my brake line that's the issue.

I will deal with replacing parts that got over heated.

I'm just trying to nail down what caused this and i believe it's the hose.

So on my last post I'm asking, even tho the hose could be collapsed inside, is there a physical sign from the outside of the hose, becuase it looks normal.


To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.



To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.



2015 Ford super Duty F-350 SRW 6.7L Power Stroke

2006 Ford Super Duty F-350 DRW 6.0 Power Stroke
twood71 is offline  
post #13 of 43 Old 08-24-2019, 10:18 AM
Premium Member
 
jokester00's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2016
Location: The State of Confusion
Posts: 1,997
Thanks: 143
Thanked 229 Times in 230 Posts
Mentioned: 43 Post(s)
Quoted: 487 Post(s)
Garage
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Quote:
Originally Posted by twood71 View Post
Why would I drive it again? You lost me.

I did what Hydro said i should do to prove if it is my brake line that's the issue.

I will deal with replacing parts that got over heated.

I'm just trying to nail down what caused this and i believe it's the hose.

So on my last post I'm asking, even tho the hose could be collapsed inside, is there a physical sign from the outside of the hose, becuase it looks normal.
My bad - I must have misread your last post. To me, it sounded like since everything was free this morning, you were questioning if you should still change parts or not. Dang internet

-jokester

2005 F350 CCLB FX4 Lariat
SCT SF3 - Currently running PHP 80hp Daily Driver Tune with Atlas 40 FICM Tune
Edge Insight CTS2 monitor
Edge EAS EGT probe
Edge EAS Fuel Pressure Sensor
jokester00 is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #14 of 43 Old 08-24-2019, 10:20 AM
Compression Ignition Addict
 
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Jersey Shore (Not Seaside!)
Posts: 581
Thanks: 22
Thanked 91 Times in 77 Posts
Mentioned: 34 Post(s)
Quoted: 144 Post(s)
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Quote:
Originally Posted by twood71 View Post
It's a 06 2wd DRW

Got up this morning to pop the bleeder, and.went out to start on her and the rotor is freed up.

Fired engine back up and hit the brakes over and over for a bit, then went back out and the rotor was hard to turn.

So popped the bleeder, tightened it back down and she is free again.

So, this brake line can look normal but be collapsed inside,?

I expect a visual problem but it all looks normal.


That would be typical of a damaged hose that acts like a one-way valve.

Aftermarket brake pads?

Jack
Former Vehicle Test Manager, Friction Products.
03 F350SC 4x4 6.0 Auto 5/30/03

YouTube Videos - TooManyToys

Never buy a Ford Remanufactured motor
TooManyToys is offline  
post #15 of 43 Old 08-24-2019, 11:13 AM Thread Starter
Compression Ignition Addict
 
twood71's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2015
Location: 30 mls East of Evansville
Posts: 453
Thanks: 23
Thanked 14 Times in 14 Posts
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Quoted: 66 Post(s)
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Quote:
Originally Posted by jokester00 View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by twood71 View Post
Why would I drive it again? You lost me.

I did what Hydro said i should do to prove if it is my brake line that's the issue.

I will deal with replacing parts that got over heated.

I'm just trying to nail down what caused this and i believe it's the hose.

So on my last post I'm asking, even tho the hose could be collapsed inside, is there a physical sign from the outside of the hose, becuase it looks normal.
My bad - I must have misread your last post. To me, it sounded like since everything was free this morning, you were questioning if you should still change parts or not. Dang internet <img src="https://www.powerstroke.org/forum/images/smilies/biggrin.gif" border="0" alt="" title="Big Grin" class="inlineimg" />

-jokester
It's cool, back on track


To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.



To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.



2015 Ford super Duty F-350 SRW 6.7L Power Stroke

2006 Ford Super Duty F-350 DRW 6.0 Power Stroke
twood71 is offline  
post #16 of 43 Old 08-24-2019, 11:23 AM Thread Starter
Compression Ignition Addict
 
twood71's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2015
Location: 30 mls East of Evansville
Posts: 453
Thanks: 23
Thanked 14 Times in 14 Posts
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Quoted: 66 Post(s)
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Quote:
Originally Posted by TooManyToys View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by twood71 View Post
It's a 06 2wd DRW

Got up this morning to pop the bleeder, and.went out to start on her and the rotor is freed up.

Fired engine back up and hit the brakes over and over for a bit, then went back out and the rotor was hard to turn.

So popped the bleeder, tightened it back down and she is free again.

So, this brake line can look normal but be collapsed inside,?

I expect a visual problem but it all looks normal.


That would be typical of a damaged hose that acts like a one-way valve.

Aftermarket brake pads?
Don't know on the pads.. the old man i got it from claimed to had a complete brake job done with new rotors all the way around and he proved he didn't spare the cost on things on this truck. I'd suspect he got the good pads.

Bad pic but the pads are pretty thick still. I'll know later.

Honestly thinking on this, I want to get a new brake hose and see if that fixes it first.

Then just park it and get rotors and calipers for next weekend.

Its how i'am, I like knowing what screwed up before I replace what got ruined.


To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.



To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.



2015 Ford super Duty F-350 SRW 6.7L Power Stroke

2006 Ford Super Duty F-350 DRW 6.0 Power Stroke
twood71 is offline  
post #17 of 43 Old 08-24-2019, 11:26 AM
Premium Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2018
Location: Southern Indiana
Posts: 1,955
Thanks: 3
Thanked 188 Times in 184 Posts
Mentioned: 58 Post(s)
Quoted: 425 Post(s)
Garage
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Yes the hose can look normal on the outside -- I suppose there could be a problem in the anti-lock system, but go for the hose first -- much easier to replace

In my defense, I was unsupervised
.
2006 F250 Lariat FX4 cclb
Torque Pro and OBDLink MX bluetooth monitor
General note:
For all those wanting a premium silicone sealer Kubota 70000-73764 is the best your gonna find. This is a hybrid gray silicone that uses solvent rather than acid to start the curing reaction, this makes it safe for aluminum and and any surface that involves coolant.
Hydro is offline  
post #18 of 43 Old 08-24-2019, 11:59 AM
Premium Member




 
SparkyF250's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2014
Location: East central Ohio
Posts: 7,417
Thanks: 575
Thanked 851 Times in 815 Posts
Mentioned: 227 Post(s)
Quoted: 3324 Post(s)
Garage
Feedback Score: 1 reviews
Agree on checking the hose first but if you do need calipers, RockAuto carries brand new Raybestos, not rebuilt. They have a lifetime warranty, I put them on the back of my 05 along with new hoses and they work great. under $100 ea no core charge. Recommend new hoses if you do replace calipers, cheap insurance

RAYBESTOS FRC11903N Element3; New; Includes Bracket Front Right
RAYBESTOS FRC11904N Element3; New; Includes Bracket Front Left

https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo...432134&jsn=531
https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo...432134&jsn=537
TooManyToys, steelerhawk and Hydro like this.

Sparky
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.


2005 F250 CCSB KR 4x4 6.0 4" Flo-Pro,
Fox 2.0s, Toyo ATs, CTS2 Pro, Blue Spring, BPD 7.3 Fan Clutch, IPR Coolant Filter

2000 F350 SCLB Dually 4x4, 7.3 6 Speed Hydra, CTS2, S&B Air, 4'' SS Diamond Eye

2005 Explorer XLT 4x4 Mountaineer,
Toyo ATs, Wife's grocery getter

1993 F150 4x4, 302 5 speed, winter truck


To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
SparkyF250 is offline  
post #19 of 43 Old 08-24-2019, 12:12 PM
Compression Ignition Addict
 
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Jersey Shore (Not Seaside!)
Posts: 581
Thanks: 22
Thanked 91 Times in 77 Posts
Mentioned: 34 Post(s)
Quoted: 144 Post(s)
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
As Hydro said I would first replace the hose. But then I would open up the brake and see how the pads and caliper boots look.

Again, if those are aftermarket pads, especially if they do not have many miles on them, are going to be in more of a green state.

On the assembly line side of the brake business, we had to go through a deep bake procedure after the initial heat and pressure forming. On the OE side, vehicles come off the assembly line, go on the roller Dyno for a performance check, then roll out to the shipping lot. The rest of the transport to dealer lot is done with minimal miles. However, any vehicle at the lot needs to be able to be taken for a test drive, and the impression of brake feel can make or break that sale. It's not a situation of saying to the customer it is going through a break-in process or a dealer employee taking the vehicle out for 50 miles of traffic.

The aftermarket does not have to do that, the service personal often tell and the owner expects some break-in. The DIY’er is given a break-in procedure of several stops. In both situations, it allows for less expense by not doing a 12 to 18-hour bake cycle. PFC historically has gone farther, laser scorching the rubbing surfaces. No aftermarket formulation my company sold in the aftermarket, including the most expensive ones, ever went through as extensive of a bake as the products we manufactured for the assembly line. And even our aftermarket pads never were as short as other companies in the aftermarket.

The smoke and odor is the degradation of the organics in the friction material formula, and the amount of that varies in different formulation. It also is the off-gassing of ammonia and formaldehyde during the curing process. It’s one way to tell your new aftermarket brakes never had a long bake cycle when you first put them on.

Anyway, the long dissertation is you have newer pads of an unknown state of conditioning. I’d look at them first unless you are that nervous that they just need to be replaced. And that's fine too.

Edit - if the one side brake hose is bad, I'd at least replace the other side. Internal hose tears are typical because the hose was under stress from twisting or hanging the caliper. If a shop not long ago did the work, it's possible they did the same to the other hoses too.

Jack
Former Vehicle Test Manager, Friction Products.
03 F350SC 4x4 6.0 Auto 5/30/03

YouTube Videos - TooManyToys

Never buy a Ford Remanufactured motor

Last edited by TooManyToys; 08-24-2019 at 03:06 PM.
TooManyToys is offline  
post #20 of 43 Old 08-24-2019, 05:50 PM Thread Starter
Compression Ignition Addict
 
twood71's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2015
Location: 30 mls East of Evansville
Posts: 453
Thanks: 23
Thanked 14 Times in 14 Posts
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Quoted: 66 Post(s)
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Welp it is not the hose
jokester00 likes this.


To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.



To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.



2015 Ford super Duty F-350 SRW 6.7L Power Stroke

2006 Ford Super Duty F-350 DRW 6.0 Power Stroke
twood71 is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Reply

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now



In order to be able to post messages on the Ford Powerstroke Diesel Forum forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.

User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.

Password:


Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.

Email Address:
OR

Log-in










Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page
Display Modes
Linear Mode Linear Mode



Posting Rules  
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On

 
For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome