Putting 6.7 starter on 6.0 - Page 4 - Ford Powerstroke Diesel Forum
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post #31 of 50 Old 11-14-2017, 08:27 AM
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All I know is the stock alternator was pathetic on my trucks. The batteries were never juiced up like they were after I upgraded alternators. The OEM 110 amp is sadly under powered for these trucks and 70 amps is probably more like what the output was. The glow cycle mauls the batteries on these things.

I have run AGM batteries mainly because they do better dealing with the glow plug draw etc. A 140 amp alternator that puts out 140 amps would be a huge upgrade over stock. Bigger is better if there are shorter runs or lighting or stereo equipment etc ha haa
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post #32 of 50 Old 10-29-2019, 09:28 PM
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Old thread but I recently did this and it was a worth while upgrade.

I found a salvage 2018 w/ 40k online for $62 shipped. It looked nearly brand new when it arrived so yeah for me.

There is one, the lower bolt that needs to be changed. Use a 8mm-1.25x45 I used Fastenal # 1138620, .54 cents.
I also got a hi-alloy grade 8 split washer and grade 8 washer due to the sleeve. The 8mm barely has any of the bolt head making contact w/ the bellhousing thus the need for the washer. Also 2 of the 3 bolts were loose when I pulled the old housing so I wanted piece of mind w/ the split washer. I did use blue loc-tite on the new bolts just in case.

I did have to get a sleeve from Ace hardware, a steel spacer 5/16 ID - .469 OD x 1inch.
The rest is self explanatory for install.

Results, awesome. It has a similar sound to the crank of the 6.4. The speed is noticeably faster and even the wife noticed it. A well while cheap and easy upgrade. Some may say don't bother but in a cold climate the faster the motor is turning, IMHO opinion the faster the oil pressure and HPOP pressure is up to par and that results in faster start times=less battery drain. So far so good here.
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post #33 of 50 Old 10-30-2019, 10:58 AM
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Very interesting read. Great info.
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post #34 of 50 Old 10-30-2019, 03:13 PM
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Whether the total watt-minutes is less with a faster spinning starter is debatable, the increase in surge or inrush current, and the higher current demand while spinning brings the battery voltage drop lower by about 0.2v. It's worse with older batteries with less life.

So to be in the safe zone those of us who will be starting during cold winter months will be changing out the batteries sooner. It may just be a month or three, but the depth of discharge is still a factor with the higher energy over seconds.

Running amps - Stock 6.0 starter ~380 amps; 6.4/6.7/Mean Green starter ~500 amps.

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post #35 of 50 Old 10-30-2019, 04:41 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GingerKing6.0 View Post
Very interesting read. Great info.
Hope it helps. I added the pics and specifics to make it easier.

Quote:
Originally Posted by TooManyToys View Post
Whether the total watt-minutes is less with a faster spinning starter is debatable, the increase in surge or inrush current, and the higher current demand while spinning brings the battery voltage drop lower by about 0.2v. It's worse with older batteries with less life.

So to be in the safe zone those of us who will be starting during cold winter months will be changing out the batteries sooner. It may just be a month or three, but the depth of discharge is still a factor with the higher energy over seconds.

Running amps - Stock 6.0 starter ~380 amps; 6.4/6.7/Mean Green starter ~500 amps.
I guess the only way to find out would be to do X number of starts under the same conditions and time it to the sec then do the math. I also figure if it starts faster, the alternator is running sooner. Whether or not I'm correct in my theory is irrelevant I guess.

At the end of the day it does start a lot sooner. Ive had a few times were the turns are sluggish even w/ batteries at 13v so I am replacing an older starter and it sounds kinda cool now w/ the better starter

On edit... Fwiw, its also the best low buck upgrade I've done so far that I saw instant results.


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post #36 of 50 Old 10-30-2019, 07:22 PM
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Other than the another yr warranty are there any comparisons or opinions on which is better between Mean Green and Mahle?

k

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post #37 of 50 Old 10-31-2019, 04:49 AM
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Be aware that the Mean Green does not have the characteristics or design that they attribute it has, weight and appearance.

Jack
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post #38 of 50 Old 10-31-2019, 04:55 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by powerlifter405 View Post
Hope it helps. I added the pics and specifics to make it easier.



I guess the only way to find out would be to do X number of starts under the same conditions and time it to the sec then do the math. I also figure if it starts faster, the alternator is running sooner. Whether or not I'm correct in my theory is irrelevant I guess.

At the end of the day it does start a lot sooner. Ive had a few times were the turns are sluggish even w/ batteries at 13v so I am replacing an older starter and it sounds kinda cool now w/ the better starter

On edit... Fwiw, its also the best low buck upgrade I've done so far that I saw instant results.

If your crazy enough to do that.

And if your crazy enough to have gotten others crazy enough to do it as well (attached thumbnail).

Note, under all circumstances, these trials were done with the batteries fully charged, and once off the overnight charging, voltages drop more.

Chris, with his Mean Green, sent it back as once off the charger he was dropping into the 9's for starting voltage, but may be influenced by his batteries although they were tested to be "OK".


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post #39 of 50 Old 10-31-2019, 09:33 PM
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Quote:
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If your crazy enough to do that.

And if your crazy enough to have gotten others crazy enough to do it as well .

Note, under all circumstances, these trials were done with the batteries fully charged, and once off the overnight charging, voltages drop more.

Chris, with his Mean Green, sent it back as once off the charger he was dropping into the 9's for starting voltage, but may be influenced by his batteries although they were tested to be "OK".
I'm definitely not and I hope others aren't either. Realistically it's unnecessary wear and tear on multiple components. BUT more importantly, I'd argue to do any measurements under real world conditions. Not w/ daily fully charged batteries but after a truck has sat for a week or so unplugged and it's 10* at night and only 40 during the day. No battery charger no block heater. If I drive to work, the store or anywhere else the truck is unplugged.

I could do a measure of battery volts and whatever else I can conjure up. Then I think we can take into account, IF there is a significant negative affect, it would be more noticeable under those conditions. Your measurements say there is a larger drop in voltage but I wonder how it will affect the truck. With healthy batteries and alternator i'd say at the moment, it's worth the risk.

Fwiw, even w/ 13.6v and on a battery charger sometimes my old starter was sluggish. I had more than 1 time in the winter, unplugged that It took 2 cranks to start. The glow plugs and wires are all new, less than 10k so I'm confident on those.

How many amps will each bank on the glow plugs use? I should check that as well.

AND, you do electronics well, that being the case.... since the alternators on these trucks seem to take several secs to ignite and only to 13ish volts, how would you change out to an instant on voltage regulator at 14+ volts? The parts are out there but will they fit on our factory alts?

Would something like this work?? https://store.alternatorparts.com/partnof600.aspx
No soft start, so it should be instant ignition like it is on my suburban and durango? Straight to 14.5 volts would be the goal.


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post #40 of 50 Old 11-01-2019, 01:25 AM
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There are different avenues to set up a test procedure. If you do "real world" you start to introduce a lot of variables and therefore need to provide more data. The tests I did and promoted minimize the variable and test needs, the wear you propose but in reality are a minimum of starts compared to what the components see in their lifetime. The entire routine took a week's worth of starter applications for me.

If you want to see what the glow plugs do, or that the alternators are not soft start and the impact of the other loads, then you could look at some of my videos about alternators. Or do you own work if it's not too hard on your truck?

The voltage drop is during the starting event, well before the alternator gets up to speed to generate any significant power, regulator or not. And if you did design the alternator to generate significant power at 200rpm, it's power would be coming from the starter, demanding even higher current.

I'm not telling you not to put on a faster starter, I'm just telling you there are consequences.

Jack
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Last edited by TooManyToys; 11-01-2019 at 05:07 AM.
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