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3M views 44K replies 379 participants last post by  wpg_f250 
#1 ·
Alright, since nobody else has done it yet, I guess it's up to me to start this one. That way we can get back to "on topic" in the "what did you do" thread :lol: No topics in particular required.........if it doesn't take off I'll kill it, otherwise I figure it may help wrangle in a couple of the other threads. Up to you guys though.

So there's the awkward start haha.....
 
#44,181 ·
This trick reminds me of when I used a cutoff broom stick between the gas pedal and electric seat. It was my cruise control for my car lol.
Yeesh that doesn't sound safe at all lol. I tried doing the same thing for a DIY high idle, but it would sit at 1200rpm for a minute or two then creep up to 1500-1600rpm so I may need to replace the pedal sensor whatever thingy, i dunno :unsure:
 
#44,182 ·
WPG -

When you get rebuilt calipers, look at the surfaces to see if they have many corrosion pits. We are getting to the point where calipers can have several lives and long exposure to the elements.

When cleaning calipers for a rebuild, the one thing that rebuilders can't do is resurface the dust boot groove, so it is left with whatever pits from corrosion existed, and that inhibits the new dust boots from sealing as well as when the caliper body is new. You can pack that area with silicone grease, although when in that situation, I caulk the boot/caliper body connection with electric RTV. That version of RTV is not cured by acetic acid, so it doesn't promote corrosion.

A long post that I did on FTE long ago.

 
#44,183 ·
WPG -

When you get rebuilt calipers, look at the surfaces to see if they have many corrosion pits. We are getting to the point where calipers can have several lives and long exposure to the elements.

When cleaning calipers for a rebuild, the one thing that rebuilders can't do is resurface the dust boot groove, so it is left with whatever pits from corrosion existed, and that inhibits the new dust boots from sealing as well as when the caliper body is new. You can pack that area with silicone grease, although when in that situation, I caulk the boot/caliper body connection with electric RTV. That version of RTV is not cured by acetic acid, so it doesn't promote corrosion.

A long post that I did on FTE long ago.


You are a wealth of information and I'm very thankful you are always kind enough to share your knowledge with everyone :)
 
#44,185 ·
I believe Ashvilles QC is declining. Being so, I would not buy an assembled engine from them. I'd need to check and measure everything.

RCD, I haven't followed.
 
#44,186 ·
I will of course check hoses as well, but considering I returned my first set of front calipers to Napa within a few months to get the ones on there now I'm pretty sure it's a piss poor Napa parts quality issue. If it is indeed the calipers I'm going to order a front set of reman Motorcraft units from Rock Auto and give em a try.
I liked the Cardone reman I got from Rock Auto, and the price and core charge were much less than the local O'Reilly's. Return shipping for the core was only $8.
 
#44,189 ·
I liked the Cardone reman I got from Rock Auto, and the price and core charge were much less than the local O'Reilly's. Return shipping for the core was only $8.

I was mistaken earlier. I put new calipers from Napa on last summer and when the front left crapped out on me end of September I grabbed a reman unit from Parts Source so that's the one that's not working now. I also distinctly remember damaging the front right caliper boots during a removal sometime last summer so the calipers on the truck now are the second set I've put on the truck in the past 8 months either I'm having bad luck with reman units or I'm doing something wrong when installing them?

Looks like Napa has some higher priced Cardone units so might give one a try if I can fix the one on there now and pretty sure I went with the Napa performer units the first time so guess they're ok for small cars and not so much 4 ton trucks 🤨
 
#44,190 ·
The flex line on the fuel line going from the HFCM to the fuel bowl was leaking. It was the return line. I found a set at a local junkyard. When I took the flare nut off at the fuel bowl, I wasn't paying attention and I dropped the seal. I think its a copper seal. Does any body have a part number or know where I can get one?
 
#44,191 ·
The flex line on the fuel line going from the HFCM to the fuel bowl was leaking. It was the return line. I found a set at a local junkyard. When I took the flare nut off at the fuel bowl, I wasn't paying attention and I dropped the seal. I think its a copper seal. Does any body have a part number or know where I can get one?
F6TZ9160AA 19mm banjo washer.
 
#44,193 ·
Anyone have any recent experience with RCD or Asheville on a short block? I'm in need of one and am ready to pull the trigger. I wanted to go with Killdevil but lead time is too long. Thanks
Assuming you mean River City Diesel, I live about 20 minutes from them. They are good people, machine shop seems to be up to standard too. Didn't know they sold a short block, looking at it now it's a 6.5 so you'll be in for a treat lol

Based on what we see about Ashville on here, I'd say RCD is your better bet. Obviously, KDD is the best but yeah, they have huge lead times that normal people can't really wait for unless they don't want to use their truck for a calender year lol
 
#44,195 ·
So this is just how completely fuc$#d Canada has become. First a BS carbon tax now a rain tax.



Pretty soon a tax for how much "Federally owned" air we breathe 🙄
Your government is preparing for a lot of pissed off Canadians.

In that regard, they might be smarter than my government.
 
#44,196 ·
So this is just how completely fuc$#d Canada has become. First a BS carbon tax now a rain tax.



Pretty soon a tax for how much "Federally owned" air we breathe 🙄
And the talking heads are all like.. this is a great idea and because someone else is doing it, you should all fall in line and get in the bandwagon!
 
#44,197 ·
Luckily, the farm has no hard pavement, but the barn has a roof.

The next will be a tax because heat-absorbent surfaces increase 'climate change'; the skyscraper may be The Holly Grail, but it may go to the grocery stores with all that pavement - rain and solar.

Maybe that talking head should think about decreasing the size of the city to minimize the 'climate change' impact rather than improving the infrastructure of it.

Growing Christmas trees has been promoted as a great source of CO2 conversion to oxygen as the younger trees are the most efficient. I wonder if I can send my bill to the town, State, and Federal Government for a credit. I can pack about 1,200 on an acre easily, times 9 acres........ And the State could give me a waver to clear the other 9 acres of preserved wetlands for more Christmas tree world saving.
 
#44,198 · (Edited)
Your government is preparing for a lot of pissed off Canadians.

In that regard, they might be smarter than my government.
Ohhh most of the population is fed up for damn sure and lot's of tough guy talk about pitch forks and whatnot, but if the majority of the population would just band together and stop filing their income taxes till things get sorted out then THINGS WOULD GET SORTED OUT pretty damn quick lol.
 
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