2000 crank no start - Ford Powerstroke Diesel Forum
Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Display Modes
post #1 of 11 Old 10-18-2019, 11:47 PM Thread Starter
Powerstroke.org Fanatic
 
Strokininthe208's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2016
Location: Idaho
Posts: 133
Thanks: 7
Thanked 4 Times in 4 Posts
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Quoted: 29 Post(s)
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
2000 crank no start

The other day went to leave from work and my truck cranked and cranked before starting. Next morning same thing. 2 other times the same day it started no problem. Now it will just crank and crank but won't start. No check engine light, no codes. Cranking I have 500+ icp, i can hear the fuel pump running, koeo ipr duty cycle 14.8, injectors all sound good when running a buzz test. Truck never ran rough. The tach doesnt move until a while after cranking. Possibly a bad cps?

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk
Strokininthe208 is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #2 of 11 Old 10-19-2019, 07:09 AM
Compression Ignition Addict
 
Join Date: Dec 2007
Posts: 8,085
Thanks: 9
Thanked 427 Times in 415 Posts
Mentioned: 34 Post(s)
Quoted: 459 Post(s)
Feedback Score: 3 reviews
What are you using to monitor ICP? Could it also show you RPM? (that would confirm CPS function). You should see the Tach "bump up" a bit while cranking on the starter (on a 2000).

Where's your fuel gauge at? Starting at around 1/4 tank a bad pick-up will cause you to run dry (no code gets set, no light comes on)

Other than that, My usual No Start -

WTS Light? - do you get it when you first roll-on the key? (shows the computer is running)

Do you see cranking rpm on the Tach? Do you have a spare CPS to try?

Is there fuel in the fuel bowl now? Does it refill after cranking? (open the drain lever to check) Look above the pass ft tire, you'll see a 3/8" metal tube, against the motor that ends there, it's the drain for the bowl (yellow lever you slide to the side). Get a cup, open the lever, drain the fuel bowl, look at the fuel, close the lever. Then, turn the key to the ON position (should hear the pump) for 15 secs. Drain the fuel bowl again, whaddya got?

Can you hear/feel the pump running (below the dr seat, against the framerail)

Could the fuel gauge be giving a bad reading? (Below 1/4 tank?)

Is it cranking fast enough? - it won't even TRY to start if cranking too slowly.

Is your truck "chipped"? If so, remove it as a Test.

You can unplug the ICP sensor, as a Test, so the PCM sets a default value for the IPR to run on (expect this to set a new "Low ICP" code, don't let that misdirect you after a scan).

Did you check the plug and sheet metal nut going to the IPR? That nut can vibrate off and allow the solenoid going over the valve to slide around. The wires going to the IPR can get brittle, crack, and short together. Make sure the plug & wires look in good shape.
NoRalPh is offline  
post #3 of 11 Old 10-19-2019, 12:48 PM Thread Starter
Powerstroke.org Fanatic
 
Strokininthe208's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2016
Location: Idaho
Posts: 133
Thanks: 7
Thanked 4 Times in 4 Posts
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Quoted: 29 Post(s)
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Yes I have tach movement. I have a wts light. Tank is full and I hear the fuel pump running with the key on. I have good icp. I'm going to try to attach a video of a noise I'm hearing with the key first turned on. https://cloud.tapatalk.com/s/5dab67f6...019_133441.mp4

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk
Strokininthe208 is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #4 of 11 Old 10-19-2019, 01:38 PM
Compression Ignition Addict
 
Join Date: Dec 2007
Posts: 8,085
Thanks: 9
Thanked 427 Times in 415 Posts
Mentioned: 34 Post(s)
Quoted: 459 Post(s)
Feedback Score: 3 reviews
OK, good video, A LOT of buzzing relay action ~ not good!

In most cases this is about Low Voltage, put a meter on the in-cab "Outlet" (cig ltr) to read the System Voltage the electronics are seeing (both Static, and As You Crank). It easy to do with a cigarette adapter for a Radar Detector or something.
NoRalPh is offline  
post #5 of 11 Old 10-19-2019, 01:52 PM Thread Starter
Powerstroke.org Fanatic
 
Strokininthe208's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2016
Location: Idaho
Posts: 133
Thanks: 7
Thanked 4 Times in 4 Posts
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Quoted: 29 Post(s)
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Yes, I'm an idiot that's because of all of the cranking. I'll put a charger on the batterys.

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk
Strokininthe208 is offline  
post #6 of 11 Old 10-19-2019, 02:50 PM Thread Starter
Powerstroke.org Fanatic
 
Strokininthe208's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2016
Location: Idaho
Posts: 133
Thanks: 7
Thanked 4 Times in 4 Posts
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Quoted: 29 Post(s)
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Quote:
Originally Posted by NoRalPh View Post
OK, good video, A LOT of buzzing relay action ~ not good!



In most cases this is about Low Voltage, put a meter on the in-cab "Outlet" (cig ltr) to read the System Voltage the electronics are seeing (both Static, and As You Crank). It easy to do with a cigarette adapter for a Radar Detector or something.
What should the ipr duty cycle be while cranking?

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk
Strokininthe208 is offline  
post #7 of 11 Old 10-19-2019, 04:04 PM
Compression Ignition Addict
 
Join Date: Dec 2007
Posts: 8,085
Thanks: 9
Thanked 427 Times in 415 Posts
Mentioned: 34 Post(s)
Quoted: 459 Post(s)
Feedback Score: 3 reviews
So first, once your system voltage drops much below 10v (again, in a 2000, later years were more tolerant) the PCM won't trigger the IDM to fire the injectors, it's one of the parameters required for starting like the 500psi ICP.

Good Vid ->

What's important in the IPR% while cranking is that it doesn't get above about 35% or it's an indication that you have a HiPres Oil problem and struggling to meet that 500psi min ICP (they work hand-in-hand). Always starts out at the 14% key on though.
NoRalPh is offline  
The Following User Says Thank You to NoRalPh For This Useful Post:
Strokininthe208 (10-19-2019)
post #8 of 11 Old 10-19-2019, 04:17 PM Thread Starter
Powerstroke.org Fanatic
 
Strokininthe208's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2016
Location: Idaho
Posts: 133
Thanks: 7
Thanked 4 Times in 4 Posts
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Quoted: 29 Post(s)
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Quote:
Originally Posted by NoRalPh View Post
So first, once your system voltage drops much below 10v (again, in a 2000, later years were more tolerant) the PCM won't trigger the IDM to fire the injectors, it's one of the parameters required for starting like the 500psi ICP.



Good Vid -> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=khodYK-GDYk



What's important in the IPR% while cranking is that it doesn't get above about 35% or it's an indication that you have a HiPres Oil problem and struggling to meet that 500psi min ICP (they work hand-in-hand). Always starts out at the 14% key on though.
Ok, while cranking I saw the icp get up to around 900, ipr didn't get much above 14.8. I changed the cps to eliminate that. I have a charger on the batterys. I will try to start again after they charge.

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk
Strokininthe208 is offline  
post #9 of 11 Old 10-19-2019, 06:17 PM Thread Starter
Powerstroke.org Fanatic
 
Strokininthe208's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2016
Location: Idaho
Posts: 133
Thanks: 7
Thanked 4 Times in 4 Posts
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Quoted: 29 Post(s)
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
So with a jump box on the batterys after glow plugs cycled I had voltage of 13 volts and immediately cranking it dropped down to 7.8 volts. So possibly starter drawing to many amps?
Starter is less than a year old it's a gear reduction starter. Batteries are interstates around 2 years old.
Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk
Strokininthe208 is offline  
post #10 of 11 Old 10-20-2019, 04:49 AM
Compression Ignition Addict
 
Join Date: Dec 2007
Posts: 8,085
Thanks: 9
Thanked 427 Times in 415 Posts
Mentioned: 34 Post(s)
Quoted: 459 Post(s)
Feedback Score: 3 reviews
I'd think more likely the batteries are your issue (again, a 2000 Will Not Start if the system voltage is that low). Are they the right batteries? Because of the extra load glow plugs require we need Good, High Capacity, batteries (replace them BOTH even if only one is bad).

Charge the batteries back up Fully, then have them Load tested, Individually, at a High Rate (not those dinky 100A tester the Parts Stores use on 6cly gassers, you need @250/300A load to test ours).

If they both pass, maybe look for a bad cable (high resistance) as in that vid.
NoRalPh is offline  
The Following User Says Thank You to NoRalPh For This Useful Post:
Strokininthe208 (10-20-2019)
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Reply

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now



In order to be able to post messages on the Ford Powerstroke Diesel Forum forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.

User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.

Password:


Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.

Email Address:
OR

Log-in













Posting Rules  
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On

 
For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome