To Bulletproof or Purchase Newer Model? - Ford Powerstroke Diesel Forum
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post #1 of 26 Old 06-14-2019, 07:07 AM Thread Starter
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To Bulletproof or Purchase Newer Model?

I have a 2005 F250 6.0 with 148,000 miles. I purchased 3 years ago from original owner along with his Montana 5th Wheel. I use the truck primarily to pull the fiver.

The previous owner kept log book with all maintenance and repairs since new. It is 100% stock except the bypass coolant filter. Dinasaur oil and filter was changed every 3,000 miles. At 100,000 he switched to synthetic oil and extended change interval to 5,000. All other maintenance has been "by the book". I purchased at 127,527 miles, and started using both Archoil oil and fuel additives.

Turbo was replaced at 102,000. About 12,000 miles ago, did a Blackstone oil analysis. The results were that the engine is in great shape, and I could extend oil changes to 6,000.

Recently, the transmission was rebuilt (don't ask me what I did to need this repair). Also just replaced the calipers, rotors, pads, tires, alternator and batteries. Deltas never exceed 20 degrees (when towing over mountains), Normal deltas range from 3 (when not towing) to 9 (towing on flat road)

I'm concerned about when (not if) an engine problem arises, I don't want to be Found On the Road Dead!

I am considering replacing EGR cooler (Sinister-I livein California so can't delete), oil cooler (stock Ford), injectors (Sinister), glow plugs, stand pipes, dummy plugs, HPOP fittings, banjo bolt upgrade, water pump, Radiator and all hoses (possibly), shocks, and upgrade to ELC coolant. All of this as a preventage measure to minimize the chance of a catastrophic failure common in the 6.0. I figure this will cost $8,000 to $10,000. Of course there still are many other items that may need repair in the future. Is it worth putting in about as much as the truck is worth?

The other alternative is to replace this truck with a used 2017 F250 6.7 with less than 50,000 miles. This will cost significantly more ($40,000) than the above repairs. I am financially able to pay for either option, but the lower cost to "bulletproof" makes this option more appealing.

Would like suggestions from the Forum to help me decide which option is best.

Retired and on the go!
'05 F250 Powerstroke
'02 Montana 3280RL 5th Wheel
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post #2 of 26 Old 06-14-2019, 07:11 AM
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I would dial back any tuning your are running, do the ford updates to the pipes and fittings.

then buy/install the bulletproof diesel egr and keep their remote oil cooler on the shelf for the next big repair.

Then drive the piss out of that truck until it breaks.
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post #3 of 26 Old 06-14-2019, 07:20 AM Thread Starter
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I would dial back any tuning your are running, do the ford updates to the pipes and fittings.

then buy/install the bulletproof diesel egr and keep their remote oil cooler on the shelf for the next big repair.

Then drive the piss out of that truck until it breaks.
100% stock...no tuner.

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post #4 of 26 Old 06-14-2019, 07:25 AM
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Skip the sinister diesel parts. I got my bulletproof kit from them when I was at Travis Air Force base but they have changed in a bad way quality wise.


Spending 3-7k on a truck to get bulletproofed is way better then $50k plus on a 6.7l. If you are near Rocklin/Roseville the guy who bulletproofed my truck still lives there and he did my truck and a few others with zero issues during ownership. If I were you in CA.


drive the truck and ejoy it and just save money around $5-7k:
Get bulletproof egr and oil cooler (air cooled conversion kit) arp head studs and o ringed heads and your truck is golden. You don't have rust to worry about, all you gotta do is wear your tires out before the sun does it for ya lol. If you decide to pursue bulletproofing send me a message and i'll get you Marks number. He does 6.0L all the time for an affordable price.
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-99 F250, 4X4, 6.0 trans cooler, 08 mirrors, 05 grill, AIS Intake, lvl kit, JW Vbody, cncfab hpop lines, WW2.

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post #5 of 26 Old 06-14-2019, 07:49 AM
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Skip the sinister crap, go with BPD EGR cooler, OEM oil cooler is fine if you get the gold out and run CAT EC-1 ELC. Save up for studs, OEM head gaskets (or Cometics) and possibly some new Kill Devil o-ringed heads from KC Turbo. Stand pipes, dummy plugs, STC fitting etc. when the intake is off for the EGR cooler is a good idea, banjo's aren't needed. DieselSite make a good lifetime metal impeller water pump unless you have the $$ for the BPD one. Stick with OEM glow plugs and harness. Avoid everything sinister, oh wait, I said that already.

Ask @RedFord about his decision when he was asking the same questions...
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2005 F250 CCSB KR 4x4 6.0 4" Flo-Pro,
Fox 2.0s, Toyo ATs, CTS2 Pro, Blue Spring, BPD 7.3 Fan Clutch, IPR Coolant Filter

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1991 F350 4x4, 7.3 IDI Flatbed, 5 speed...sold

2008 F250 SCLB 6.4...Sold


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post #6 of 26 Old 06-14-2019, 08:22 AM
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At least your thinking ahead and have good choices to make.

Let me change it up by , If it was in my lap, my issue is having a good shop, I do not know of a good diesel shop around and the one I do know of went all EPA so they don't touch mods now.

Even tho I'm mechanically minded and able to learn and do the work myself, I have down time to consider for myself, My truck is my main transportation. I assume maybe some tools required that I may not have?

The big issue is my health now. My back, knee. That plays in it.

I'd be leaning towards the purchase at the moment with warranty , because I'd honestly would give the 6.0 to a shop if I could.

I do have to find a shop around me still for the future.


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2006 Ford Super Duty F-350 DRW 6.0 Power Stroke
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post #7 of 26 Old 06-14-2019, 10:45 AM
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I would skip all those upgrades and not fix it unless its broke. I have considered getting a newer truck but have decided against it. Big reasons are, I take this off the paved roads on some trails, not rock crawling, but not maintained dirt roads either. A new 6.7 would never leave the paved road. Also, my 6.0 is not a daily driver, and hauls my fifth wheel fine. When I thought about the new 6.7, I wanted a DRW to tow a little steadier, and to be able to tow a larger, heavier three axle toy hauler fifth wheeler. I opted to stick with the 6.0.
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2005 F250, 189,000 Miles
Bullet Proof HD Oil Cooler w/ Cold Weather Kit, Bullet Proof EGR, Bulletproof Water Pump, 7.3 Fan Clutch
Airlift 5k Airbags and Wireless Air
Edge CTS w/ EGT probe and Fuel Pressure Sensor.
15 MPG slick; 10 MPG towing 11k fifth wheel
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post #8 of 26 Old 06-14-2019, 11:04 AM Thread Starter
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I would skip all those upgrades and not fix it unless its broke. I have considered getting a newer truck but have decided against it. Big reasons are, I take this off the paved roads on some trails, not rock crawling, but not maintained dirt roads either. A new 6.7 would never leave the paved road. Also, my 6.0 is not a daily driver, and hauls my fifth wheel fine. When I thought about the new 6.7, I wanted a DRW to tow a little steadier, and to be able to tow a larger, heavier three axle toy hauler fifth wheeler. I opted to stick with the 6.0.
Mine also is not a daily driver, just use it to pull 5th wheel. What I am trying to avoid is breaking down while towing in the middle of nowhere, and then being at the mercey of the closest repair shop. Also the disruption of the trip we were trying to take. We're retired and spend a lot of time traveling. There are 100's of miles of desolation in California, Nevada, Utah, Arizona, Oregon, and Washington where we primarily travel.

Retired and on the go!
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post #9 of 26 Old 06-14-2019, 11:48 AM
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Mine also is not a daily driver, just use it to pull 5th wheel. What I am trying to avoid is breaking down while towing in the middle of nowhere, and then being at the mercey of the closest repair shop. Also the disruption of the trip we were trying to take. We're retired and spend a lot of time traveling. There are 100's of miles of desolation in California, Nevada, Utah, Arizona, Oregon, and Washington where we primarily travel.
As far as preventative maintenance, getting stand pipes, dummy plugs, HPOP fittings are definitely good ideas. Those can break at a moments notice. IMO the risk of a EGR and oil cooler causing a breakdown in the middle of nowhere is low. If you watch the deltas and being sure the coolant doesn't go down, you'll catch there early.

I did however get Level Three bulletproofing done at Bulletproof Diesel that included new heads, an air cooled remote oil cooler, and the Bulletproof EGR cooler, and that ran the upper amount of what you want to spend. I definitely do not regret getting that work done and if I had it to do over again I would. All I'm saying is that after getting all that work done, you'd have to be able to fix things that were not part of the bulletproofing. The big things that happened to me after all that work was the alternator, then the starter, then the batteries went out.

I'm also in AZ, and I maintain a AAA plan that includes both towing my trailer and my fifth wheel trailer.

I know this contradicts what I put in my last post, but something you're describing like Level III bulletproofing could be perfect for you.

2005 F250, 189,000 Miles
Bullet Proof HD Oil Cooler w/ Cold Weather Kit, Bullet Proof EGR, Bulletproof Water Pump, 7.3 Fan Clutch
Airlift 5k Airbags and Wireless Air
Edge CTS w/ EGT probe and Fuel Pressure Sensor.
15 MPG slick; 10 MPG towing 11k fifth wheel
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post #10 of 26 Old 06-14-2019, 12:56 PM
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Short answer... if its not a brand new truck and if you can do some of the repairs yourself, keep the older truck and upgrade as necessary. I dont believe in used vehicles that do not require work, but might be me.

In my short experience of 387 miles wth BPD air to oil/egr and hpop fitting upgrade, include the price of also completing the 7.3 fan clutch upgrade. In the vegas heat i see the oil slowly catch up and pass coolant temps, but no more than by 6 degrees, on a hot day with heavy traffic. Still within acceptable levels, but i assume when i start towing it will increase. Electric fan just hangs out at 400 rpm, frustrating as in the morning when truck is cooler i see the fan at 800rpm in traffic.
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