need to flush the coolant system - Ford Powerstroke Diesel Forum
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post #1 of 48 Old 07-29-2018, 06:17 PM Thread Starter
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Question need to flush the coolant system

Hey all, Just want to see what you all think. I've got an 05 6.0 that I need to flush the coolant system on. First is should I use the 2 from ford guess 1 gets the crap out and the other does something for the block, or can I use the prestone flush and cleaner? Second i'm going to use the poly organic coolant because it doesn't have the fall out regular coolant has. so i'm not sure if I would still need to have a coolant filter put on. Please explain why you answered how you did. -Thanks
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post #2 of 48 Old 07-29-2018, 06:49 PM
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You need to explain why you are doing the flush in the first place. Is it due to high oil temps? Has the oil cooler ruptured and the system contaminated? Is it just for fun? Are you planning to change the oil cooler afterwards?

Either way, the Prestone flush probably isn't going to do much.

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post #3 of 48 Old 07-29-2018, 08:25 PM Thread Starter
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I hear everyone talking about fall out with the coolant and plugging up the oil cooler so I wanted to get that out of my truck before it's a problem. It was changed around 85k idk if they did a flush or just a drain and fill. I just got her at 101k this is my first Diesel and want it to last as long as possible
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post #4 of 48 Old 07-30-2018, 05:25 AM
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You first need to determine the health of your oil cooler.

get a scan tool of some sort.

ScangaugeII works ok. Probably the most economical options are the phone apps.

I would either get ForScan for an i-phone (you will also need an ELM 327 WiFi adapter) or get Torque Pro for an Android (you will need an ELM327 Bluetooth adapter).

Get your engine FULLY up to operating temperature and read the coolant and the oil temps. Fully up to operating temperature will take around 20 minutes of driving and it is the point that the oil temp does not increase anymore with normal highway driving. The oil shoule not be more than 15 degrees hotter than the coolant (and 10 degrees is a better number IMO).

If the oil cooler is not plugged up, then you can change coolant by draining, THOROUGHLY flushing with distilled water, and then refilling w/ the 3.5 gallons of concentrated coolant. Use the pre-diluted coolant for topping off, but when you flush with distilled water, you need the concentrated stuff due to how much is held up (won't drain out) in the coolant system.

I certainly wouldn't flush with a Prestone chemical flush! Just wouldn't trust it.

As far as the coolant choice, please post a link to EXACTLY what you want to use. A Poly organic coolant is not sufficient information for me anyway.
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Last edited by bismic; 07-30-2018 at 05:41 AM.
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post #5 of 48 Old 07-30-2018, 06:07 AM Thread Starter
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Ok, I've got an edge cts monitoring system, so I'm covered their. . Idk how to link, but mishimoto chill and amsoil heavy-duty are both polyorganic. Thanks for the info I gotta make a run today and will let you know what my numbers are. So what do you use to flush out your radiator? Planning on using something to help flush everything regardless of the numbers. To me it doesn't make sense not to. It would be like taking a shower and not using soap cause your just a little dirty. Think I'm going to get a coolant and oil bypass filtering kit as well, it can't hurt until it breaks and leaves you stranded

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post #6 of 48 Old 07-30-2018, 09:02 AM
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If your system isn't dirty, why add harsh chemicals? Many people have clogged a perfectly good oil cooler by using the acidic flush chemicals.

When I changed coolant I just used distilled water.

I am at 205k miles and have had no oil cooler issues.

Your coolant system will always be a little dirty. It is not like it has to be perfectly clean because it never will be. If it is cooling fine, then chemical cleaning might just disturb areas that have stable corrosion films that were causing NO PROBLEMS. When these corrosion materials stick ion the oil cooler passageways, you will be spending quite a bit more money to fix that problem.

Now, if the coolant system has been abused (overheated, run on very low coolant concentrations, etc), that may warrant a flush.

If you just HAVE to use a flush chemical, I would ONLY use the FLEETGUARD RESTORE (do NOT the RESTORE plus or the VC-9).
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Last edited by bismic; 07-30-2018 at 09:12 AM.
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post #7 of 48 Old 07-30-2018, 09:12 AM
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Just remember that EVEN IF YOU REMOVE BOTH BLOCK DRAIN PLUGS AND THE LOWER RADIATOR HOSE, you will always leave about 2 gallons of liquid in the engine. If you flush with ONLY distilled water, then you will have 2 gallons of MOSTLY distilled water left in the engine. If you use a harsh chemical, some of that will remain in the engine. You NEVER can get it all out. Doesn't sound good for the shower analogy does it?

You must take that into account when you recharge the system. This is why you just use the concentrate after doing a flush.
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Last edited by bismic; 07-30-2018 at 10:06 AM.
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post #8 of 48 Old 07-30-2018, 10:04 AM
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Mishimoto's "Chill" claims to seal pin-hole leaks.

https://www.mishimoto.com/liquid-chi...-mix-64oz.html

I am not sure I like that aspect.

I am curious - why would you want to go with a Propylene Glycol when so many people have had great luck with the Diesel rated (CAT EC-1) ELC Ethylene Glycol coolants?

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post #9 of 48 Old 07-30-2018, 10:45 AM Thread Starter
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Yeah I saw that about the chill after i posted so I will probably go with the amsoil heavy-duty. I want to go that route because of the sediment fallout the regular coolant has from what I can tell that's a big problem plugging up oil coolers too. My oil stayed around 190-204 coolant went from 180-200. That is running 75 mph with overdrive off and nothing on the hitch with a couple decent hills.on flat ground they were both about 190-195. I guess I will have to see what the coolant looks like when I drain it. Was also going to back flush the heater core and cooler

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post #10 of 48 Old 07-30-2018, 10:52 AM
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Ford Gold / Zerex G-05 can have silicate fallout. The ELC's (CAT EC-1 compatible) that we generally recommend here do not have that problem and are what IH recommended for the engine when they built it.
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