Pointers on Head gasket job - Page 5 - Ford Powerstroke Diesel Forum
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post #41 of 88 Old 05-08-2019, 04:13 PM Thread Starter
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Pointers on Head gasket job

Talked to Extreme Studs and the lube comes with the studs.



Truck is all apart and waiting for the new heads to arrive next week. I have some cleaning to do this weekend.



Parts I got for the job:



New connector for injector 8 (was broken)

New thermostat - genuine

All new pulley bearings - SKF

Fumoto oil valve

Fel-Pro head gaskets
SCH o’ringed heads
Extreme stud set

Mahle injector seal kit

Pushrod set - genuine

Updated standpipes - genuine

Alliant steel blade water pump

Fel-pro valve cover gasket (mine were very brittle)

Exhaust manifold gasket

Intake manifold gasket -genuine

Updated turbo lines - genuine



SuperStealth recommended to change the oil cooler but I can't get myself convinced to spend that money. Maybe soon it will clog and then I'll get in there again. It was not too bad getting that far into the engine actually.... So far my deltas have been great... Empty on the highway at 60mph it is literally 5 degrees. I have a bypass coolant filter that might help a bit too.

Same goes or injectors. I have 2 remanufactured and the stamp seems to indicate they were ramn in 2008. I'll probably need new ones soon, but will upgrade them all at once when I have problems. It is not that hard to get to them anyway.







Additional questions:

1- Since I have the FICM laying around I was thinking in getting an Atlas 40 installed. Who is a good vendor??

2- Is cleaning the spool valve on the injectors a good thing? It seems easy enough and makes a lot of sense to me. The truck runs a little rough for about 30 seconds after strart-up that I am convinced is stiction. Unless I hear horror stories I will do this, but.... What is the torque spec on the 4mm nut on the solenoids? One of them was actually missing but I found laying around.





Remaining pictures of head/block and passenger side gasket attached here and in the next several posts. I can't tell where gasket was blown....
























































Last edited by GusCO; 05-08-2019 at 04:34 PM.
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post #42 of 88 Old 05-08-2019, 06:13 PM
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From my perspective, it was a light amount in the common areas that the majority of people have problems with. The areas by the studs are fine, but the heads develop a natural crown in the center forming a cup, which results in three areas on the heads that leak. Or blow past the gaskets if you will due to reduced compressive forces.

Severely overheated heads from the examples I've seen online will blow out between the studs over the exhaust ports. And the center of the heads are bowed in the opposite direction, towards the block.
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post #43 of 88 Old 05-09-2019, 07:40 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks for collating the images! That's awesome!

Watching your videos I'm pretty sure you got a better shot than pretty much anyone at figuring this out!

Thanks for your time TooManyToys!
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post #44 of 88 Old 05-09-2019, 08:07 AM
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Check the new heads for flatness.

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Originally Posted by djmaguire View Post
So says the internet... ...and so it shall be.
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Originally Posted by G8orFord View Post
OK, thanks for the info. To show my ignorance, what is the problem with 3 nipples...
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post #45 of 88 Old 05-09-2019, 08:59 AM
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And please indicate what they are, width and length if you don't mind.

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post #46 of 88 Old 05-09-2019, 11:36 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GusCO View Post
SuperStealth recommended to change the oil cooler but I can't get myself convinced to spend that money. Maybe soon it will clog and then I'll get in there again. It was not too bad getting that far into the engine actually.... So far my deltas have been great... Empty on the highway at 60mph it is literally 5 degrees. I have a bypass coolant filter that might help a bit too.

Additional questions:

1- Since I have the FICM laying around I was thinking in getting an Atlas 40 installed. Who is a good vendor??

If you don't do the oil cooler relocate kit, at least switch to the IPR coolant filter with the manifold. This is far more effective at filtering your coolant than the bypass type coolant filters. Just be forewarned, don't be surprised if your oil cooler clogs fairly soon after getting the truck back together. It's shocking how much debris will come unsettled when replacing the heads.

While you're in there, put 2 fomoto valves in the block coolant plugs. It makes flushing the cooling system so much easier.

For the ficm, give Ed at ficmrepair.com a call. He'll ship the programmer to you. Then you can try out the different tunes. Once you find the one you want, ship the tuner back to him and keep the tune you like.

Certainly double check the heads for flatness and the o-ring protrusion. John is good but it's always a good idea to verify specs before installation.

Good luck, looks like you're doing a good job researching how to do this job the right way.

2005 F250 Harley Davidson CCSB
Southeast Cylinder Heads with O-Rings
A1 Technologies H-11 Head Studs
Fel-Pro Headgaskets
River City Diesel Pushrods
Bulletproof Diesel Oil Cooler Relocate Kit
Bulletproof Diesel Billet Water Pump
PowerMax Turbo with KC Turbo's Billet Wheel
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post #47 of 88 Old 05-10-2019, 09:23 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Heavy_GD View Post
Check the new heads for flatness.
Quote:
Originally Posted by TooManyToys View Post
And please indicate what they are, width and length if you don't mind.

Will do! I don't have a flat edge long enough for the length but will try to borrow one.

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Originally Posted by F250SuperStealth View Post
If you don't do the oil cooler relocate kit, at least switch to the IPR coolant filter with the manifold. This is far more effective at filtering your coolant than the bypass type coolant filters. Just be forewarned, don't be surprised if your oil cooler clogs fairly soon after getting the truck back together. It's shocking how much debris will come unsettled when replacing the heads.

While you're in there, put 2 fomoto valves in the block coolant plugs. It makes flushing the cooling system so much easier.

For the ficm, give Ed at ficmrepair.com a call. He'll ship the programmer to you. Then you can try out the different tunes. Once you find the one you want, ship the tuner back to him and keep the tune you like.

Certainly double check the heads for flatness and the o-ring protrusion. John is good but it's always a good idea to verify specs before installation.

Good luck, looks like you're doing a good job researching how to do this job the right way.

I'm having a hard time being convinced on the coolant filter either! Just too stubborn. lol

I'll definitely flush everything up before starting the engine for sure.

Thanks a lot for the tip on the programmer "rental" from Ed. I'll definitely give him a call, but only after I'm done with the truck then. The FICM there is reman. I gotta try to identify where from. It might have a tune already. I wouldn't be surprised.

Unfortunately SCH messed up my order and now they would be at least a couple weeks out. They say they have no cores at the moment. I'm talking to Charlie now. [Edit] Charlie is out of them as well..... [/Edit] I have talked to him before but he was out of stock also, maybe he's got some, otherwise will talk to UCF. [Edit] I put an order down at UCF, should be shipping mid next week. [/Edit]

It really sucks because I really wanted to put this together soon. I'm getting sick of seeing a dead truck on my driveway....

[Edit] I don't want to bad mouth John at SCH. I actually appreciated his honesty in that the order was messed up and unfortunately he has no cores to work from. He could well have tried to gain time and keep my order by lying to me. SCH really seems to be a great place but UCF is equally well liked and I need the truck running.

Last edited by GusCO; 05-10-2019 at 09:47 AM.
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post #48 of 88 Old 05-10-2019, 10:22 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TooManyToys View Post
From my perspective, it was a light amount in the common areas that the majority of people have problems with. The areas by the studs are fine, but the heads develop a natural crown in the center forming a cup, which results in three areas on the heads that leak. Or blow past the gaskets if you will due to reduced compressive forces.
In this case, would the higher clamping force of studs solve this problem? I can't really see how, unless the head transmits the clamping force to the transversal center of the head. Is this what happens?
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post #49 of 88 Old 05-10-2019, 10:55 AM
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From what I've played with so far there is an effect on the head flattening with clamping force, especially across the length of the head. Under the fastening points, it stays pretty consistent and there's pull up from the block at those points. All expected. I think there is an issue going on unrelated to the fasteners, and it's why Ford abandoned the need to check lengthwise, only across the width, and why thickness is so important. But I'm just speculating. I would expect o-rings are more of an answer then studs.

I look at failures from my R&D career. If Ford had a high warranty issue they assembled an engineering team to the issue. And it can include specialists from their Scientific Research Group. One of my directors used to be part of the group, with a materials Science Ph.D. And from a supplier's perspective, they get deep into your business with some damn impressive work.

But the fix and data may make it into a TSB, or not. It might just get adjusted through a part number. A friend of mine is a Ford FSE, and on brake info, even he never got any info on causation with major projects I worked on. As far as I can see, there are I believe 4 different part numbers to the 6.0 heads. The last one, the commonized head, has some changes stated in a TSB, particularly moving the injector fastener position away from the cooling jacket cracking location.

I worked in R&D; it's easy for me to go down rabbit holes.

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post #50 of 88 Old 05-10-2019, 02:31 PM
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Hey guys. Need some help on making a head decision. Just got the truck put back together with a kc stage 2 , 190/30's a 6.7 pump, and a odawg intake. Was studded back in 2013. My hg's are toast. Wanted to go with some o ringed heads, but don't know where to start. Saw a set of dk's for 1550 for both, but the ucf are over a grand more. Just dumped 5 g's on rhe build, now this! I think divorce papers will be next!
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