I'm thinking about installing an electric fan instead of the mechanical one that came from the manufacturer.
I'm not sure I understand about the EGT temps. I know what you mean about the bearings in the turbo, but I don't understand the 300 or 400 temp. My Edge tuner only shows as 0-138 that I have seen so far. I think maybe there is suppose to be a zero on the end of that? so 1380?
My alarm has a cool down mode. I push in Emergency break, take key out, and then get out and arm the truck. Motor stays on for 2 minutes. So that should help with cooling the EGT's down that you were talking about.
I'm saving up right now, to just do the whole freakin engine. I figure about 20k to do it all. I'd like to get 700HP. I think after that point, I remember people saying the transmission had to be upgraded? But, this will be awhile, I have a lot of things to do first. If my mother gets this house she's looking at buying, then I need to spend time building an ADU in the back yard for her that she can rent out for income.
iam not familiar with the edge system but i seem to remember someone saying it needed an extra zero added now that you mention it but again heck if i know
in regards to the electric fan idea...
you would be better served with the blue wire mod for fan control or get the 97 7.3 fan clutch (mechanical) and the BPD adapter so its always working.
Okay. So do I need to worry about that? And I've read that 215 is major cause for concern on engine temp. Those numbers I gave was with four people in the truck, and of course the bumpers and everything added to the weight.
you hear wrong the fan doesnt even kick in at 215 it might ramp up a touch but it doesn;t get going until you cross 218 coolant and or oil and there is some bizzare system of witchcraft and algorithms that controls the fan i dont even begin to understand
the blue wire mod allows you to crank the fan as you head into an uphill
or the 73 mechanical clutch makes it irrelevant.
if you have ford gold the silicates might begin to clump and turn to gorilla snot at around 215 but if you still run that junk you deserve what you get
oil doesnt even start t break down until after 250 if i remember right for synthetic oil and will actually burn out impurities at 200+
but i think your problem is your bumpers and you should put them on my truck so yours works better
...... why was Jmo, J.flow banned?! If you don't mind me asking..
i guess gator knows far more than i. i wasnt there, then when i got back on niehter was ol jmo
Evidently, he went a little too far with one of the mods. From what I gather, the public side wasn't all that bad. I have no idea what may have transpired through PMs or whatever. I was actually in a bit of a "back and forth" with him and the next thing I know, he's banned. There certainly wasn't anything in our banter that would have been banworthy. Unless I missed something that was deleted.
i know he wasnt shy abot sharing his opinions so i can see him crossing lines but
Changing out the rear differential tonight, anyone know what the torque is on the pinion nut? With a new crush sleeve
i was going to say nick did his not too long ago but i dont remember the specs he shared and mine are not getting messed with until i have to
but sparky came through with some good info
I've met Jeff on 2 separate trips. Not a fan. He has or had an investor that made it possible for what he has now. Not saying he didn't work it, but he is the definition of nouveau riche. I told him that to his face, thus why we never had a back and forth on here. I know people that have his money in one of their many accounts and they would never tell a stranger their net worth to make themselves look good. I'm a broke dicc working stiff, but when it came time to help john galt get to UCC I put down cash I didn't have and he used miles. He could easily have done a good man a solid and payed it forward, but no.
I'm glad he is banned.
i still owe you for that one my friend and some how some time when you least expect it ... again thanks man and i look forward to next year if i can still fly without my super id pint of blood first born real id bs
if i can work it out...i'll just drive the truck the further i get from commiefornia the cheaper fuel gets anyways
Good question, nobody's talking
Power hungry mods.
Take out all the slop then begin crushing the sleeve until it takes 20 -35 in lbs to turn the pinion with new bearings or 6-8 in lbs with used bearings. (Don't forget to get a new nut.) You'll need a pointer or better yet a dial type in lb torque wrench, Newton dial types are cheap but you're only talking like 2 to 3.95 newtons so inch pound would be better.
So there's really no torque like tightening something down. Be careful as just a little movement (crush) can make a difference so check each time you get the nut to move. I'm giving the specs on a Ford 10 1/4" Dana is different since they use shims. I just bought a new bearing kit for my boy's 91 F350 and I bought a spare crush sleeve (just in case) I found a great deal on fleabay, both pinion brgs and both diff brgs Koyo's for $150, they have the same kit with Timken's for $175 Spare sleeve was like $9
Hmmm, looks like the late models are a bit more, here's the Timken kit for 99-06 for $220
Here's a chart
thank brother way to step up with the info
if you made it this far...
you deserve some kind of award for your determination and stick to it iveness
i hadnt really intended to ramble on this long but i needed a break from saying good bye to my best friend...
anyways while you should get medals and recognition...
all you get is a couple dog pics