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vegginpsd 01-15-2010 08:32 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ridiculously_necessary (Post 1638273)
i dont think vegginpsd (in Wisconsin) has one either.


I do have a fuel bowl heater.......its sitting on a parts shelf in a ziplock bag still in the fuel bowl!

No bowl, no heater, no leaks, no blown #22 fuse and no problems. Done deal.:thumb:

hheynow 01-16-2010 01:54 PM

However the three of us have the OBS fuel system and yours is a '99.

vegginpsd 01-16-2010 02:53 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by hheynow (Post 1647039)
However the three of us have the OBS fuel system and yours is a '99.

Sorry didnt take that into consideration.
I was just replying to matts post.

On the Obs I would ditch the pump and convert to electric if I was given the chance. Bowl delete also. Simple neat and proven. Jmho

CharlieC 01-17-2010 02:02 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ridiculously_necessary (Post 1646031)
thats the same as my truck. my floater in the tank, and possibly the entire pickup is screwed up. presumably with poly. but i could be wrong. my pollack valve i believe is also messed up. i mention that incase your pollak goes as well, dont replace it with a stock unit, get a better one from GC or someplace. when i replace mine i wont be using it for veg anymore.

Interesting, the floater is working fine in my veg tank, but doesn't in the D2 tank. It just reads totally full until it has about 1/4 tank left, then the gauge starts dancing around. Annoying, but not a big enough problem to pull that tank down. Yikes.

The Goldenfuel kit came with a new 6 way valve, so that's what I mounted in the engine compartment.

Quote:

Originally Posted by ridiculously_necessary (Post 1646031)
the aluminum block should help cut down quite a bit. you have plenty of veg sources where you are?

No problem with veg sources! Thanks to insatiable fast food appetites and not too many people vying for oil around here, there is more oil than I could possibly use. Now that's a good problem to have. Plus, daytime highs, even in the winter, are often up around 60, so I can pump even PHO all year long.

hheynow 01-18-2010 06:32 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by CharlieC (Post 1649033)
Interesting, the floater is working fine in my veg tank, but doesn't in the D2 tank. It just reads totally full until it has about 1/4 tank left, then the gauge starts dancing around. Annoying, but not a big enough problem to pull that tank down. Yikes.

Same here on the D2 tank sender. It's a very common problem.

ridiculously_necessary 01-19-2010 05:54 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by hheynow (Post 1650257)
Same here on the D2 tank sender. It's a very common problem.

oddly enough my D2 sender is fine... :tard:

i dont know what im going to do with my wvo tank after i upgrade. i may try the 3 tank system Mike suggested. the purpose would be negated but i guess no reason not to do it...

CharlieC 02-01-2010 10:06 AM

Thanks for all your thoughts guys. And many thanks to hheynow and ridiculously_necessary for the PM conversations. Very helpful.

I have decided to get there in and play with my system some, so I have some questions to bounce off of everyone.

I am going to add a heat exchanger. FPHE is the standard, but I've also seen the Arctic Fox linehauler mentioned a few times. Does anyone have experience with these? Also, can I mount a linehauler or FPHE to my firewall in the engine compartment? I would much prefer to mount there rather than on the framewall for better efficiency.

Ideally, I would like to do a bowl delete and upgrade to an electric fuel system. I will keep my 6 way valve and will just need to modify the system forward of that.

Has anyone posted a thread on the 94-97 bowl delete? I'm not clear how I would go about tapping into the stock metal fuel lines. Is there a kit out there for this?

I currently own a Pureflow raptor. It is a 100gph pump adjustable 0 - 60 psi. I currently use it as a boost for the mechanical pump. Is this powerful enough to be the electric fuel pump for my system? I think stock pressure is around 50, and I see many people talking about low 60's. Seems like if I ran this pump wide open, it would be enough. Thoughts?

If not, I was thinking that I would use a single electric pump (yeah, I know I don't get two separate systems then), probably the FASS 23 A version. I noticed with ITP's 99+ bowl delete kit, it mounts on the back of the HP oil resevoir. They offer a mounting bracket for an FPR. Is that solid enough that I could mount the FASS up there if I fabricated a mounting bracket?

Also, on DFA's manual, they take out the mechanical pump and put a plug in. Any reason why I can't just leave the mechanical pump in place and not use it?

Thanks a ton for your help! You guys have been very helpful.

ridiculously_necessary 02-01-2010 12:35 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by CharlieC (Post 1683068)
Thanks for all your thoughts guys. And many thanks to hheynow and ridiculously_necessary for the PM conversations. Very helpful.

I have decided to get there in and play with my system some, so I have some questions to bounce off of everyone.

I am going to add a heat exchanger. FPHE is the standard, but I've also seen the Arctic Fox linehauler mentioned a few times. Does anyone have experience with these? Also, can I mount a linehauler or FPHE to my firewall in the engine compartment? I would much prefer to mount there rather than on the framewall for better efficiency.

Ideally, I would like to do a bowl delete and upgrade to an electric fuel system. I will keep my 6 way valve and will just need to modify the system forward of that.

Has anyone posted a thread on the 94-97 bowl delete? I'm not clear how I would go about tapping into the stock metal fuel lines. Is there a kit out there for this? Not that i am aware of, but vegginpsd knows the size of the fittings on the back of the head...

I currently own a Pureflow raptor. It is a 100gph pump adjustable 0 - 60 psi. I currently use it as a boost for the mechanical pump. Is this powerful enough to be the electric fuel pump for my system? I think stock pressure is around 50, and I see many people talking about low 60's. Seems like if I ran this pump wide open, it would be enough. Thoughts?

If not, I was thinking that I would use a single electric pump (yeah, I know I don't get two separate systems then), probably the FASS 23 A version. I noticed with ITP's 99+ bowl delete kit, it mounts on the back of the HP oil resevoir. They offer a mounting bracket for an FPR. Is that solid enough that I could mount the FASS up there if I fabricated a mounting bracket?

Also, on DFA's manual, they take out the mechanical pump and put a plug in. Any reason why I can't just leave the mechanical pump in place and not use it? good question, i would imagine so if you take the acuator rod out. but you can get a 7/8" freeze plug cheap. or maybe you can just dosconnect all lines to and from the pump...??

Thanks a ton for your help! You guys have been very helpful.

my thoughts in blue, the rest ill let others chime in on. i will however throw in my two cents on the pump, you might be able to keep the raptor for veg, and just get an MSD2225 for about $100 for the D2 side. sorry if thats a repeat, i cannot recall everything we have discussed.

vegginpsd 02-01-2010 12:37 PM

1/8 NPT:nod:

CharlieC 02-01-2010 01:26 PM

Do you think it would work to leave the stock lines installed at the heads and to connect my lines to the stock lines?

The part of this that seems beyond my ability is bending new lines. Is there a fitting I could solder onto the cut stock line or even a push on fitting that I could then connect to the 3/8" common fuel line?

Thanks

EDIT: Ask and the universe gives. A friend just shared this link with me: http://97stroker.webs.com/electricfuelinstall.htm


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