FICM Delete, HPOP Delete, Glow Plug Delete, VGT Delete, Common Rail Conversion - Page 10 - Ford Powerstroke Diesel Forum
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post #91 of 118 Old 06-20-2018, 02:23 PM Thread Starter
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I decided to lower the engine the most I could if it requires a custom fan shroud I'll cross that bridge later. In the process of moving the engine around trying to get it to sit level and as low as possible I ended up dragging it. I realized it just when I thought it was perfect, I pulled the engine back more than I think it was before but I ave a lot more room between the valve cover and firewall. On the upside I don't think I'm going to have to cut the crossmember for the AC lines to clear.



I've been thinking about batteries and now is the perfect time to switch to a different size but I'm not sure if I should or not, here are the sizes I'm debating 2x group 65s, 2x group 34s, 1 group 31, 1 group 4D, 1 group 4DLT, 1 group 8D. I'm kinda leaning away from the commercial sizes but there cheaper so I included them. Next questions are do you think theirs any benefit to putting the batteries in a box and if I go with a dual setup should I isolate one?


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E̶a̶r̶l̶y̶ ̶2̶0̶0̶3̶ ̶6̶.̶0̶ ̶E̶x̶c̶u̶r̶s̶i̶o̶n̶ ̶f̶u̶l̶l̶y̶ ̶b̶u̶l̶l̶e̶t̶p̶r̶o̶o̶f̶e̶d̶,̶ ̶1̶5̶5̶/̶3̶0̶ ̶i̶n̶j̶e̶c̶t̶o̶r̶s̶,̶ ̶K̶C̶ ̶S̶t̶a̶g̶e̶ ̶2̶,̶ ̶a̶n̶d̶ ̶a̶ ̶l̶o̶t̶ ̶o̶f̶ ̶o̶t̶h̶e̶r̶ ̶s̶t̶u̶f̶f̶.̶ Cummins swap in progress. Thanks to everyone on the forum I have learned a lot.
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post #92 of 118 Old 09-17-2018, 02:30 PM Thread Starter
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I know it's been awhile since I last posted but that's because 1 everything else is breaking, 2 I've been going in circles, and 3 I've been lazy.

Does anyone know what the piece of metal on the bottom of the frame protruding inward between the engine and radiator is for? I'm looking for a place to mount my oil filter and between the radiator and ac compressor looks like the best place right now.



I'm also building a battery tray and just because the base is made out of 3/8" steel doesn't make it overkill. I'll get some pictures of it mounted in the truck soon.





Anybody have some suggestions on where to mount the Cummins ECM I'm currently thinking on top of the frame next to the steering linkage. I can't use the factory mount on the block because the engine mounts are in the way, on top of the engine mounts will put it below the fuel filters so I don't really like that spot, there's not room in front or behind the battery tray, it might fit on the side of the battery tray but then the wires will run over the boost tube and I don't think I'll like the way it'll end up looking.


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E̶a̶r̶l̶y̶ ̶2̶0̶0̶3̶ ̶6̶.̶0̶ ̶E̶x̶c̶u̶r̶s̶i̶o̶n̶ ̶f̶u̶l̶l̶y̶ ̶b̶u̶l̶l̶e̶t̶p̶r̶o̶o̶f̶e̶d̶,̶ ̶1̶5̶5̶/̶3̶0̶ ̶i̶n̶j̶e̶c̶t̶o̶r̶s̶,̶ ̶K̶C̶ ̶S̶t̶a̶g̶e̶ ̶2̶,̶ ̶a̶n̶d̶ ̶a̶ ̶l̶o̶t̶ ̶o̶f̶ ̶o̶t̶h̶e̶r̶ ̶s̶t̶u̶f̶f̶.̶ Cummins swap in progress. Thanks to everyone on the forum I have learned a lot.
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post #93 of 118 Old 09-18-2018, 02:47 PM Thread Starter
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I was told the metal tab is for the anti-sway bar for the 2wds and 05+ coils, so that location for the oil filter is out. Now I'm thinking maybe between the starter and the cross member if that location doesn't work I'll probably put it up front behind the bumper like BPD does.

Here's a couple more pictures of the battery tray





This is where I'm thinking of putting the Cummins ECM



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E̶a̶r̶l̶y̶ ̶2̶0̶0̶3̶ ̶6̶.̶0̶ ̶E̶x̶c̶u̶r̶s̶i̶o̶n̶ ̶f̶u̶l̶l̶y̶ ̶b̶u̶l̶l̶e̶t̶p̶r̶o̶o̶f̶e̶d̶,̶ ̶1̶5̶5̶/̶3̶0̶ ̶i̶n̶j̶e̶c̶t̶o̶r̶s̶,̶ ̶K̶C̶ ̶S̶t̶a̶g̶e̶ ̶2̶,̶ ̶a̶n̶d̶ ̶a̶ ̶l̶o̶t̶ ̶o̶f̶ ̶o̶t̶h̶e̶r̶ ̶s̶t̶u̶f̶f̶.̶ Cummins swap in progress. Thanks to everyone on the forum I have learned a lot.
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post #94 of 118 Old 09-18-2018, 03:42 PM
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Talk to Bulletproof Diesel about their oil filter mounts. They have a bracket/skid plate that mounts to the driver frame rail, and another that mounts in the front bumper. Both are horizontal and protected.

2010 F250 Lariat FX4 6.4l
Carli Backcountry 2.5", 11+ Leaf Springs, Tyrant Tuned, Edge Insight CTS, RCD EGR Delete/Elbow/Cold Side, H&S S364SXE Single, BPD Full Oil Cooler/Filter Relocate, FASS Pump
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post #95 of 118 Old 09-18-2018, 07:19 PM Thread Starter
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Talk to Bulletproof Diesel about their oil filter mounts. They have a bracket/skid plate that mounts to the driver frame rail, and another that mounts in the front bumper. Both are horizontal and protected.
I have BPDs HD air to oil cooler with the spin on filter and have debated installing it on the 5.9 but if I do I will need new lines because of the differences in the engines. Also the oil filter/ports on the Cummins are on the passenger side so I really want to keep it on that side so the lines are as short as possible, if I do place it on the outside of the frame I'll fab up a shield for it.


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E̶a̶r̶l̶y̶ ̶2̶0̶0̶3̶ ̶6̶.̶0̶ ̶E̶x̶c̶u̶r̶s̶i̶o̶n̶ ̶f̶u̶l̶l̶y̶ ̶b̶u̶l̶l̶e̶t̶p̶r̶o̶o̶f̶e̶d̶,̶ ̶1̶5̶5̶/̶3̶0̶ ̶i̶n̶j̶e̶c̶t̶o̶r̶s̶,̶ ̶K̶C̶ ̶S̶t̶a̶g̶e̶ ̶2̶,̶ ̶a̶n̶d̶ ̶a̶ ̶l̶o̶t̶ ̶o̶f̶ ̶o̶t̶h̶e̶r̶ ̶s̶t̶u̶f̶f̶.̶ Cummins swap in progress. Thanks to everyone on the forum I have learned a lot.
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post #96 of 118 Old 10-23-2018, 02:51 PM Thread Starter
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Progress has slowed to a crawl…but has not stopped. To be honest, it still seems like this project in one aspect or another, is consuming most of our weekends, so the lack of visible progress is really taking its toll on our ambition to push through what has become a project gridlock. In retrospect, although somewhat counterintuitive, it probably would have been easier to have performed this swap using as much as possible from the Dodge, then going back and making further upgrades. When looking at the engine and tranny sitting in an open frame, it is really difficult to visualize how everything will need to mesh together in order to fit. Of course, it would also be quite helpful to have a completed vehicle to refer to, because just looking at pictures from other forums doesn’t always depict how tightly things must fit.
Now that we are working within the confines of an engine bay and what is left to do is pretty much custom, we really wish we would have been able to make the bracketry needed to hold everything in place before dropping the cab back on the frame.

We didn’t find any other blogs that showed the ECM mounted in a place that we liked, and because of the motor mounts that we used, the OEM spot was not an option. Fortunately, there are a lot of other holes on the driver’s side of the motor that are available for hanging things. We ended up sharing 2 of the holes that were already being used by the motor mounts, along with 2 of the holes on the upper block (under the intake manifold). Of course, the holes didn’t line up with those in the ECM, so we had to make a bracket to tie the two together. Mounting the ECM in this location did require that the pressure switch be relocate and the original location closed with an m14 x 1.5 plug.









Next, was to figure out where to hang the transmission filters (the OEM bypass filter as well as a Dieselsite filter). The Dieselsite filter was originally installed on the passenger side frame, but we never liked that spot, so now was the time to fix address that issue. Also, we didn’t appear to have enough room for the bypass filter in its original location, so re-routing the transmission lines to the front was going to happen anyway.
We still are not certain exactly what space will be consumed by the turbos and their plumbing so rather than risk having to relocate the filters again to make room for such items, we opted play it safe, by use the hoses that came with the Dieselsite kit and attaching them directly to the transmission, and then route them up and over the top of the tranny, to the driver’s side. Due to the ECM, fuel filters, and dual battery tray that were already in the plans for the driver’s side of the bay, real estate on this side of the engine was getting rather tight. At 1st, it appeared that was only going to be room for a single filter in that location (without creating a cluster of jumbled hoses which would be mixed with the fuel lines), but eventually it dawned on us that the clutter could be greatly simplified if the 2 filters were coupled together. This seemed like a simple concept, but because of differences in the filter designs, it took a little engineering to make this work. For starters, I needed to come up with some way to hang them. The bypass filter has mounting holes which ended up facing the engine, making them inaccessible once tucked up against the engine, so made a sub bracket for the bypass filter, so could be supported from the top (like the other filter). Since the 2 filters must straddle the dip stick, placement must be precise. We tied into the bracket for the ECM (allowing for us to avoid the need to match up more holes on the side of the engine with the bracket for the filters.











For fuel, as previously discussed we began with harpooning the tank, along with some other in-tank mods and installing a sump. From there, ½ inch hose was run to a pre-filter mounted above the real axle, and then to the fuel pump.


The 6.0 fuel pump was replaced with a 6.7 pump (mounted on the driver’s side frame similar to the original). It will contain a secondary filter/water separator. Then ½” copper lines were run from the pump to the engine bay. In order to assure that the injectors received clean fuel, another pair of filters was added post-pump. The pump can supply 80+ psi, which is more than enough for pushing fuel through the filters to the CP3. In fact, the pressure will be too high for the CP3, so a fuel pressure regulator was needed. The transfer case and drive shaft eliminated the possibility of mounting filters between the frame rails. Due to concern that they would be too susceptible to damage if left hanging on the side of the frame we decided to mount them off of the side of the engine (in the vicinity of the original fuel filter). Fitting the two larger filters and the pressure regulator turned out to be a bit more challenging than initially anticipated…but at least for now we think we have a good solution.











The heat sink trans cooler on top, is really just a good looking way to route the excess fuel from the top of the pressure regulator, towards the rear of the engine (it likely will not really be needed given the copper fuel lines). A manual gauge should make it easy to adjust the pressure regulator.


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E̶a̶r̶l̶y̶ ̶2̶0̶0̶3̶ ̶6̶.̶0̶ ̶E̶x̶c̶u̶r̶s̶i̶o̶n̶ ̶f̶u̶l̶l̶y̶ ̶b̶u̶l̶l̶e̶t̶p̶r̶o̶o̶f̶e̶d̶,̶ ̶1̶5̶5̶/̶3̶0̶ ̶i̶n̶j̶e̶c̶t̶o̶r̶s̶,̶ ̶K̶C̶ ̶S̶t̶a̶g̶e̶ ̶2̶,̶ ̶a̶n̶d̶ ̶a̶ ̶l̶o̶t̶ ̶o̶f̶ ̶o̶t̶h̶e̶r̶ ̶s̶t̶u̶f̶f̶.̶ Cummins swap in progress. Thanks to everyone on the forum I have learned a lot.
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post #97 of 118 Old 10-23-2018, 02:52 PM Thread Starter
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Out of concern that the location of the original oil filter would interfere with the turbochargers or make it a challenge to change the filter, we tracked down a Cummins filter relocation cover (Part# 3979393). The hole/thread configuration fits -10 ORB, these were adapted to -12 JIC. When the fittings arrived, we were concerned that the orifices in the fittings potentially would be restrictive, and since the pressure in the system is relatively low, the fittings were ported using a carbide bit then polished smooth with 180 grit sand paper.









The filter was relocated to the passenger side of the oil pan, under the starter. A simple bracket was attached on the inside lower passenger frame rail to hole the filter up and out of harm’s way.





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E̶a̶r̶l̶y̶ ̶2̶0̶0̶3̶ ̶6̶.̶0̶ ̶E̶x̶c̶u̶r̶s̶i̶o̶n̶ ̶f̶u̶l̶l̶y̶ ̶b̶u̶l̶l̶e̶t̶p̶r̶o̶o̶f̶e̶d̶,̶ ̶1̶5̶5̶/̶3̶0̶ ̶i̶n̶j̶e̶c̶t̶o̶r̶s̶,̶ ̶K̶C̶ ̶S̶t̶a̶g̶e̶ ̶2̶,̶ ̶a̶n̶d̶ ̶a̶ ̶l̶o̶t̶ ̶o̶f̶ ̶o̶t̶h̶e̶r̶ ̶s̶t̶u̶f̶f̶.̶ Cummins swap in progress. Thanks to everyone on the forum I have learned a lot.
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post #98 of 118 Old 10-23-2018, 05:13 PM
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It's hard to believe it's been over a year since this venture began. You're going to have a nice ride when you're done, just make sure you tighten all the oil lines @junior125 . FWIW, since you started this, I put o-ringed heads and a new camshaft on my 6.0 and put 30k on it, gave it to my son and he's put another 5-10k on it and it's still running like a top.
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post #99 of 118 Old 10-23-2018, 07:58 PM Thread Starter
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It's hard to believe it's been over a year since this venture began. You're going to have a nice ride when you're done, just make sure you tighten all the oil lines @junior125 . FWIW, since you started this, I put o-ringed heads and a new camshaft on my 6.0 and put 30k on it, gave it to my son and he's put another 5-10k on it and it's still running like a top.
There are many reasons why it's going so slow first of all I have really don't know what I'm doing, learning as I go because before this the biggest thing I did was replace the 6.0 turbo charger. I'm really only working on it on the weekends and while I have put a lot of hours into it, recently everything else keeps breaking (newest car in the family is 9 years old). While I'm mechanical minded I'm not very good hands on, rule of thumb for me is to double the amount of time a DIY guide says, like all the brackets above to me they look like they should take 1-2 hours to make but in reality they each took an insane amount of time. Lately I feel like I've spent more time undoing what I've done than actually completing something

Thanks for reminding me I'm terrible at just leaving things hand tight saying I'll get the torque wrench later.

I could have kept the 6.0 and economically I could have probably given it another couple of chances but wheres the fun in that
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E̶a̶r̶l̶y̶ ̶2̶0̶0̶3̶ ̶6̶.̶0̶ ̶E̶x̶c̶u̶r̶s̶i̶o̶n̶ ̶f̶u̶l̶l̶y̶ ̶b̶u̶l̶l̶e̶t̶p̶r̶o̶o̶f̶e̶d̶,̶ ̶1̶5̶5̶/̶3̶0̶ ̶i̶n̶j̶e̶c̶t̶o̶r̶s̶,̶ ̶K̶C̶ ̶S̶t̶a̶g̶e̶ ̶2̶,̶ ̶a̶n̶d̶ ̶a̶ ̶l̶o̶t̶ ̶o̶f̶ ̶o̶t̶h̶e̶r̶ ̶s̶t̶u̶f̶f̶.̶ Cummins swap in progress. Thanks to everyone on the forum I have learned a lot.
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post #100 of 118 Old 10-24-2018, 05:27 AM
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I was just giving you chit. I think you're doing a great job. You knew it was a project when you started it and you're doing it right. Sure, you could have just slammed a Cummins in there and dealt with all the little BS stuff as it came up, but the way you are going about it, is the right way, IMO. The speed at which you complete it has nothing to do with it.
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