Someone please help (bad oil leak) - Page 3 - Ford Powerstroke Diesel Forum
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post #21 of 28 Old 09-07-2018, 02:45 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by G8orFord View Post
You either had manual transmissions, got rid of them before the tranny gave up or you have some of the best luck of anyone I know. Then again, you didn't say they never had a wrench on them, just that you didn't do it. LOL
no Im being honest. I had an 01 that I towed a 27 foot slide out and a 27 foot boat. I never hod rodded it and the only think=g I added is an edge juice. Transmission never gave me a second trouble. My wife had a seizure and wrapped it around a tree, My second was a 13 that ran like a clock until someone ran a red lite and totaled it.


A simple oil leak will not cause the engine to stall, unless it leaked so bad that all of the oil was gone from the engine. A bad oil pressure switch will not cause the engine to stall. The PCM nor any other vital system that keeps the engine running even knows that it there. Thus, the comment that you've "got more going on than just a leak". Without further data, I couldn't begin to guess what caused the stall.
I ordered a SCT X4 today and should be here monday. I talked to a ford mechanic and he told me that sometimes the needle bearings on the lifters come off and end up in the oil pump but when that happens, the pressure goes down not up. He mentioned something in front of the engine where the regulator is and to check it. he then said if the oil pump is damaged im looking at about 2 grand to fix.
Im on a fixed income and spent all my money on this truck. Has anyone else ever heard of such a thing? I'll stand on my head and spit quarters if it will help me out.

Thanks guys
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post #22 of 28 Old 09-07-2018, 04:10 PM
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Originally Posted by Dreamdrummr View Post
I ordered a SCT X4 today and should be here monday. I talked to a ford mechanic and he told me that sometimes the needle bearings on the lifters come off and end up in the oil pump but when that happens, the pressure goes down not up. He mentioned something in front of the engine where the regulator is and to check it. he then said if the oil pump is damaged im looking at about 2 grand to fix.
Im on a fixed income and spent all my money on this truck. Has anyone else ever heard of such a thing? I'll stand on my head and spit quarters if it will help me out.

Thanks guys
Unfortunately lifter needle bearing failure has happened. That does trash the gears in the LPOP and send trash downstream as well. The front cover will end up being scored, the LPOP regulator plugged and probably the HPOP damaged - AT A MINIMUM. Several folks have had even more extensive damage (cam shaft, injectors, etc) from it. Hopefully that is not your issue.

Start by inspecting the low pressure oil regulator, it is by the harmonic balancer.

Last edited by bismic; 09-08-2018 at 03:43 AM.
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post #23 of 28 Old 09-07-2018, 05:44 PM
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^^What he said.

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post #24 of 28 Old 09-07-2018, 08:20 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by G8orFord View Post
^^What he said.


I have another question. One that Ive been searching the answer for over 3 hours to no avail. Maybe Im looking in the wrong places.... I'm looking for a heavy duty oil pressure switch. on the low side, but one that can handle about 60-80 pounds without rupturing. Im thinking if I can find one, that should end my problems with pressure switches rupturing. I am going to crawl under the truck and check out regulator by the harmonic balancer, Im just scared Im going to screw something up and I dont have money to put the truck in the shop.
So if anyone knows where to get a heavy duty or a switch rated for higher pressure please PLEASE pass on the info to me.

Thanks!
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post #25 of 28 Old 09-07-2018, 09:48 PM
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I have never heard of anyone having the degree of problems that you are describing simply with that switch. And I certainly don't see why you are changing direction to needle bearings questions at this point. From your posts, you don't seem to have a poor running condition after changing the switch out (or even before), except for the sudden "shutdown while driving", which (as @G8orFord posted) is likely to be due to something else (and not lifter needle bearings). I mainly think this because in your posts you seem to indicate it can be started and run after the stall event. In part of your posts you seem to indicate that you suspect high oil pressure is ruining your oil switch, but w/ the engine dying and the needle nearing question you seem to be thinking that the oil pressure is actually low. If a lot of oil is leaking out, that would indicate that the oil pressure isn't actually low.

LPOP regulator removal requires a 12 mm hex bit
http://dan.prxy.org/Truck/6L_bible_h...ion_System.jpg
Easy to pull, hard to mess up anything.

The regulator opens up at 75 psig to send oil back to the crankcase. The LPOP is capable of 100 psig. I suspect the OEM oil pressure switch is capable of withstanding at least a little over 75 psig. People usually only have an issue with it leaking oil when it is bumped/damaged. I suppose the regulator could be stuck closed and you are getting full 100 psig. If so, repair or replace the regulator would be the best fix.

The "stealer", as you put it, should put a real gauge in the oil pressure test port to do proper troubleshooting and save you money in the long run. Pulling the regulator, would be worth the effort before taking it in though. If you can't easily get under the truck, maybe a friend or relative can for you? It isn't a hard or complicated task. You could also pull the FICM relay and crank it w/ the oil filter cap off to see how long it takes to fill the oil filter bowl. Have someone watch the bowl as you crank and be ready to stop cranking when it gets full. It normally takes 10-12 seconds to fill without the drain valve depressed. 5-6 seconds w/ the drain valve closed. Instead of pulling the FICM relay, you could just crank w/ the starter solenoid jumper wire that is available on the passenger side by the vacuum pump. The "yellow with light blue stripe" wire has a "twist and pull" connector that can allow you to jumper the solenoid to the passenger battery.

Best of luck w/ the search for a switch w/ a higher pressure rating.

Last edited by bismic; 09-08-2018 at 03:46 AM.
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post #26 of 28 Old 09-08-2018, 03:20 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bismic View Post
I have never heard of anyone having the degree of problems that you are describing simply with that switch. And I certainly don't see why you are changing direction to needle bearings questions at this point. From your posts, you don't seem to have a poor running condition after changing the switch out (or even before), except for the sudden stall, which (as @G8orFord posted) is likely to be due to something else (and not lifter needle bearings).

LPOP regulator removal requires a 12 mm hex bit
http://dan.prxy.org/Truck/6L_bible_h...ion_System.jpg
Easy to pull, hard to mess up anything.

The regulator opens up at 75 psig to send oil back to the crankcase. The LPOP is capable of 100 psig. I suspect the OEM oil pressure switch is capable of withstanding at least a little over 75 psig. People usually only have an issue with it leaking oil when it is bumped/damaged. I suppose the regulator could be stuck closed and you are getting full 100 psig. If so, repair or replace the regulator would be the best fix.

The "stealer" as you say should put a real gauge in the oil pressure test port to do proper troubleshooting and save you money in the long run.

Best of luck w/ the search for a switch w/ a higher pressure rating.
Bismic, thanks for your response. The reason I started thinking about the needle bearing is I spoke with a knowledgeable guy who said that the needle bearings sometimes fail on the lifters (or rockers I think he said) and the bearings can be lodged in the oil pump. He did say that when that happens, the majority of times, the oil pump puts out less pressure, but he thought maybe it could be over pressurizing also. in any fashion, my problem is Im getting too much pressure to my oil switch and oil is shooting through the plastic piece that the wire plugs into. This is the third time this has happened.
The truck runs excellent except the two times it died on me. starts up easily, idles great and has plenty of power.
Thank you for the link for the LPOP. As soon as it gets light Im going to go try to remove it and check it out. is it something that I can spray down with brake cleaner and clean it up or is it one of those things that is either good or bad?

Thank you for your useful info!
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post #27 of 28 Old 09-08-2018, 03:57 AM
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If a lifter has shed needle bearings, the "stuck regulator" wouldn't be the only indication of it.

After the regulator cartridge and spring is pulled, stuck a magnet down in there.

You can clean the cartridge and spring w/ brake clean. I typically prefer carb cleaner because brake clean seems to swell o-rings (or at least that is my perception).

I think I was adding a few things to my earlier post when you quoted me. There may be a little more info there if you want to re-read it.
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post #28 of 28 Old 09-08-2018, 05:39 AM
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I think your leak is just really bad luck with sensors. They are a known issue so it's not completely unrealistic to get three bad ones in short order. Get some brake clean or similar pressurized cleaner and clean up the sensor and area good, then have someone crank the truck while you watch (and preferably video) the sensor and you should be able to see exactly where the oil is coming from. It's probably coming out the top of the sensor, but possibly it is a thread or crack problem. I'd get the leak fixed and then delve in to the oil pressure problem, if there is one.

For your own sanity and information, you could pull the oil filter and hold down the drain back valve and see how quickly the filter housing fills while using the starter wire on the passenger fender to turn the motor over with the ignition off. Or, with two people, do the same but pull the FICM relay and use the key to turn the motor over.

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