Head studs one at a time on 57K engine? - Ford Powerstroke Diesel Forum
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post #1 of 43 Old 05-21-2018, 08:43 AM Thread Starter
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Head studs one at a time on 57K engine?

I am strongly considering doing head studs one at a time on my vehicle. It's got original 57K miles, no head gasket issues. I've torn up so much to do the BPD remote oil cooler that I figured I would install a few other upgrades while it's down, like the BPD billet water pump. And of course - probably the second biggest issue following the oil cooler, put in head studs.

I am in a pretty remote part of AZ and there no powerstroke machine shops within 100 miles.

So my options (it seems to me):

1. Just do the studs one at a time.
Following the torque order, pull TTY bolt, put in stud, torque to current torque. When they're all done on one side, go back around and snug them up to the recommended torque.

2. I pull the heads, clean them myself.
I can use a gauge and follow the manual to see if they're still true, or need resurfacing. Clean it as well as possible (a good simple green bath with brushing, then nice warm rinse, and air hose them dry). I inspect all the components, look for any visible cracks, like between injectors and glow plugs, and if they look good, after cleaning the block I put on a set of Felpro gaskets, put the heads on and stud them.

3. Just leave em. Wait for it to blow if it ever does. It's a 2003 motor (june 2003 build 2004 model). It might not have a problem. Ever.

This is a dedicated horse hauler.

Advice?
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post #2 of 43 Old 05-21-2018, 08:51 AM
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either leave it alone or do it properly

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post #3 of 43 Old 05-21-2018, 09:03 AM Thread Starter
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When a saint tells you, ya gotta listen.
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post #4 of 43 Old 05-21-2018, 09:26 AM
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all or not.

02 joke

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I just bought an 05 powerstroke 6.0.

Any tips on what should be changed/checked other than oil change??
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Everything
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post #5 of 43 Old 05-21-2018, 09:35 AM
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The only good thing about one at a time is that its good practice for when you have to pull the heads.

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So says the internet... ...and so it shall be.
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OK, thanks for the info. To show my ignorance, what is the problem with 3 nipples...
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post #6 of 43 Old 05-21-2018, 10:04 AM
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post #7 of 43 Old 05-21-2018, 10:20 AM
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i am seriously contemplating buying those
The Official ARP Web Site | Kits

6.0 flush pdf
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post #8 of 43 Old 05-21-2018, 10:23 AM
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if i did one at a time

i would remove one and bring the new ARP up to the torque spec of the old TTY ( you would need to set a guesstimate or check one of the installed ones since the TTY has you do some 90* turns as a final and not a torque spec) then i would run up to the ARP spec in a few increments using the pattern
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6.0 flush pdf
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post #9 of 43 Old 05-21-2018, 10:46 AM
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I have heard of it being done with success. Then again you may have a mildly compromised head gasket that doesn't show any symptoms, then you disturb it by loosening the OEM fastener then clamp it down with way more force and now you have an issue. That would suck.

I have been into the engine more times than I want to admit and no matter which way you slice it, it kinda sucks after a while


I personally wouldn't do it but good luck if you do. Like mentioned before, do it correctly or just wait until you really need to do it....then do it properly.


Good Luck

2004/Kill Devil O-ringed heads/Studs(finally)/Warren 175-30's/ADII/KC StageII/BPD everything/ODAWG S2R Ported Intake/CX racing IC/Gearhead Tunes/WPE RR...........FINALLY DONE and (still) NO LEAKS!
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post #10 of 43 Old 05-21-2018, 01:55 PM
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Quote:
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i am seriously contemplating buying those
The Official ARP Web Site | Kits
thems the ones to get
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