Someone please help (bad oil leak) - Ford Powerstroke Diesel Forum
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post #1 of 28 Old 09-06-2018, 03:45 PM Thread Starter
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Someone please help (bad oil leak)

I bought my truck about a month ago. First Ford, been a cummins man for 16 years. A week after I bought it, it started leaking oil from the top of the engine. I took it to the Ford dealer and was told it was an oil pressure switch. Oil was pouring out underneath the motor, I thought it was the main seal. I change the oil pressure switch with one from autozone (I know use ford parts) it lasted about 4 days. it started leaking again, on top of the motor in the valley. I then went to the Ford dealer and got a factory one. It lasted about 5 days. Now it started leaking while driving today, oil pressure guage was down to zero. I pulled over and looked at the pressure switch and sure enough it was covered in oil.
I am disabled so its very hard to get under the hood of my truck, so can ANYONE recommend where this damn thing can be leaking oil? 2 pressure switches in a week is too much of a coincidence.
A thousand thanks for the person who steers me in the right direction.
pictures would be a major plus!
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post #2 of 28 Old 09-06-2018, 06:13 PM
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Those pressure switches don't have long threads. There is an adapter plug that screws in deeper. Maybe that will help.

https://www.accuratediesel.com/6-0l-...r-adapter.html

Also, the sealing o-ring part # is 3C3Z-9C064-CA

The switch should only be torqued to 106 in/lbs of torque. DO NOT exceed that torque value.
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post #3 of 28 Old 09-06-2018, 06:35 PM
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That kit @bismic mentioned is a good next step if it's leaking from the switch.

My guess is you cleaned the valley really good and the leak started up a few days later because it took time to leak back down.

I have cleaned up oil leaks and fixed them to have them pop up in new places. Eventually, I'll add a UV dye to mine after cleaning really good to see where my leak is coming from. It's a lower half of the engine leak. Luckily, mine is a drop a day into a pan.
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post #4 of 28 Old 09-07-2018, 03:40 AM
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I just bought the adapter kit from accurate,it’s a nice fix.


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post #5 of 28 Old 09-07-2018, 03:54 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks for the info guys. I guess I'll order the adapter, but I wont have any transportation till it comes in. I'm wondering if the housing has a crack in it. 3 switches in a month is kinda suspect. I even thought of getting a nipple about 2 inches long and a union to attach the switch to an adapter. Im wondering if that would work. At least I could get my truck going today for Dr. Appointments. Any thoughts on this fix?? Please advise..........
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post #6 of 28 Old 09-07-2018, 04:06 AM
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Originally Posted by Dreamdrummr View Post
Thanks for the info guys. I guess I'll order the adapter, but I wont have any transportation till it comes in. I'm wondering if the housing has a crack in it. 3 switches in a month is kinda suspect. I even thought of getting a nipple about 2 inches long and a union to attach the switch to an adapter. Im wondering if that would work. At least I could get my truck going today for Dr. Appointments. Any thoughts on this fix?? Please advise..........
Does the sensor tighten up or is it stripped?


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post #7 of 28 Old 09-07-2018, 04:08 AM
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Be careful w/ installing fittings. The threads are 7/16-20. It is somewhat of an odd size. You wouldn't be the first one to crack the housing from trying to install an adapter that "looked like" it fit. It is also common to crack the housing from over-torquing. Only you can say if it is cracked, clean the area well and inspect it closely.

btw - you don't need that switch to run the engine. It ONLY goes to the gauge on the instrument panel.

Last edited by bismic; 09-07-2018 at 04:12 AM.
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post #8 of 28 Old 09-07-2018, 04:11 AM Thread Starter
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it tightens up nicely, but I didnt over tighten it. thank you for the fast response
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post #9 of 28 Old 09-07-2018, 04:14 AM
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Since you bought it used, someone else may have over-tightened it.
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post #10 of 28 Old 09-07-2018, 04:17 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bismic View Post
Be careful w/ installing fittings. The threads are 7/16-20. It is somewhat of an odd size. You wouldn't be the first one to crack the housing from trying to install an adapter that "looked like" it fit. It is also common to crack the housing from over-torquing. Only you can say if it is cracked, clean the area well and inspect it closely.

btw - you don't need that switch to run the engine. It ONLY goes to the gauge on the instrument panel.
The threads dont look cracked, I inspected them when I installed the 3rd switch. I thought about putting a plug in the hole, but with my luck, Ill lose oil pressure and not know it and b urn the engine up. What do yall think about using blue teflon tape on the threads. Bismic talked me out of the nipple idea, I damn sure dont want to crack the housing. thanks guys.
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