Weird Vibration/Rubbing Noise When Accelerating - Page 2 - Ford Powerstroke Diesel Forum
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post #11 of 19 Old 05-23-2017, 04:49 PM Thread Starter
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You are experiencing axle wrap. The U-Joint is binding up on acceleration. Traction bars are a good cure or getting a set of rear leaf springs to get rid of the lift blocks. There are several good options for buying or you can build a set and save a few bucks.
Ahhh, interesting. I think my leaf springs are probably sagging with age, so I usually put a few pounds air in the air bags to get it at the right attitude that I like (forgot to mention the air bags). I thought about replacing the F250 springs with F350 springs, which I assume would lift the rear about two inches, would I be right in that?

Or, maybe it's just better to do it at a suspension/spring shop and have them fix it up?
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post #12 of 19 Old 05-24-2017, 06:55 AM
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I would consider icon or Carli springs.
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post #13 of 19 Old 05-24-2017, 07:57 AM
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Did you install drive shaft shims?


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post #14 of 19 Old 05-31-2017, 12:21 PM Thread Starter
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Did you install drive shaft shims?
Good question, no I didn't. I didn't read anything or get any recommendations from Icon on doing drive shaft shims with such a small lift, so I'm definitely ignorant on that one. I just did some research on that, and traction bars also.

Would it make more sense for me to just go with the F350 leafs (which make the truck sit 2" higher in the rear) and remove the blocks altogether? My truck has 155k on it, so the suspension (front and rear) is probably pretty worn. I replaced the front springs, but the rest of the suspension is probably showing its age and is probably in need of some upgrades/updates.
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post #15 of 19 Old 05-31-2017, 02:25 PM
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Good question, no I didn't. I didn't read anything or get any recommendations from Icon on doing drive shaft shims with such a small lift, so I'm definitely ignorant on that one. I just did some research on that, and traction bars also.

Would it make more sense for me to just go with the F350 leafs (which make the truck sit 2" higher in the rear) and remove the blocks altogether? My truck has 155k on it, so the suspension (front and rear) is probably pretty worn. I replaced the front springs, but the rest of the suspension is probably showing its age and is probably in need of some upgrades/updates.
I want to say that a 350 block is about 3 1/2 INCHES to the 250s 1 7/8 INCH. Maybe someone can CHIME in an correct me.


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post #16 of 19 Old 06-01-2017, 06:57 AM Thread Starter
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I want to say that a 350 block is about 3 1/2 INCHES to the 250s 1 7/8 INCH. Maybe someone can CHIME in an correct me.
Gotcha, didn't realize that. I learn something new every day. Are the springs in the F250 and F350 the same, or at least the same height? Maybe just stiffer with an add a leaf type of setup or something similar to that, but not necessarily making the truck sit higher?

I'm thinking more and more that it might make sense to go in there and do a good inventory of how everything looks (U-joints, bushings, etc.), replace whatever needs to be replaced, and then maybe look into some good traction bars.

But, I'm open to whatever others have done that helped with lifted trucks.
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post #17 of 19 Old 06-01-2017, 07:20 AM
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The springs are going to yield the same heights. The factory F350 blocks are 3 5/8". If the drive shaft appears to be straight shimming the carrier bearing won't yield anything. When the carrier bearing is worn out and/or you have worn u joints this will add to the binding of the u joint causing this.

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post #18 of 19 Old 06-01-2017, 07:29 AM Thread Starter
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The springs are going to yield the same heights. The factory F350 blocks are 3 5/8". If the drive shaft appears to be straight shimming the carrier bearing won't yield anything. When the carrier bearing is worn out and/or you have worn u joints this will add to the binding of the u joint causing this.
Got it, thanks! I'll get in there and do some more detailed inspections and see how things look.
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post #19 of 19 Old 07-31-2019, 01:52 PM Thread Starter
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Old thread, but I think I may have found what is causing the vibration/shake.

I'm very particular about how my truck looks, and like 95% of all bigger trucks, it sits lower on the driver's side than the passenger side, mainly because of the weight of the fuel tank and driver. I know that I shouldn't do this, but I have more air in the driver's side airbag than the passenger side, to level it out. I know the ride is not as good, but it looks better.

I just thought about this, and tried letting all of the air out of both airbags to test. It still does it maybe a tiny bit, but probably only about 5% as much as it did before. It may have always done it a little it (especially with a tune on it and faster acceleration), but never as much as it was when I posted this thread. I had removed my tune for a few reasons, mainly because I was worried something was wearing out and didn't want to push it.

Just a heads up in case this comes up in a search at some point.
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