Advice for a diesel beginner? - Page 2 - Ford Powerstroke Diesel Forum
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post #11 of 16 Old 09-27-2018, 01:07 AM
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Originally Posted by _DieselFuelOnly_ View Post
As for all that process you just detailed, very interesting stuff but I'm by no means a mechanic and don't feel brave enough to do that, lol!
You either need to learn to work on these yourself, or have deep pockets when something happens.
We'll all help with the info, but you're the one that's gonna have to turn the wrenches. Don't be afraid, we'll walk you thru any problems step by step
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post #12 of 16 Old 09-27-2018, 04:44 AM Thread Starter
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Thank you sir I appreciate the assistance. I would prefer to take it to a mechanic for a lot of things but as I go I will learn to fix simple stuff and do regular maintenance on my own. The support and expertise here really is outstanding, you all are a very knowledgeable group!
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post #13 of 16 Old 09-27-2018, 05:14 AM
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The advice on doing many repairs on your own is given for several reasons:

1. the internet has most of the simple jobs well documented - many with pictures to make it even easier.
2. this forum and a few others have exceptional resources for troubleshooting and repair
3. some shops aren't all that knowledgeable or talented on the 6.0L (so you can get poor service or cheap parts)
4. some shops are marginally dishonest and some are extremely so. With the 6.0L reputation, they take advantage of you and do more work than is required.
5. Diesel mechanic labor is expensive

As far as having head studs or not, you can look to see if studs are present or if bolts are present (looking at the receipts isn't the only option). That said, sometimes "where the head studs were done" and "which machine shop did the heads" is as important as having the work done (importance of quality work).

So many videos are available with simple searches also!

If you can paint a truck, you can do the basic things suggested here. I wish I were talented enough to paint my truck!!

Last edited by bismic; 09-27-2018 at 05:30 AM.
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post #14 of 16 Old 09-27-2018, 07:54 AM Thread Starter
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Hah! I didn't paint the truck myself but we have own a collision repair shop (Autocolor of Wilmington) so we do painting as part of the work. Also yes it is difficult to trust many shops, especially with the 6.0. I know ARP Head studs are a popular option and from what I hear, a solid product. I think the owner said the truck was studded but he didn't mention the brand so yeah I will check to see beforehand.
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post #15 of 16 Old 09-28-2018, 05:03 AM Thread Starter
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I do have another question... I assume these vehicles are a little more maintenance-intensive than my 5.4, so do I have to do more than just change the oil on time? Also are there any recommendations for coolant/filters/oil and any other preventative maintenance products I should be looking at?
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post #16 of 16 Old 09-28-2018, 05:11 AM
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Filters - best to use Motorcraft or International or Racor (Racor is the manufacturer of the OEM oil and fuel filters).
Cheapest place to find OEM filters is DieselFiltersOnLine.com

The cheapest place to buy OEM parts that I have found is AutoNation White Bear Lake (Mn). I hear Sunrise Ford in California is a great place also. Sign up online and get great prices. They sell filters and fluids at great prices also. You just need to make sure you add in the shipping costs, they can be high sometimes (especially w/ fluids). I order filters in bulk for me and friends. Very cost effective.

Great service also. Mike @fordsvtparts works for them and is always helping us out!
https://parts.autonationfordwhitebearlake.com/

It is well worth it to use a synthetic oil. IMO a 5W40 works best, but lots of people like 10W30. Since your injectors are actuated with high pressure engine oil, the injectors tend to "stick" more often with 15W40 than with the 5W40 or 10W30. Ford calls this sticking problem "stiction". Lots of threads on it.

Oil changes - every 5K miles. You can probably get away w/ 7.5K miles w/ synthetic oil.
Fuel filter changes (both of them) - every 10k miles. You can probably get away w/ 15K miles, but the injectors don't like low pressure or being starved for fuel. Best to be conservative here IMO!!! Also - did I mention to get a fuel pressure gauge, lol!

Transmission fluid - use Mercon SP or Mercon LV only.

Transmission fluid - flush or "drain and re-fill" - every 30K miles. You need to look up the proper way to flush it or you won't get the old fluid out. If you don't want to flush it, then you can do a series of 3 or 4 drain and re-fills. Just drive it 15-20 miles after each refill and before the next drain to mix it all up. This is what I do and I have 206K miles on it and going strong.

Change the external transmission filter every 30K miles, no need to change the internal filter.

I change the differential fluids every 60K miles and the same for the transfer case fluid.

USE OEM for the air filter and change it when the "filter-minder" shows that you need to. You can go a long way on that filter. Up to 100K miles if the driving environment isn't very dirty.

Make sure that your oil filter cap is an OEM cap. Take a pic of it from the side and we can tell. If the cap height is over apprx 1", then it is an aftermarket cap and needs to be changed.

I flush my Brake fluid every 3 yrs also - it absorbs moisture.

I also installed a power steering fluid filter.

Also - make sure the coolant is an EC-1 rated ELC coolant. They can withstand the engine heat better (and do a few other things better also). With an Extended Life Coolant, you can go well over 100K miles between fluid changes.

The thing about coolant is that you should FIRST find out if your oil cooler is plugged (on the coolant side) before changing this fluid out. If it is plugged, you have to decide how you are going to address the cooler and how you are going to flush out the old coolant and the crud in the system. Chemical cleaning is an option, but many people have caused the plugging to be worse with harsh chemicals and they have had to install MULTIPLE new oil coolers. The cooling system holds 7 gallons, but you can only drain out about half of that and there are a lot or "low places" where solids and contaminants can hide.

You need to read up on coolant flushes and plugged oil coolers before you start in on the coolant maintenance. In an earlier post I mentioned looking at coolant and oil temperatures ..... it is to get information so that you can properly assess and address your coolant system and/or your oil cooler.
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Last edited by bismic; 09-28-2018 at 06:12 AM.
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