Coolant Change updates? - Ford Powerstroke Diesel Forum
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post #1 of 26 Old 05-24-2019, 08:18 AM Thread Starter
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Coolant Change updates?

Like to double check, I did read up on it.

The stickies are helpful but hard to follow when they go off topic.

I'm needing a inline coolant filter, anything as good with less cost than the IPR? I'm seeing IPR's at $249. I'm not cheeping out just seeing if there is a better deal out there, the threads are a few years old on what I read about the IPR's

Coolant, Wow! from reading what I read here, I'm thinking going to the Rotella ELC at Tractor supply, still good for the 6.0? again thread was from 2017

Will a detergent clean be needed on mine and you still use the cascade?

Here is what I know on my truck for you guys with feed back

2006 2wd DRW 6.0 egr delete, new block/engine with 30,000 on it. But my coolant looks yellow and I'm not sure what brand is in there, probably the Ford brand which is why I'm wanting to change it to be safe.

So, is it a go all out flush with liquid cascade and use rotella and a IPR in line filter or is there some updated choices?
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post #2 of 26 Old 05-24-2019, 08:53 AM
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I just added a bypass filter from Powerstroke Enginuities and used the Delo ELC. I went Delo because it was easy to get and Cat EC1 compliant. 2006 6.0 4x4 SRW CCLB

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post #3 of 26 Old 05-24-2019, 08:55 AM
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Most folks will agree on the cat ELC. ELC is the keyword as I understand. Iíve done a lot of research lately on coolant filters, and IPR is the best commercially available. It still doesnít filter 100%-nothing does at the moment. Iíd run it, drain it, flush with distilled water a few times, then change the coolant.
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post #4 of 26 Old 05-24-2019, 09:08 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by twood71 View Post
Like to double check, I did read up on it.

The stickies are helpful but hard to follow when they go off topic.

I'm needing a inline coolant filter, anything as good with less cost than the IPR? I'm seeing IPR's at $249. I'm not cheeping out just seeing if there is a better deal out there, the threads are a few years old on what I read about the IPR's

Coolant, Wow! from reading what I read here, I'm thinking going to the Rotella ELC at Tractor supply, still good for the 6.0? again thread was from 2017

Will a detergent clean be needed on mine and you still use the cascade?

Here is what I know on my truck for you guys with feed back

2006 2wd DRW 6.0 egr delete, new block/engine with 30,000 on it. But my coolant looks yellow and I'm not sure what brand is in there, probably the Ford brand which is why I'm wanting to change it to be safe.

So, is it a go all out flush with liquid cascade and use rotella and a IPR in line filter or is there some updated choices?
What, if anything, are you trying to clean out of the coolant system with the detergent?

What are your coolant and oil temperature differentials?
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post #5 of 26 Old 05-24-2019, 09:18 AM
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ok...
my opinions on the flush
yes...flush it
cascade in my opinion is a rather specific tool for getting hard water deposits out and does an excellent job flushing out impurities
the biggest thing when getting away from the evil ford gold is get something that will remove the silicates and be prepared to swap the oil cooler if you do not have the ipr to back flush and get all that crap out.
ford keeps reducing the life span of the gold because it siply is not able to handle the heat stess placed on it by the egr cooler which if you can delete it sorry i dont remember your truck specs...
ther are guys who love the ford gold but the fact is navistar didnt build this motor to work on ford gold that just made ford more money sort term and almost killed them long term because of the warranty work it caused or helped cause
but bean counters are not exactly known for seeing the big picture now are they?
as to elc i ran zerex in mine for 5 years no troubles and it is the only cat rated coolant WITH silicates. switching to delo mostly for availability it can be found cheap at most any walmart where another 6.0 owner has not just switched and bought them out
or you can have them deliver it to your door step for free
ok back on track
flush with vc9 and restore then i do three distilled flushes until i get good clear water coming out then drain and top off with good elc CONCENTRATE lots of places carry 50/50 crap because they can charge less and people think they are getting a deal so make sure you are getting the concentrate or you will be too diluted
you probably already got that but..
if you think the po filled the radiator with basic tap water do a cascade flush after the vc9 and restore it really cant hurt. the worst thing you can do to a 6.0 is neglect oil cleanliness and neglect coolant cleanliness
i am sure i am going over board on stuff yohu know already but just incase...
read this
http://www.ficmrepair.com/pdf/Powers...Flush_v1-0.pdf

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post #6 of 26 Old 05-24-2019, 09:26 AM
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If you're deleted then the Motorcraft gold will work. The problems were related to high heat generated in the EGR system. If it is no longer viable then that coolant will work. Navastar speced the engine for commercial use with Cat ELC, that is true.

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post #7 of 26 Old 05-24-2019, 10:17 AM
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I flushed with ONLY distilled water because my oil cooler was fine. I had no "hardness precipitates" or silicates to deal with. It simplified things and has worked perfectly. I personally don't like harsh chemicals, especially like VC-9, unless absolutely necessary.

The Ford Gold has to be flushed every 40k miles. Why put up with that when you can get 200k miles and more for a change interval? Also, you can overheat the Ford Gold coolant if you unexpectedly have a leak and get the engine hot from a low coolant level. Also, it will react with combustion gas (if you develop a slight head gasket leak) and form solids. It does not play well with other coolants if you make a mistake and mix them. Lots of people use it and it does well for them, but it has to be watched and maintained. Just not worth it IMO.
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post #8 of 26 Old 05-24-2019, 10:19 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by twood71 View Post
Like to double check, I did read up on it.

The stickies are helpful but hard to follow when they go off topic.

I'm needing a inline coolant filter, anything as good with less cost than the IPR? I'm seeing IPR's at $249. I'm not cheeping out just seeing if there is a better deal out there, the threads are a few years old on what I read about the IPR's

Coolant, Wow! from reading what I read here, I'm thinking going to the Rotella ELC at Tractor supply, still good for the 6.0? again thread was from 2017

Will a detergent clean be needed on mine and you still use the cascade?

Here is what I know on my truck for you guys with feed back

2006 2wd DRW 6.0 egr delete, new block/engine with 30,000 on it. But my coolant looks yellow and I'm not sure what brand is in there, probably the Ford brand which is why I'm wanting to change it to be safe.

So, is it a go all out flush with liquid cascade and use rotella and a IPR in line filter or is there some updated choices?
If you're getting an IPR, then get the manifold as well, and get it before the flush. Reason being is it'll let you back flush your oil cooler at the same time. Just hook a piece of heater hose to the outlet on the manifold and the other end to the garden hose, a T with shop air is a bonus.
Liquid Cascade is as strong as anything I would use unless your system is full of rust. Cascade will clean out any sludge from the silicates in the gold coolant.
Another good idea is at least one Fumoto F108N or an EZ-108 with the L-001 nipple behind the starter so you only need to drop that once. I put them on both sides of the block since they make future flushes cleaner and less painful.
Cat, Rotella, Chevron/Texaco/Delo, and Texaco Havoline ELC are all good just look for the EC-1 spec, avoid Zerex if you want to stay away from silicates. Also a very good idea to put a label on the degas bottle so no one accidently mixes your coolant. Different formulas do not play well together, I'll attach the old matrix for reference and a pic of the backflush gizmo I made for my IPR coolant manifold. You need to get 4 gallons of concentrate and maybe 20 gallons of distilled water. When you're all done flushing with the garden hose do 3 or 4 fill N drains with the distilled then add 3 1/2 gallons of concentrate and top off with distilled, add 1/2 gal of distilled to the remaining 1/2 gal of concentrate and you'll have a full gallon of 50/50 left for top offs.
Another good thing to have but not mandatory is an airlift style tool that uses shop air to create a vacuum to fill your system. I found one on fleabay for $30-ish and I love it, just used it when I did my new oil cooler and again when I went back in to do the T-stat, didn't lose more than a drop and never needed burped. This is like the one I have https://www.amazon.com/Automotive-Ra...ateway&sr=8-23
Don't for get a new cap.

Back flush gizmo


Finally like @bismic said above since you're working on newer stuff, if your deltas are fine you can probably skip the drawn out flush/backflush procedure and do a number of fill N drains with distilled then add the new ELC. I'd do 4 or 5, draining with both block plugs open and lower rad hose off to be sure to get the old stuff out. Still get concentrate no matter what, because you can't get all the water out.

Happy flushing
Attached Files
File Type: pdf Coolants_matrix.pdf (79.3 KB, 13 views)
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Last edited by SparkyF250; 05-24-2019 at 10:25 AM.
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post #9 of 26 Old 05-24-2019, 10:31 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mohead1 View Post
If you're deleted then the Motorcraft gold will work. The problems were related to high heat generated in the EGR system. If it is no longer viable then that coolant will work. Navastar speced the engine for commercial use with Cat ELC, that is true.

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True? I did not know the gold actually became a problem from the egr, I was under the impression the Ford gold actually just was a crappy product.

Yes I'm egr deleted.
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post #10 of 26 Old 05-24-2019, 10:36 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by twood71 View Post
True? I did not know the gold actually became a problem from the egr, I was under the impression the Ford gold actually just was a crappy product.

Yes I'm egr deleted.
I would still get it out just because of the silicates, heat makes it form a goo that ends up in the oil cooler.

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2005 F250 CCSB KR 4x4 6.0 4" Flo-Pro,
Fox 2.0s, Toyo ATs, CTS2 Pro, Blue Spring, BPD 7.3 Fan Clutch, IPR Coolant Filter

2000 F350 SCLB Dually 4x4, 7.3 6 Speed Hydra, CTS2, S&B Air, 4'' SS Diamond Eye

2005 Explorer XLT 4x4 Mountaineer,
Toyo ATs, Wife's grocery getter

1993 F150 4x4, 302 5 speed, winter truck


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