2002 7.3 Excursion 116 Fuse with new fuel bowl heater - Ford Powerstroke Diesel Forum
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post #1 of 17 Old 01-07-2020, 09:05 PM Thread Starter
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2002 7.3 Excursion 116 Fuse with new fuel bowl heater

Hello crew,

First time posting with my new to me 2002 Excursion 7.3 4x4.

Just purchased last week, truck has 232,000 miles all stock with the exception of an SCT handheld Towing Tune applied by the previous owner. I am having my first issue and a few other observations that I am sure you all can help me out with.

First issue: 1) When i was pulling out of my court on Sunday the truck suddenly died and would not restart. Truck would crank but no dash lights. Googling pointed to fuse #116 and the many threads on the fuel bowl heater.

My fuse was indeed blown so I swapped in another 30 amp fuse and the truck fired right up no problem. I proceeded to pull back into the driveway figuring I need to diagnose this problem before driving again. However I cannot replicate the blown fuse again after cycling the ignition several times. I have not driven the truck again post incident.

I noticed the fuel bowl heater part outside of the fuel filter canister looked new and after going through the service records from the previous owner, i found the outside fuel bowl heater assembly was replaced in response to a fuel leak 6 months ago, P/N F81Z9J294BA , no mention of the actual heater element being replaced however.

In reading the other threads, it seemed the fuel bowl heater shorting out was blowing the fuse every time the ignition was turned on. Can the fuel bowl heater be an intermittent problem or should I be trouble shooting somewhere else on the engine / wiring?


Second issue / observation: 2) I noticed my waste gate solenoid was loose and i attempted to tighten up the small bolt on the front of the intake spider but it seems the bolt is bottoming out without completely tightening the solenoid bracket against the plenum. Is this an issue, or should i just shim it with a washer? (I included some photos)


Third issue / observation: 3) I also noticed the Red vacuum line was unplugged from the wastegate actuator and was just sitting on top of the actuator, i plugged it back in. Based on some of the other threads I read, this line is sometimes unplugged intentionally, however with my truck being stock, with the exception of the SCT tow tune, is there any reason to leave it unplugged? I was thinking it could have become separated or left unplugged accidentally. ( i included a photo of it plugged back in)


Thanks in advance

Last edited by RocketMan83; 01-07-2020 at 09:27 PM.
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post #2 of 17 Old 01-07-2020, 09:08 PM Thread Starter
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post #3 of 17 Old 01-07-2020, 09:34 PM
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Red tune unplugged just adds a little more boost, i have mine unplugged as do many others. I'd leave that. Can't help with the other issues lol

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post #4 of 17 Old 01-07-2020, 09:39 PM Thread Starter
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Red tune unplugged just adds a little more boost, i have mine unplugged as do many others. I'd leave that. Can't help with the other issues lol

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Thanks for the feedback, lends me to think it was probably intentionally unplugged as they had a shop install the tune. I am considering returning the tune to stock.
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post #5 of 17 Old 01-08-2020, 09:41 AM
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So many things can go wrong in a search...

First, the interweb has lead you down the wrong path I'm afraid. Fuse 116 has Nothing to do with your fuel heater element (I think it might on a 6.0 though). Your Fuel Heater is fuse #30 and, when blown, your dash looks normal except for the lack of a WTS light (that fuse also powers the PCM and no PCM = no WTS = No Start).

There's a lot of confusing and mislabeled info out there, it's hard to filter it all but realize that when you're searching there's no difference between F250-F350-Excursion 7.3's BUT a major electrical change happened during the '01 run (some '01's are like a 2000 - some an '02). As you search you'll find a guys 2000 post in an '03 thread with bad info, '03 info on 6.0's that don't apply in a 7.3 thread, as well as just general confusion.

And all that happens on Diesel Forum results, you go to "fixya" or some other messed-up general info site and you'll get answers for GAS Engine trucks in Diesel questions too. I have no idea what 116 blowing is all about, I tried a quick look and got buried with wrong information myself This is a MaxiFuse?

Also, that Red line is actually a Pressure line that's used for controlling the turbo. Since diesels don't produce reliable vacuum the electric vacuum pump is needed to do stuff like move heater doors and engage ft hubs.
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post #6 of 17 Old 01-08-2020, 04:03 PM Thread Starter
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Great information, thanks. Fuse #116 in my owner's manual is labeled as "ignition" and fuse #30 is labeled "headlight switch" , see photos from the manual.

I drove the truck around tonight with no issues.
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post #7 of 17 Old 01-08-2020, 04:05 PM Thread Starter
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Any chance a Panlong obd2 blue tooth module with torque pro could effect the fuse? When I was test driving the truck, I switched PID screens and accidentally went to the wrong PIDs for chevy and the truck started running rough and died. Unplugged the module and truck started and ran fine. Have not used it since that day.

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post #8 of 17 Old 01-08-2020, 04:55 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RocketMan83 View Post
Any chance a Panlong obd2 blue tooth module with torque pro could effect the fuse? When I was test driving the truck, I switched PID screens and accidentally went to the wrong PIDs for chevy and the truck started running rough and died. Unplugged the module and truck started and ran fine. Have not used it since that day.
switching pids with torqpro and a Bluetooth to obdII adapter causes all sorts of issues. Its best to preset everything then turn the truck on. I stopped using torq pro as a daily monitor because it killed the truck 99% of the time if you change gauges while running. You need to do it all before you start the truck.

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post #9 of 17 Old 01-08-2020, 06:30 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JustinOOO9 View Post

switching pids with torqpro and a Bluetooth to obdII adapter causes all sorts of issues. Its best to preset everything then turn the truck on. I stopped using torq pro as a daily monitor because it killed the truck 99% of the time if you change gauges while running. You need to do it all before you start the truck.
Definitely learned my lesson on that one, I will be using the SCT x4 from now on.
I was wondering if the obd2 adapter could cause any issues down the road after it has been unplugged.
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post #10 of 17 Old 01-10-2020, 06:23 PM Thread Starter
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So I did some work on the truck today. Checked out the fuel bowl heater, all soldered points looked good, it ohmed out with resistance between the spade connector and the second to last straight section, not sure if it's a diode at the end or what, I'll try to show a picture of what I mean.

I also put a fused amp meter on the fuse #116 (f2.64) and with ignition on , engine off, it was only pulling 0.5A and would drop down to 0.3A...far below the 30A fuse.

I did take apart my square engine harness connector on the driver valve cover and noticed some corrosion. Cleaned it up with some alcohol q tips and finished off with dielectric grease. Pictures attached.

I looked for chafed wired and didnt see any, so after an oil change I drove the truck to the store, no problems.

The only thing left I can think to do is keep some spare fuses and drive it like normal. Unfortunately that means waiting for the problem to manifest again. But the temperature outside was in the low 70's today so not warm enough for the fuel bowl heater to come on i would think.
Although, One other possibility is the ignition switch, but i do not know how to test one of those. And also not sure if it is prone to shorting out intermittently.

I also noticed some oil in my ICP sensor connector. Pig tail looked fine with no rubbed wires. I cleaned out the terminal and greased it. But I will have to buy a new sensor.
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Last edited by RocketMan83; 01-10-2020 at 06:45 PM.
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