05 engine runs no throttle (sometimes) also misses some times - Ford Powerstroke Diesel Forum
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post #1 of 102 Old 08-14-2019, 05:13 PM Thread Starter
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05 engine runs no throttle (sometimes) also misses some times

Ok, I bought a 2005 F350 that had blown head gaskets. I put a new set of KD heads on it, ARP studs, oil cooler the whole nine yards and wrapped up up a bit over a week ago. I've been driving it since as my daily driver about 300 miles until today..

(original topic on the heads https://www.powerstroke.org/forum/ge...studs-not.html)

Anyway the truck has run absolutely fantastic over the last week and I gained enough trust in it to run it about 80 miles away then back on Monday. Again ran great out on the highway absolutely zero problems. After doing the "in cab head job" I was going in half & half on a car lift with my dad so we could both get access to one.

I hooked up a 24ft flatbed to go pick up the lift.. I made it all the way to the town the lift was at made a quick stop for fast food then hit the road and maybe a 1/4 mile I lose my throttle.. Engine is running at idle but no gogo.. Push the pedal down it does nothing..

Parked on the side of the road, played with things let it sit awhile start it up and it revs up.. Get back going and it dies but it's getting check engine and sputtering mixed with the throttle working "kinda"..

Stuck on side of road again but in a better spot.. Read online to check the Exhaust Back pressure sensor.. found one at Autozone a few miles away so took a LYFT to get it. Get back to the truck take my old one off and it's full of junk (grime).. Bad news is the new one doesn't fit the elbow adapter fitting on the bracket, but I bought carb cleaner and cleaned the old sensor and put it back on..

Engine fires up runs great.. (In meantime I also ordered same part to Oriely's just in case..) I drive to Autozone to take the wrong sensor back (sensor was not same threads and beveled tip) Truck runs great so I'm like ok I fixed it anyway by cleaning it.. I'm now leaving Autozone but being I'm 80 miles from home I opt to go to Oriely's to get the other sensor in case it's the right one...

Half way to Oriely's and the engine is sputtering, and barely chugging along.. I limp into the parking lot, go inside to get the EBS from them and they have the same one as AutoZone.. (It's a fitting with a beveled tip) I realize if I remove the bracket with the elbow I can just thread the sensor directly into the connector tube.. It fits I hook everything up, start the engine and no throttle response..

Now I'm left wondering is the new sensor the right one? This is the sensor both O'Reilly & AutoZone have

https://www.amazon.com/2007-2010-Max.../dp/B07BSSQQBD

But this is what the sensor that came off the truck looks like..

https://www.amazon.com/Exhaust-Press...JKSRX7MX4N547J

Notice the difference in the tips, different threads and flat vs bevel.. Are these sensor the same so far as voltage and inner workings? I can get the beveled one to screw on by removing the bracket & connecting it direct but at this point I dunno if it's the right sensor..

The truck still has issues with the throttle not working and running like crap.. However sometimes it will run perfect until it starts acting up. Also it throws out a crazy amount of codes with the old sensor mostly from other sensors and usually voltage related which is what I read the EBS will cause if it's bad..

So my question is will that other sensor work properly or is it the wrong one which is causing the truck to still not run properly? What else can I try to rule out? I don't think it would be the electronic gas pedal assembly because that wouldn't explain the engine running really rough and surging/chugging..

I don't think this is anything to do with my head job, I'm thinking this is just some sensor or something that has gone bad..


I had to leave the truck because a 80 mile tow with a 5th wheel trailer was gonna cost me over $600... Going back tomorrow with another truck and plan to load mine on the trailer and tow it home.. 8( .. Any ideas what else I can try short of the $500 throttle pedal and ordering the proper looking sensor online?

Also forgot to mention it's has a EGR delete and 4" straight pipe

Last edited by DAV!D; 08-14-2019 at 05:34 PM.
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post #2 of 102 Old 08-14-2019, 05:59 PM
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What are you using to read codes?
Did you clear the tube for the exhaust sensor? or maybe I should ask, will the tube flow air -- or carb clean
The engine should run fine with the sensor disconnected, as in no spluttering
The 5volt vRef is measurable at that plug and is used in ICP, EGR and cooling Fan -- engine will "run" without any of those connected
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post #3 of 102 Old 08-14-2019, 06:04 PM
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Since you had the engine wiring harness pulled back and the injector harness off I'd start with checking all the connections, especially the 3 on the FICM, then all the ones on the injectors. Does the EBP plug have the little white guide on the end? (see pic) if that fell off the connectors can short. I'd be willing to bet it's something simple.
The one other thing if it's not electrical is crud on the IPR screen. Did you use lint free rags and be very sterile when you had the oil cooler out? Diesel Tech Ron (RIP) said he's seen up to 8 screens plugged before he got all the crud out.
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2005 F250 CCSB KR 4x4 6.0 4" Flo-Pro,
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2000 F350 SCLB Dually 4x4, 7.3 6 Speed Hydra, CTS2, S&B Air, 4'' SS Diamond Eye

2005 Explorer XLT 4x4 Mountaineer,
Toyo ATs, Wife's grocery getter

1993 F150 4x4, 302 5 speed, winter truck


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post #4 of 102 Old 08-14-2019, 06:16 PM
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Symptoms of a plugged IPR screen are high ICP readings and low IPR percentage -- since the IPR is a dump for the high pressure oil, the PCM is trying to "dump" oil, but because the screen is mostly plugged -- that cannot be satisfied

Next thing that usually happens is the screen ruptures, from all that pressure and the junk goes into/thru the IPR valve

Not saying yours has that --just adding to what @SparkyF250 mentioned
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post #5 of 102 Old 08-14-2019, 06:18 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hydro View Post
What are you using to read codes?
Did you clear the tube for the exhaust sensor? or maybe I should ask, will the tube flow air -- or carb clean
The engine should run fine with the sensor disconnected, as in no spluttering
The 5volt vRef is measurable at that plug and is used in ICP, EGR and cooling Fan -- engine will "run" without any of those connected
I didn't have a code reader as I was on side of the road. While at O'reily's I had then check the codes but had a ton of them so it was hard to check any of them myself..
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post #6 of 102 Old 08-14-2019, 06:29 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by SparkyF250 View Post
Since you had the engine wiring harness pulled back and the injector harness off I'd start with checking all the connections, especially the 3 on the FICM, then all the ones on the injectors. Does the EBP plug have the little white guide on the end? (see pic) if that fell off the connectors can short. I'd be willing to bet it's something simple.
The one other thing if it's not electrical is crud on the IPR screen. Did you use lint free rags and be very sterile when you had the oil cooler out? Diesel Tech Ron (RIP) said he's seen up to 8 screens plugged before he got all the crud out.
I'm not sure on the white guides.I did check the FICM plugs and checked quite a few others but not the injectors. What gets me though is how it will go back to running perfect for a bit then go no throttle.. Wouldn't a plugged IPR not work all because it's plugged up? As far as keeping things clean, yea I cleaned it all like crazy before taking it apart and did everything I could to keep it all clean. I can't 100% rule out nothing got in there but yes I was very careful. (I didn't clean anything inside the engine with those blue rags they were only used to cover the opening

I did have to pull the IRP valve back off the engine when I was plugging in the harness because I couldn't get the plug to lock in place. (plug was broken) I had to remove the IRP valve so I could confirm which way the new plug had to be installed (soldered and used heat shrink on the new plug/wires). When I pulled the IPR out the new screen stayed stuck inside and didn't come out with the valve..

I had to use needle nose pliers to reach in there and pull the screen out and reinstall it (came out very easy). I checked the screen out to make sure there was no damage and reinstalled (this was all before I ever did the 1st start with the new heads, oil cooler.. ect)

Edit for the record, I did pull the HPOP and replaced that thing you use the plastic guides on to line it up properly. (can't think what it's called at the moment)

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post #7 of 102 Old 08-14-2019, 06:47 PM Thread Starter
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Symptoms of a plugged IPR screen are high ICP readings and low IPR percentage -- since the IPR is a dump for the high pressure oil, the PCM is trying to "dump" oil, but because the screen is mostly plugged -- that cannot be satisfied

Next thing that usually happens is the screen ruptures, from all that pressure and the junk goes into/thru the IPR valve

Not saying yours has that --just adding to what @SparkyF250 mentioned
Isn't the issue with the IRP no starts? (I think that's what I read before) The engine gives no issues at all starting, no long starts or anything. It will fire right up, just the throttle doesn't work sometimes or other times it might start up with a rough idle .. (all this only happened to day)
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post #8 of 102 Old 08-14-2019, 07:00 PM
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My first bet is still wiring since you had it all pulled. You can try having someone give it some gas while you wiggle different connections and see if you can pinpoint it. It could be a chafing issue that's showing up now since you were handling the harness. @Hydro is pretty sharp on these trucks but lemme call in a couple more experts. Between the 3 of them they should be able to get you going
@LoxDiesel or @kaya any ideas?

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2005 F250 CCSB KR 4x4 6.0 4" Flo-Pro,
Fox 2.0s, Toyo ATs, CTS2 Pro, Blue Spring, BPD 7.3 Fan Clutch, IPR Coolant Filter

2000 F350 SCLB Dually 4x4, 7.3 6 Speed Hydra, CTS2, S&B Air, 4'' SS Diamond Eye

2005 Explorer XLT 4x4 Mountaineer,
Toyo ATs, Wife's grocery getter

1993 F150 4x4, 302 5 speed, winter truck


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post #9 of 102 Old 08-14-2019, 07:11 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by SparkyF250 View Post
My first bet is still wiring since you had it all pulled. You can try having someone give it some gas while you wiggle different connections and see if you can pinpoint it. It could be a chafing issue that's showing up now since you were handling the harness. @Hydro is pretty sharp on these trucks but lemme call in a couple more experts. Between the 3 of them they should be able to get you going
@LoxDiesel or @kaya any ideas?
Ok, thanks, also I'm also not apposed to pulling the IPR as I think I can get it back out still with out major surgery.. (I used the IPR socket and a elbow extension and got it out last time but then again I didn't have the harness or FICM in place yet.. so maybe that's in the way now.

Also can you guys suggest a affordable scan gauge unit I can get to be able to pull the real time info like DTRon was using in his video? (his was ScanGuage II I think but it's a 6 year old vid so I'm sure there is maybe something else in flavor now?)

I can see I will need to get some diagnostic tools to keep with me, specially if I use the truck for towing.
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post #10 of 102 Old 08-14-2019, 08:14 PM
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There's Forscan, you can get an adapter for either a laptop or Bluetooth for a phone. There's another one but I can't remember it now.
If you plan to keep and enjoy your truck go to cncfab.us and get an Edge CTS2, better yet you can get the PHP CTS2 Pro one and get some tunes now that your o-ringed and studded.
https://cncfab.us/i-30497709-edge-pr...cle-84130.html
https://cncfab.us/i-30497948-power-h...php-87100.html

https://forscan.org/home.html

https://forscan.org/download.html

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2005 F250 CCSB KR 4x4 6.0 4" Flo-Pro,
Fox 2.0s, Toyo ATs, CTS2 Pro, Blue Spring, BPD 7.3 Fan Clutch, IPR Coolant Filter

2000 F350 SCLB Dually 4x4, 7.3 6 Speed Hydra, CTS2, S&B Air, 4'' SS Diamond Eye

2005 Explorer XLT 4x4 Mountaineer,
Toyo ATs, Wife's grocery getter

1993 F150 4x4, 302 5 speed, winter truck


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