FICMrepair 230A alternator & full wiring kit layout? - Ford Powerstroke Diesel Forum
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post #1 of 27 Old 06-17-2018, 07:57 AM Thread Starter
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FICMrepair 230A alternator & full wiring kit layout?

I bought a LN230A alternator from FICMrepair along with the complete wiring kit. I've thoroughly read the instructions, and all I could think was, "Would it kill you to add some pictures for dummies like me?"

Has anybody done this? Could you share me some photos?

Also, I guess I have to drill out the ring terminals to fit the alternator positive and negative terminals?

And is there really any value in keeping the old battery to battery positive cable and terminals, other than cheapness? Because the wire supplied in the kit is already overspec'd for the maximum theoretical current draw of the vehicle, with all devices on and the starter turning.
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post #2 of 27 Old 06-17-2018, 09:30 AM
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yes to keeping the stock wires what you are doing is adding a redundancy.
@TooManyToys has a couple great and infprmative videos on you tube for doing this
also i have not used eds kit but i would assume it came with the proper size ring connectors.
i bought wires off ebay pre made and it was very easy.
there are also a coule threads on here someplace i believe but i neccver seem to have much lick with the search feature but i will try to give it a shot...
you may well beat me to it my internet is legendary for how useless it is especially on weekends

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post #3 of 27 Old 06-17-2018, 09:50 AM
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redundancy is not concerned about the maximum capacity of a single cable

it's about having a second path 'just in case "

also, the pass bat to the alternator is reported to have a hidden splice in the loom that feeds critical components so at least leave that one and piggy back it with the upgrade
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post #4 of 27 Old 06-17-2018, 09:54 AM
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if the OEM was such crap it would be on everyone list to get rid of but in reality, it is just fine

the real weak point is the ALT to Pass battery and only if you have a High demand and an alternator capable of supplying the AMPS

while FICM repair is a top notch company I agree, I would / did and so did @mhatlen and others prefer to make my own cable kit and dictate my own routing

( i added my redundant Alt to Battery cable to the driver's battery )
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post #5 of 27 Old 06-17-2018, 10:31 AM
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Originally Posted by ZMANN View Post
if the OEM was such crap it would be on everyone list to get rid of but in reality, it is just fine

the real weak point is the ALT to Pass battery and only if you have a High demand and an alternator capable of supplying the AMPS

while FICM repair is a top notch company I agree, I would / did and so did @mhatlen and others prefer to make my own cable kit and dictate my own routing

( i added my redundant Alt to Battery cable to the driver's battery )

true...
and the weakest spot is the tie between grounds from pass to drivers side.
i have not finished palying around but will be running a redundent
( sorry i just had to)
ground tie in from both batteries to the starter ground not that the block isnt fine for the ground i just like over kill engineering...done...you know in my spare time
because i like to do my own stuff too.
plus it cost me under a hundred bucks to run zero gauge monster cable and loom it as opposed to paying someone else to do a little math
and running a 250 amp alt ... i figure a little extra zero gauge for the possative cross over cant hurt to be sure and hence the one and zero gauge grounds...too much is never enough

Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike in Cornville View Post
Hey, I am really sorry if I sound argumentative. I don't mean to be.

Truth is I am frustrated after all this time and work to find out that the battery cable kit is not what I expected. I should have opened everything the day I got it, nearly two months ago, and examined it then.

In any case, my apologies.
no worries to me yohu sounded like a guy who has had hie truck down for a couple months...
took me about that long to get mine to fire for the first time too so i totally get it

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Last edited by john galt; 06-17-2018 at 10:36 AM.
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post #6 of 27 Old 06-17-2018, 10:58 AM
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Quote:
Truth is I am frustrated
no worries Mike, I could tell and understand

you probably know most of this but

I have not seen anyone disappointed with the kit, your choices make it work , sell it and make your own , or talk to FICM,repair about a refund and make your own

you could run a 1000 Amp alternator without a wiring upgrade unless you actually have the demand the supply side won't care if you have small wires

so you have plenty of time to tackle this later

oh and take a break ;-)
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post #7 of 27 Old 06-17-2018, 11:02 AM
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those kicker or similar parts work well if like you mentioned you solder the wires but you also need to have fuses at that location also IMO

i like the Blue sea circuit breakers

IMO if this system was really set up well the batteries would disconnect when the truck was off to keep the weakest battery from trying to equalize

an ACR is a great add to this system IMO

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post #8 of 27 Old 06-17-2018, 11:05 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike in Cornville View Post
It's a joke for redundancy - true redundancy is full failover capacity, not one superior path to the other, and redundant systems are in standby, not run with a parasitic current, like that would be.

I am not going to remove the factory harness, or not connect the alt terminal, I just want the battery connection and ground problem fixed that's evident just looking at it.

I am thinking about two pairs of these, with some solder on rod end connectors.

I think Wes @darkpassenger used those back in his 6.0 days. I seem to recall he really liked them.
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post #9 of 27 Old 06-17-2018, 11:38 AM
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I think Wes @darkpassenger used those back in his 6.0 days. I seem to recall he really liked them.
you are correct.
and i am waiting on a set myself to finish off my ground and charge mods

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post #10 of 27 Old 06-17-2018, 12:18 PM
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IMO, the most critical cable to update is the one that currently doesn't exist, and that's the passenger side battery ground to the alternator bolt (or engine in general). The next would be "+" to "+" upgrade between the two batteries. I left the OEM cable in place because "why not?". This is all I've done so far myself and my 185 amp is doing just fine. One day I'll get around to the upgraded charging leads to the alternator, but I'm in no hurry since I have no high draw items anyway.
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