My cab off Head Gasket job. 05 f350 - Page 3 - Ford Powerstroke Diesel Forum
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post #21 of 32 Old 05-28-2019, 08:23 PM Thread Starter
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The glow plugs are fine and they're oem. They worked fine before I tore it down, they're going back in. The heads are probably gonna go get flattened and checked maybe even o rings if I can get it done at a decent price. This is a work truck. I don't race it. I haul trailers. It just needs to work and earn its keep or it'll get sold. No emotional attachment here.
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post #22 of 32 Old 05-29-2019, 07:31 AM
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I bought glow plugs on eBay, advertised as OEM. They came with no markings. 2 didn't work straight out of the box. Another failed after the 3rd test cycle before I put wheel well liners back. I replaced those with old working ones. Now less than 1,000 miles later #6 has failed. I bought another complete set from AutoNation that will go in when I do the oil cooler. I'm new to Powerstrokes as well and quickly learning to use oem stuff.
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post #23 of 32 Old 05-29-2019, 07:41 AM
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eBay can never be trusted, unless you are wrenching for practice and like to do things over and over.
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So says the internet... ...and so it shall be.
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OK, thanks for the info. To show my ignorance, what is the problem with 3 nipples...
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post #24 of 32 Old 05-29-2019, 01:01 PM
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eBay can never be trusted, unless you are wrenching for practice and like to do things over and over.
I don't buy anything new from eBay, I'd rather go direct you the manufacture or a primary distributor. Buying used stuff that I plan to rebuild on the other hand, eBay is my first stop, good deals to be had if you know how and what to look for. Great place for cores too.

People never have enough time/money to do the job right, but somehow they always find the time/money to do it twice

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post #25 of 32 Old 05-29-2019, 04:48 PM
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...This is a work truck. I don't race it. I haul trailers. It just needs to work and earn its keep or it'll get sold. No emotional attachment here.
How's that possible? Do you actually drive the 6.0? There's got to be an emotional attachment. It may be hate, but there's got to be one, otherwise you'd have already gotten rid of it. LOL

I'm driving a 2017 now, but I still consider my 6.0 to be my favorite truck of all time. I know/knew it inside an out in the almost five years I drove it. I still have visitation rights since my son is driving it now, but I definitely have an emotional attachment to the beast.

Don't get me wrong, the 6.7 is gaining ground on the 6.0 for favorite truck every day, but since I had less money in the 6.0 adding purchase price, upgrades, maintenance, fixes and fuel all together in those 5 years than just the purchase price of the 6.7, it's got a long way to go.
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post #26 of 32 Old 05-29-2019, 06:13 PM Thread Starter
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How's that possible? Do you actually drive the 6.0? There's got to be an emotional attachment. It may be hate, but there's got to be one, otherwise you'd have already gotten rid of it. LOL

I'm driving a 2017 now, but I still consider my 6.0 to be my favorite truck of all time. I know/knew it inside an out in the almost five years I drove it. I still have visitation rights since my son is driving it now, but I definitely have an emotional attachment to the beast.

Don't get me wrong, the 6.7 is gaining ground on the 6.0 for favorite truck every day, but since I had less money in the 6.0 adding purchase price, upgrades, maintenance, fixes and fuel all together in those 5 years than just the purchase price of the 6.7, it's got a long way to go.
LMAO. I guess you're right...
It's kinda like old yeller. He's costing you a fortune in vet bills but you just won't shoot him in the head because you got so much time, money and tears invested in him.
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post #27 of 32 Old 05-31-2019, 05:12 PM Thread Starter
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I got my heads off. Had a stuck injector in the cylinder head. The copper gasket must have been leaking and carbon fouled the bore. I think I'm just gonna get a new injector for it. I don't wanna find out it's bad after I put it all together. It sure looks bad!
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post #28 of 32 Old 06-05-2019, 04:23 PM Thread Starter
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My instructions say to torque the arp studs to 210 fllbs. They lowered the torque spec on the most recent ARP studs because of the ultra torque lube ,that comes with them, is supposed to be better and you lose less torsional friction as a result of using the more slippery lube, so they say. I'm on the side of going a little bit more. Mine are all at 210 right now. I'll probably go back around and hit them one more time at 225 ftlbs, because, why not! I didn't get any pics of the heads when they came back from the machine shop. There were no cracks any where on them and they only took off the bare minimum to clean them up. It turned out to be about .0015" or 11/2 thousandths. The shop that I brought them to has a big surface grinder that they do them on. He charged me $50 each to grind em. I went over them with a small 6x9 granite flat plate with some 220 sand paper on the bottom to just smoothe them out a bit and check the machine shops work, because thats what I do. They were nice. I also gave the block the granite plate treatment, first with 150 grit paper and then 220. The engine Block was also in good shape the raised areas were where the head bolts thread into the block those areas were rasied less than a thousandth. I got those areas down to flat to the area around the cylinder bores. That took me a while, about a couple of hours per side. I feel it was worth it. The valves and pistons and cylinder walls were all in great shape. This motor was not abused and never had a tune in it with the exception of the 50 HP tow tune that I ran in it once but took it off because The EGTs ran too high with it, so I got rid of it. And honestly, I think it ran better with the stock tune in it. @LoxDiesel , Thanks for your help so far.

Some pictures of the machinists granite flat plate that I used as sandpaper backer to flatten the block and smooth out the heads. A piece of spent sandpaper and a picture of the 220 sand paper I used. A picture of the genuine ARP studs as mentioned in another thread about the bootleg ones that are out there. I got mine on Amazon and they come directly from ARP. Then some pictures of the completed torqued down heads. It's time to get this puppy back together. I also did the stc fitting on the hpop , mine was fine, but while I'm in there.

This post might be a little jumbled because I had posted in the wrong spot, but you get the idea.
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Last edited by Xalky; 06-05-2019 at 04:30 PM. Reason: Add comments and pictures.
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post #29 of 32 Old 06-08-2019, 07:22 AM Thread Starter
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I got the cab back on this morning. Now I gotta hook up a ton of things to get it back up and running. Man, this was a big job! I just hope she starts right up and I didn't forget to do something correctly. I've been pretty methodical up until this point, but' there's a lot of stuff that can go wrong in this whole process. Say a little prayer for me...lol..seriously.
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post #30 of 32 Old 06-09-2019, 07:01 PM Thread Starter
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I finished it up last night,(Saturday night). Primed it up, started it. It stalled the first time, started it again, ran rough for a tad then it cleared up. Runs great now. I took it for a few short test drives last night after I flushed the coolant and topped off all the fluids. I didn't get to change the tranny fluid yet, that'll probably be next week. I drew a vacuum in the ac system last night, let it sit overnight, came back this morning and the vacuum was holding...no leaks. recharged the AC this morning. It takes roughly 4 12oz cans to get it nice and cold. I gave her a nice wash inside and out. I drove it for a 15 mile jaunt this morning to go buy some more freon. I'm taking her to work tomorrow morning, thats a 60 mile hike one way... so if she makes it without any issues I feel like I'll be home free to enjoy this mother once again. It actually went back together much easier than I thought it would. The old man still has a memory like a steel trap...lol. I spent a good part of the day today just going over the connectors and screw points making sure that I didn't overlook anything. I had to walk away from it a few times yesterday when I was putting it back together..those are the times when I come back to it and theres a possibility that I forgot to tighten something. I'm usually pretty good about not walking away from something until I'm at a logical cutoff point...

Anyway, the injectors all seem to be operating fine. I'm pretty sure that I had a small High pressure leak somewhere which is what prompted this tear down. That, and it's been needing head gaskets for awhile.. I think one of the dummy plugs or the standpipes had a leak which would cause my cutoff issue.I also installed a new OEM IPR , and STC fitting while I was in there, I think the coil in mine was getting tired and it would cutoff when the temperature in the engine bay would get too hot. I had changed the screen in the IPR about 2 yrs back. when i pulled out the IPR this time the screen was still intact and had very little debris in it, and thats after I did the oil cooler in it last year. It pays to be clean when doing any kind of work in the oil system. A vacuum cleaner is my friend.

If I had to do this job all over again, I wouldn't be so apprehensive about doing it. The boogie man I don't know is much scarier than the boogie man who's *** I just kicked. The truck runs smoother than it's ever been!

Oh and BTW. I reinstalled that crusty injector whose copper oring seal was leaking. Cleaned it up with a wire wheel, took it apart to check that the spool valve was free and reinstalled it. HaHa. Low budget, you know. I'm in this for right around $2000 and that's including e Cometic gaskets and belts and new wire harness for the glow plugs and fluids.
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Last edited by Xalky; 06-09-2019 at 07:07 PM.
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