I have never heard of anyone having the degree of problems that you are describing simply with that switch. And I certainly don't see why you are changing direction to needle bearings questions at this point. From your posts, you don't seem to have a poor running condition after changing the switch out (or even before), except for the sudden "shutdown while driving", which (as
posted) is likely to be due to something else (and not lifter needle bearings). I mainly think this because in your posts you seem to indicate it can be started and run after the stall event. In part of your posts you seem to indicate that you suspect high oil pressure is ruining your oil switch, but w/ the engine dying and the needle nearing question you seem to be thinking that the oil pressure is actually low. If a lot of oil is leaking out, that would indicate that the oil pressure isn't actually low.
LPOP regulator removal requires a 12 mm hex bit
Easy to pull, hard to mess up anything.
The regulator opens up at 75 psig to send oil back to the crankcase. The LPOP is capable of 100 psig. I suspect the OEM oil pressure switch is capable of withstanding at least a little over 75 psig. People usually only have an issue with it leaking oil when it is bumped/damaged. I suppose the regulator could be stuck closed and you are getting full 100 psig. If so, repair or replace the regulator would be the best fix.
The "stealer", as you put it, should put a real gauge in the oil pressure test port to do proper troubleshooting and save you money in the long run. Pulling the regulator, would be worth the effort before taking it in though. If you can't easily get under the truck, maybe a friend or relative can for you? It isn't a hard or complicated task. You could also pull the FICM relay and crank it w/ the oil filter cap off to see how long it takes to fill the oil filter bowl. Have someone watch the bowl as you crank and be ready to stop cranking when it gets full. It normally takes 10-12 seconds to fill without the drain valve depressed. 5-6 seconds w/ the drain valve closed. Instead of pulling the FICM relay, you could just crank w/ the starter solenoid jumper wire that is available on the passenger side by the vacuum pump. The "yellow with light blue stripe" wire has a "twist and pull" connector that can allow you to jumper the solenoid to the passenger battery.
Best of luck w/ the search for a switch w/ a higher pressure rating.