Coolant Change updates? - Page 2 - Ford Powerstroke Diesel Forum
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post #11 of 26 Old 05-24-2019, 12:14 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SparkyF250 View Post
I would still get it out just because of the silicates, heat makes it form a goo that ends up in the oil cooler.
Yea thats still my plan, with only 30,000 on this engine deleted I wasn't sure on the cascade part. Best to get out the silicates tho I'm seeing.

Again My coolant color is yellow is why I'm not taking a chance with not knowing whats in it.

You gave me quit a bit info, i'm gonna step it together from there and price all this. Appreciate it.
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post #12 of 26 Old 05-24-2019, 04:34 PM
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Excessive heat in the coolers would break down the coolant. I have my coole=
rs and all of the EGR removed completely and run the Ford crap. Too much tr=
ouble to flush and clean and flush and clean and filter and change the filt=
er and clean some more...blah blah...i did add a filter...thats about it. D=
eleted at 45k miles, temp between oil and coolant at cruise is a delta of 5=
degrees (65 mph) and i am at 153k miles now....dont see an issue w needing=
to go through all that ****. I drain it and completely renew it every 2 yrs
for the last 8 yrs.....and test it too....all good

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post #13 of 26 Old 05-26-2019, 11:15 AM
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I think mine was in the neighborhood of $200 and I went full and complete chemical flush with Restore and Restore+. Ended up using around 40 gallons of distilled water. The first drain I pulled everything out, block plugs, thermostat, whole 9 yards. Put the Fumoto valves in the block and reassembled. The thermostat didn't go back in until I was completely done. If going this route get concentrate coolant and set aside 3 gallons of distilled water. After all of the flushes there will still be some water left in the system so put the coolant in first and then top off with water to get as close to that 50/50 ratio...DON'T FORGET TO CLOSE THE BLOCK DRAINS

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post #14 of 26 Old 05-26-2019, 10:29 PM Thread Starter
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These are the block drains you guys talk about, is the EZ 108 the one that goes behind the starter correct?

Double checking here, so one on each side of the block and these 2 are the ones I should get correct?
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post #15 of 26 Old 05-27-2019, 11:03 AM
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F-108N is what I used on both sides and just put some heavy duty tubing on them and ran them down to right by the sump of the oil pan and put a zip tie to keep them together. I'll see if I can get a pic later.
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Last edited by PowerSmoke07; 05-27-2019 at 01:03 PM.
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post #16 of 26 Old 05-27-2019, 05:26 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by PowerSmoke07 View Post
F-108N is what I used on both sides and just put some heavy duty tubing on them and ran them down to right by the sump of the oil pan and put a zip tie to keep them together. I'll see if I can get a pic later.
Yea that help, cant picture that


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post #17 of 26 Old 05-28-2019, 07:04 AM
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post #18 of 26 Old 05-28-2019, 08:14 AM
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Originally Posted by twood71 View Post
These are the block drains you guys talk about, is the EZ 108 the one that goes behind the starter correct?

Double checking here, so one on each side of the block and these 2 are the ones I should get correct?
I used the Fumotos on both sides with some 3/8 tubing. The EZ with the 90* nipple would prolly work better behind the starter. With those on & some tubing the only mess you'll make is pulling the lower radiator hose, I've never found a way to do that without spillage. Gotta say the 6.0 is better than the 2 piece hose on a 6.4, I've never been able to pull those apart without a coolant bath.

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post #19 of 26 Old 05-28-2019, 02:02 PM Thread Starter
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I'm considering 2 fumoto, one for driver block drain and one for the oil pan. Then the EZ behind the starter. Sounds like a plan.

They use dope pipe on threads?


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post #20 of 26 Old 05-30-2019, 09:48 AM Thread Starter
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It uses a O ring I see,
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