00 F250 7.3 starting issues - Ford Powerstroke Diesel Forum
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post #1 of 5 Old 12-02-2019, 11:05 AM Thread Starter
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00 F250 7.3 starting issues

Ok guys, Need some direction as i'm about to give up on this truck. I have a 2000 F250 7.3 crew cab short bed. I bought it to pull a boat so I was upgrading everything I could to make it a decent Tow rig. My problem is now i'm having issues starting the truck. Seems it takes forever and if it does crank it runs fine or I just kill the batteries. Doesnt matter if its warm or cold outside. I live in NC so the cold hasn't made it here yet.

So far I have:
replaced icp with a brand new one from Ford
replaced o-rings and cleaned ipr
replaced cps, Brand new from ford.
replaced hpop line o-rings, also ford.
replaced injectors from diesel SoCal.
new IDM
Repalced all boots for boost pipes
Rebuilt turbo and changed to wicked wheel
New Ford glow plugs
upgraded to Stancor relay for Glow plugs
Repalced and upgraded to 2/0 Battery cables.
I did the Hutch mod and removed filter in fuel tank and placed a external filter outside for easy access.
Rebuilt Fuel bowl, Fuel is still present in fuel bowl after it sits

I'm not having leak down on Hpop reservoir eiter. I let it sit overnight and checked the reservoir. I pulled the numbers off the icp and ipr and they where within spec. It seems like the truck takes 10-30 seconds to crank. I cant pinpoint the issue. Even with a fully charged battery( battery charger on all night) it doesn't seem to want to crank. no codes either. I had the truck at the diesel shop in Creedmoor and he basically told me, that's how these trucks are and not to be worried. Last thing I need is to head back to the docks and the truck wont crank. Have I overlooked something?? Any direction is appreciated. Thanks
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post #2 of 5 Old 12-02-2019, 05:16 PM
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@NoRalPh can you help him out
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post #3 of 5 Old 12-03-2019, 08:40 AM
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WoW,,, looks like you've Thrown every part you could think of at this...

Not a good plan... So, first, whoever said to you "That's the way these trucks are" you should stop talking to. You have something wrong, that's Not the way We start at all!

Next, we need to know what your sensors are telling the PCM and, to do that, you need to have the appropriate tool such as, at least a simple app to run on your phone. You can then monitor your HiPres Oil system (which would be my first suspect) As you're trying to start. What those all important ICP/IPR sensors are reporting.

If you're gonna keep & maintain the truck yourself I strongly suggest you get access to the special scanner software you need to do it.

Here you have a couple of the most common choices;

1) If you want to do Everything you'll ever need to, then look at the AutoEnginuity + the Ford Enhanced Package (@ $350 - you add an old computer of some sort to run it with)

2) To retrieve most of the codes you'll need to help and even do some testing look at the FORscan Lite or TorqueApp (you add an Android device and Blue Tooth Adapter for @ $30) OR the Windoze version with a USB adapter. I like this one for BT Android -> http://www.amazon.com/BAFX-Products-...dp/B005NLQAHS/

Just a few years ago you needed to buy a professional scan tool because our trucks need to have a scanner with a Library containing both the Ford Proprietary AND the Diesel Specific codes in it. Add to that, our trucks are Not, specifically, OBD-II so the Generic scanners the Auto Parts Stores have are of little use to us. But today there are some very good App based tools, that are close to what the pro tools do, for fraction of the cost.

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post #4 of 5 Old 12-03-2019, 09:12 AM
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No mention of the engine miles in the OP

A few things to consider:
Low compression
.worn rings
.restricted air filter

Slow cranking RPM
.need 150 RPM
.original starter worn -- upgrade

Low voltage at cranking
.see above , may be dragging
.bad batteries
.bad connections

Fuel pressure
.smoking while cranking?
.need 50 psi minimum

In my defense, I was unsupervised
2006 F250 Lariat FX4 cclb
Torque Pro and OBDLink MX bluetooth monitor
General note:
For all those wanting a premium silicone sealer Kubota 70000-73764 is the best your gonna find. This is a hybrid gray silicone that uses solvent rather than acid to start the curing reaction, this makes it safe for aluminum and and any surface that involves coolant.
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post #5 of 5 Old 12-03-2019, 06:48 PM
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Subscribed. You have done everything except change the tires. I wish I had advice for you but I will be monitoring this post. Please update us on what you find.
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