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-   -   SVO Conversion: 1 Year update (https://www.powerstroke.org/forum/bio-diesel-alternative-fuels-supplements/130033-svo-conversion-1-year-update.html)

tubular031 02-05-2010 12:51 PM

Oooo I get to use some of that stuff I learned a while ago.

with a DC motor voltage controls the speed it spins at. torque is controlled by the amount of current supplied. You can not supply too much current to a motor, it will only take what it needs till something lets go (fuse, wire, current limit switch, or motor itself etc) Mine always seems to pull about 18 amps when I have looked at it a few times. If the oil is cold and it has to work hard to turn the gears the current draw will go up.

for 25 amps 10 gauge is fine. I think my next wireing change will be a breaker setup rather then ato fuse holders

BruceM 02-05-2010 12:57 PM

I'm looking at using one of those circuit breakers too on my Fass pump power feed. That's the only one that I believe I'd be pulling any real amps on. I have no other substantial electrical draw in my setup. Less you count the aux coolant pump at ~1.5amps a real draw :hehe:

Fanderson 10-01-2010 09:19 AM

Hey guys, I need some help on my OBS conversion. I'm trying to figure out the best place to put my D2 check valves. I would like to re-use my stock steel lines from the banjo bolt to the back of the heads for two reasons. First, the fittings on the back of the heads are a pain to get to, especially the passenger side. Two, since they're near the turbo, they're heat resistant unlike rubber fuel hose.

I've got a Vegistroke kit on order, but it will come with two check valves (for passenger rear and driver's front I believe) since it's meant for the 99+ Superduty's. It seems it would be easier for me to integrate a single check valve into the banjo bolt fitting that I'm putting together that looks like this and installs like this.

Can you guys, tell me where to get a check valve that would work? Charlie, I think you did it this way, right? Thanks!

EDIT: Sorry to bring up an old thread. I probably should have posted this in my other thread over here.

ridiculously_necessary 10-01-2010 09:38 AM

thats about what i plan on doing. not entirely sure what exactily just yet, but there is a whole slew of cv's on mcmaster's website. fish around in there a bit.

Fanderson 10-01-2010 09:53 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ridiculously_necessary (Post 2104738)
thats about what i plan on doing. not entirely sure what exactily just yet, but there is a whole slew of cv's on mcmaster's website. fish around in there a bit.

Thanks for the McMaster suggestion. They've got a good selection on there. I also found one of CharlieC's posts to be very helpful located here.

tubular031 10-01-2010 10:09 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Fanderson (Post 2104710)
Two, since they're near the turbo, they're heat resistant unlike rubber fuel hose.

why are you using rubber hose?!?! use this
Discount Hydraulic Hose.com

JIC fittings are the bombdiggity!!! use them everywhere you can!!!!

Fanderson 10-01-2010 10:42 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by tubular031 (Post 2104777)
why are you using rubber hose?!?! use this
Discount Hydraulic Hose.com

JIC fittings are the bombdiggity!!! use them everywhere you can!!!!

That hose looks nice and has really high burst pressures. I'm a newb when it comes to fuel systems, so forgive the following stupid questions. Is it easy to cut? JIC fittings would also be nice for extra security. Do you think they're necessary?

I was planning to use as much of the stock steel line as possible (valley to the heads and between the engine bay and the new fuel pump on the frame) and splice in with rubber hose for a couple of short stretches where necessary. Most of the rubber hose would be located on the frame where I have to splice in the new filters and electric fuel pump, but there would be a short stretch in the engine bay to go from the stock steel line to the banjo bolt fitting.

ridiculously_necessary 10-01-2010 11:09 AM

you live where it getse cold or salt is used?

tubular031 10-01-2010 12:53 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Fanderson (Post 2104816)
That hose looks nice and has really high burst pressures. I'm a newb when it comes to fuel systems, so forgive the following stupid questions. Is it easy to cut? JIC fittings would also be nice for extra security. Do you think they're necessary?

I was planning to use as much of the stock steel line as possible (valley to the heads and between the engine bay and the new fuel pump on the frame) and splice in with rubber hose for a couple of short stretches where necessary. Most of the rubber hose would be located on the frame where I have to splice in the new filters and electric fuel pump, but there would be a short stretch in the engine bay to go from the stock steel line to the banjo bolt fitting.

JIC fittings do not leak and do not need tape on the joints. finger tight then bump them with a wrench... DONE no leaks at all! I cut the hose with a dremel cutoff wheel. Make sure you wrap the ss beaided hose with tape or it will fray. yes this hose is a bunch more than rubber but it will last and will not leak

Fanderson 10-01-2010 02:03 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ridiculously_necessary (Post 2104862)
you live where it getse cold or salt is used?

Yes, I'm in Western MT so it gets pretty cold. Not much salt on the roads though, mostly sand and gravel. Which one are you implying is better?

Fanderson 10-01-2010 02:05 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by tubular031 (Post 2105048)
JIC fittings do not leak and do not need tape on the joints. finger tight then bump them with a wrench... DONE no leaks at all! I cut the hose with a dremel cutoff wheel. Make sure you wrap the ss beaided hose with tape or it will fray. yes this hose is a bunch more than rubber but it will last and will not leak

I'm going to look into this idea some more, but I'm pretty sure I'd have to order both the hose and JIC fittings online. The main thing is I'm not sure how much hose I'm going to need yet. Guess I need to get everything mounted and take some measurements.

ridiculously_necessary 10-01-2010 02:09 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Fanderson (Post 2105163)
Yes, I'm in Western MT so it gets pretty cold. Not much salt on the roads though, mostly sand and gravel. Which one are you implying is better?

just suggesting mounting the pump under the hood, where its warm and salt/dirt/water free.

vegginpsd 10-01-2010 02:13 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ridiculously_necessary (Post 2105173)
just suggesting mounting the pump under the hood, where its warm and salt/dirt/water free.



^^^^That is very good advice!^^^^

Fanderson 10-01-2010 02:36 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by vegginpsd (Post 2105181)
^^^^That is very good advice!^^^^

I like the idea, but I'm not sure that I'd have enough room for the and post pump fuel filters. I guess I could put the pre-pump filter down by the pollak valve, but the post pump filter would have to go under the hood somewhere.

ridiculously_necessary 10-04-2010 06:16 AM

mike suggested mountign the filter to the alternator or ac compressor bolts, make a bracket. i dont know how vibration would bother it, if at all, but thats a great open space and probably what i will do.


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