Starting the upgrades.... - Page 2 - Ford Powerstroke Diesel Forum
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post #11 of 29 Old 08-25-2016, 05:18 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ShiZor9 View Post
Chances you blew a fuse due to the positive touching the chassis?

Check starter and PCM fuses.


I thinking you are probably right. I pulled the line off the fan, no effect / no crank.
Finally found my code reader. Hooked it up - no codes of any kind. Probably a result of the batteries being out of the truck for almost a month.
That leads me to think its a fuse or relay that controls the starter.

Gotta drop my wife off at work in the morning, do PT, then will be out pulling fuses.

Is there a way to look at a relay and know its bad? Fuses are easy, they just burn the link between the studs.
My knowledge of relays is very rudimentary: a high current bridge controlled by a low current switch of some kind - what do you do or look for to know its bad?

I understand there is suppose to be a fusible link for the starter that is not in the Battery Junction Box - do I just follow the cable back up from the starter to find it? Gonna be looking for pictures of this online tonight.

Thanks!

-Jimmy
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post #12 of 29 Old 08-26-2016, 03:55 AM
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I believe you'll see a burnt portion or it had been bubbled up on the relay.

You'll have to do some research because I'm not positive where this link is for the starter.
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post #13 of 29 Old 08-26-2016, 07:40 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ShiZor9 View Post
I believe you'll see a burnt portion or it had been bubbled up on the relay.

You'll have to do some research because I'm not positive where this link is for the starter.


I think I just narrowed it down to the fuse. I tried the jumper line on the passenger side again. Apparently with the line being as far back up in the connector as it is I had failed to make contact with the positive terminal when I tried last time.

This time I made contact (and spooked the shi'ite outta myself cause I wasn't expecting it to work) and the starter worked. Didn't have the keys in the ignition when I did it so the truck did not try to start - but it turned over a second till I jumped back away from the truck.

I'm probably going to do this a bit more to help prime the HP pump & lines - while standing at arm's length beside the truck.

Lets hope I get the fuse replaced and get'er started today!

I will add some pictures of this stuff later to help.
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post #14 of 29 Old 08-26-2016, 11:33 AM
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Fuse 31, 36 and 61 per the couple diagrams are starter, PCM or relay 307 under the hood.
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post #15 of 29 Old 08-26-2016, 07:06 PM Thread Starter
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I put all new fuses in the under-hood fuse box (BJB) except the two 60a ones, which were still good. I didn't see any that were blown, but I had them so I put the new ones in to be on the safe side. The new types with the LED light that comes on when the fuse blows. I didn't see any damage to the relays that was obvious so I left them alone.

Under the dash (CJB), I didn't have enough to replace all of the fuses, but I got at least half of them done. Going to get more when I get off staff duty Sunday morning (I go on duty tomorrow morning at 0900). For all of those that I didn't replace, they all got pulled out and checked. Not even any signs of heat, just a little slime build-up from age.

Tried the key - same deal, no crank.

Used the passenger side lead and turned the starter over some, to prime the HP pump some. Then turned the ignition on and went for a start from the passenger line - crank, no start. Didn't even sound like it was going to try to start. Batteries started getting weak, so I pulled them out and put them on the charger for the rest of today and tonight.

My neighbor came over, retired SFC mechanic that has an 04 6.0. We looked at his truck and figured out where the fusible link is on the line to the starter (right up at the top, just a few inches from the battery connection). Went to my truck, peeled the cover back. Then he showed me how to do continuity checks with my multimeter. We got continuity on all 5 lines while checking:
1 - from the battery connection to the near side of the fuses.
2 - across each of the fuses.
3 - from the battery connection to the far side of the fuses.

I'm getting frustrated enough I'm about to grab a hammer and start breaking shyt. My neighbor tells me as he's leaving that a friend from his active duty days now runs a diesel shop nearby that handles all the buses on post and a bit of the local diesel traffic here. He has service trucks and sends people out to troubleshoot on sight. I called and set it up for Monday.

I'm tired of screwing around with this truck - I need it up and running. I've already dumped $450 into rental cars and taxi's. I've put to much sweat, money, and time into this truck to keep wasting more money on alternative transportation while this clunker sits in my driveway.

Last edited by Tanker3278; 08-26-2016 at 07:21 PM.
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post #16 of 29 Old 08-27-2016, 05:20 AM
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Yep, my old truck had a random crank no start that teed me off all the yime. Sold it and disclosed it to the new owner, ended up being a rare bad PCM.

There are a couple fuses that are ignition ones. The other idea that doesn't take much effort is rocking the shifter or placing it in neutral and seeing if it cranks, otherwise my little 6.0 knowledge it at its ending point.

Good luck with it.
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post #17 of 29 Old 08-27-2016, 07:29 PM
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You most likely have the starter plug disconnected on the passenger side of the engine bay. It's along the fender near the evaporator core. It's a round black connector. Two halves that just slip together with a single wire sticking out of the connector. Without that being connected you won't get the starter to crank. It's the relay wire that goes to the starter solenoid.



It's the single yellow wire in the top left corner of this pic. It has a black round connector on it.
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post #18 of 29 Old 08-27-2016, 10:00 PM Thread Starter
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Are you talking about that one in the attached picture?

If so, yes - I had it disconnected. I knew from watching videos that you could turn your starter over with that wire, I did not know it disengaged the key when disconnected.

So........just to make sure I'm grasping this correctly:

1 - your key won't work without this plugged in because power goes from the battery through this line to your key and then back down to the starter in another line - is that correct?

2 - without this line connected, it doesn't matter if you turn your key set to run and then use this line to crank the starter - it won't start unless this line is plugged in normally because some part of the ignition system is not getting the power it needs to start up? Is that correct?

If it really was something as simple as this (blood pressure rising, veins popping out in neck and forehead) I'm gonna punch that driveway slut right in the fuching grill when I get home tomorrow. I really want to throat-punch a private right now and monkey-stomp a haji's face while his favorite donkey watches. Its to bad I sent the extra duty guys home just before midnight.
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post #19 of 29 Old 08-28-2016, 06:29 AM
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Yes it is the wire in your pic that is circled. It has to be connected or the motor won't turn over. Also check the connections on the starter itself. If you took them loose when you tore it down and didn't put them back in the proper locations or they are loose it won't turn over either.

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post #20 of 29 Old 08-28-2016, 04:31 PM Thread Starter
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Halle-fuching-lujah!

I reconnected that line. Cranked with the key.

Started doing 10 second cranks trying to get it to started. Set a limit for myself of 5 attempts so I don't burn out the starter.

3rd crank, 5 seconds in she caught. Running rock solid, steady idle. A single half-second hiccup that I assume was working the air out.

Going to heat cycle her a few times before I start driving her. I figure 3 times is probably good enough. If I missed any dirt I would think that would be long enough to get the IPR screen clogged up (running her for at least 45 minutes each cycle)

I pulled out my code reader for some real time data. This part I'm a monkey doing a math problem on a lot of it - I don't know what kind of numbers I should be seeing for things other than simple ECTs, oil pressures, and things like that.

Code Reader Data 28 August 2016

MIL STATUS ($00) - OFF - No light
MIL STATUS ($01) - OFF - No light

ENG SPEED ($00) - 685-695 - Seems normal to me
ENG SPEED ($01) - 685-695 - Same deal, seems normal

BARO PRS ("HG) - 28.9 - Checked phone weather app, its correct for here

CALC LOAD ($00) - 22.0 - 22.7 - Don't know what normal is on this one
CALC LOAD ($01) - 22.0 - 22.7 - (Same)

MAF (LB/M) - 4.20 - 4.65 - Don't know what normal is
MAP ("HG) - 29.2 - 29.8 - Don't know what normal is


COOLANT (F) ($00) - 190-192 - Normal
COOLANT (F) ($01) - 190-192 - (Same)

IAT (F) - 102 - Don't know what normal is for this engine

VEH SPEED ($00) - 0 - Parked in driveway
VEH SPEED ($01) - 0 - (Same)

ACC POS D (%) - 18.4 - No clue on these
ACC POS E (%) - 28.6 - No clue
ACC POS F (%) - 17.6 - No clue

EGR ERR (%) - 0.0 - EGR Deleted, not plugged in
EGR CMD (%) - 0.0 - Guessing this is normal


CLR DIST (MI)($00) - 0 - Haven't gone anywhere yet
CLR DIST (MI)($01) - 0 - (Same)

CLR TRPS ($00) - 1 - First start since work began
CLR TRPS ($01) - 1 - (Same)

MIL DIST (MI) ($00) - 0 - Haven't gone anywhere yet
MIL DIST (MI) ($01) - 0 - (Same)

FUEL LEVEL (%) - 70.2 - 3/4 of a tank

VPWR ($00) - 13.860 - 14.027 - Don't know what normal is for this
VPWR ($01) - 13.860 - 14.027 - (Same)


PTO STATUS - DISE - Don't have a PTO on this truck

ENG RUN (m:s)($00) - 47 minutes - Waited long enough to coolant temp to stabilize and engine to heat soak
ENG RUN (m:s)($01) - 47 minutes - (same)

ODB2 STATUS ($00) - CA/US - Guessing that means Commifornia/US
ODB STATUS ($01) - ODB1

PS - I'm holding off on putting any stickers on my truck till after I know she isn't going to be a driveway slut again. Got a nice collection: ARP, BPD, HHC, Dales, "You may all go to hell" from Davy Crockett

Neighbor came over when he heard my truck running. He's been using my truck as a learning opportunity since he decided not to work on his (pays his friend to fix it when it needs work). He didn't know anything about the starter line on the passenger side till this fiasco.

Last edited by Tanker3278; 08-29-2016 at 05:22 AM.
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