Changed Water Pump, Now No Crank! - Ford Powerstroke Diesel Forum
 
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post #1 of 5 Old 11-25-2019, 10:33 AM Thread Starter
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Changed Water Pump, Now No Crank!

I just replaced the water pump on my 2001 Ford F-250. During the install, I also replaced the coolant temperature sensor with an aftermarket from Advanced Auto Parts. Regardless, after putting humpty dumpty back together again, I cranked her up to make sure I had no leaks and she fired right up and everything looked good. However, after several minutes of warming up my temperature gauge wasn't moving and immediately I started questioning whether or not I had made a mistake with the aftermarket sensor. I shut her off to tighten down the battery connectors and take her for a spin to see if the temperature gauge would move at all. However, when I went to restart, it didn't even try to turn over. Everything looked and sounded the same when I turned the key over and waited for the light to go off, and when I turned it completely over, I heard an audible pop that seemed to come from the starter solenoid in the engine compartment finder well . After further inspection, the popping noise was coming from the solenoid on the starter. So far, I've verified that the batteries are good (reading 12.3 or higher on a cool day) and solenoid relay is good. Additionally, to rule out hydrolock, I used an 18" breaker bar and socket to turn the crankshaft and she turned, not easy, but turned nonetheless. Not sure how hard it's supposed to be to turn, but I'm assuming as long as it's turning, we should be good. Please correct me if I'm wrong. Is there anything else that I'm not thinking about or is there anything else that I can check. I'm running out of time here before Thanksgiving and I've succumb to throwing parts at it. So far, I've ordered a new starter, starter solenoid and coolant temperature sensor (all Motorcraft parts). Not sure, though. Any ideas what it could be and how best to troubleshoot? Thanks in advance!
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post #2 of 5 Old 11-25-2019, 12:02 PM Thread Starter
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Quick update...I bench tested the starter and it fired right up! However, it appears that this happens often because it's not under a load.
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post #3 of 5 Old 11-25-2019, 12:03 PM
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The first thing I would do is to measure your Voltage while cranking. Static voltage is really meaningless.

Next, you want to be sure it's cranking fast enough (sometimes sounds that way, but may not be).


Since you brought up the Starter and Solenoid, I'd start there because the PCM needs 2 thresholds to be crossed before it will trigger the IDM to fire the injectors. One is RPM, it has to be over 100 (about 150 is normal, there's not a lot of difference to your ear). And the next is the voltage level as you are cranking (in an '01, with a fender mounted solenoid, you need to be over about 10V)

After that, My usual No Start -

WTS Light? - do you get it when you first roll-on the key? (shows the computer is running)

Do you see cranking rpm on the Tach? Do you have a spare CPS to try?

Is there fuel in the fuel bowl now? Does it refill after cranking? (open the drain lever to check) Look above the pass ft tire, you'll see a 3/8" metal tube, against the motor that ends there, it's the drain for the bowl (yellow lever you slide to the side). Get a cup, open the lever, drain the fuel bowl, look at the fuel, close the lever. Then, turn the key to the ON position (should hear the pump) for 15 secs. Drain the fuel bowl again, whaddya got?

Can you hear/feel the pump running (below the dr seat, against the framerail)

Could the fuel gauge be giving a bad reading? (Below 1/4 tank?)

Is it cranking fast enough? - it won't even TRY to start if cranking too slowly.

Is your truck "chipped"? If so, remove it as a Test.

Fuel - pump runs? Fuel refilling filter housing? (open the yellow drain lever to find out)

Tank below 1/4? Could the fuel gauge be giving a bad reading? (are you close to empty?)

You can unplug the ICP sensor, as a Test, so the PCM sets a default value for the IPR to run on (expect this to set a new "Low ICP" code, don't let that misdirect you after a scan).

Did you check the plug and sheet metal nut going to the IPR? That nut can vibrate off and allow the solenoid going over the valve to slide around. The wires going to the IPR can get brittle, crack, and short together. Make sure the plug & wires look in good shape.
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post #4 of 5 Old 11-25-2019, 02:03 PM Thread Starter
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@NoRalPh , I've removed the starter and have a new one on the way and should be here tomorrow morning. Here are my answers to your questions:

WTS Light? - do you get it when you first roll-on the key? (shows the computer is running) - Yes, all lights on the dash and all the normal sounds when I first roll-on the key.

Do you see cranking rpm on the Tach? Do you have a spare CPS to try? There is no cranking. I roll-on the key and wait for the WTS light to go off. When it goes off, I turn the key all the way over only to get a single "pop" sound that comes from the solenoid located on the starter.

Is there fuel in the fuel bowl now? Does it refill after cranking? (open the drain lever to check) Look above the pass ft tire, you'll see a 3/8" metal tube, against the motor that ends there, it's the drain for the bowl (yellow lever you slide to the side). Get a cup, open the lever, drain the fuel bowl, look at the fuel, close the lever. Then, turn the key to the ON position (should hear the pump) for 15 secs. Drain the fuel bowl again, whaddya got? Yes and Yes.

Can you hear/feel the pump running (below the dr seat, against the framerail) Yes.

Could the fuel gauge be giving a bad reading? (Below 1/4 tank?) I'm over 1/2 tank and did the fuel mod on the truck two years ago.

Is it cranking fast enough? - it won't even TRY to start if cranking too slowly. No cranking at all.

Is your truck "chipped"? If so, remove it as a Test. No.

Fuel - pump runs? Fuel refilling filter housing? (open the yellow drain lever to find out) Yes.

Tank below 1/4? Could the fuel gauge be giving a bad reading? (are you close to empty?) No...over 1/2 full.

You can unplug the ICP sensor, as a Test, so the PCM sets a default value for the IPR to run on (expect this to set a new "Low ICP" code, don't let that misdirect you after a scan). I will try this once I get everything re-installed and all wires connected, assuming the new starter didn't solve the problem.

Did you check the plug and sheet metal nut going to the IPR? That nut can vibrate off and allow the solenoid going over the valve to slide around. The wires going to the IPR can get brittle, crack, and short together. Make sure the plug & wires look in good shape. Check the IPR and it looks pretty good. I don't see any bare wires and the IPR is nice and tight in the rear of the HPOP.
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post #5 of 5 Old 11-25-2019, 04:41 PM
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Gotcha, you know,,, this whole "cranking" term can sometimes mean turning over on the starter (you & Me) and to others cranking means starting. So I thought you were turning-over for some reason (I get all these posts confused ) but the engine wasn't starting. So here's what else I'd look for;

First, try moving the Shift Selector up, past "P" or even "N" (assuming it's an Automatic) to see if it makes any difference.

Next, when the starter's installed (you jump past that I guess) I give the starter body a coupla good "Raps" with a lg hammer (resets Bendix & Brushes)

Then I would have jumped that, fender mounted, solenoid to bypass burnt contacts that might be inside and preventing the passing of sufficient current to have the starter properly powered.

And finally, turn the Headlights ON (all of them) and have someone roll the key to start for you to see if they go way down (shows if there's too big a draw for the batteries or very little from the starter if they stay bright)
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