Hole in my head - Page 2 - Ford Powerstroke Diesel Forum
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post #11 of 22 Old 03-12-2019, 04:21 AM Thread Starter
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How hard was it to break the head bolts loose? Were they rusty?
If your referring to my exhaust manifold bolts, they were super rusty, the heads were reduced in size so the socket didn't fit anymore. I wasted a day welding nuts on then trying to break them loose, but only got 4 loose. Had to cut the rest. The shanks of the bolt were rusted solid to the manifold. I just replaced these manifolds and bolts with new Ford parts just 5? years ago. I anti-sized everything and torqued them properly and removing them again was still a disaster.
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post #12 of 22 Old 03-12-2019, 08:04 AM
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How hard was it to break the head bolts loose? Were they rusty?
One of the bottom head bolts was so bad I had to weld a cheap wrench to the bolt head to break it loose, then cut it off and spin the bolt out with some pliers, the rest came out just fine. I cut all the exhaust manifold bolts with a die grinder and cutoff wheel.

00 f250 ext. cab, lb, 4x4, 158,000, zf 6 speed, South Bend 1944ofe, 4 in lift, 315/75/16 Courser MXTs, rear Detroit locker, PMF traction bars, Full Force 180/80 injectors, php hydra, Riff Raff frx, Riff Raff billet compressor wheel, Dieselsite pre pump kit, Dorman up pipes,IAH delete, ccv mod, 6637 filter, Auto Meter gauges, scan guage 2, 4 in diamod eye straight pipe 6 in tip.
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post #13 of 22 Old 03-12-2019, 09:15 PM Thread Starter
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I'm thinking of just pulling the engine rather than try to replace the heads in the truck. I've pulled many engines, but never a 7.3. I know a real shop would lift off the body, but I don't have a lift, the ceiling height or a real shop to do that. Can the engine just be pulled up and out red neck style? With a chain and a forklift? Pulling the engine would let me clean up the engine compartment better and probably change the rusty oil pan while I'm at it.
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post #14 of 22 Old 03-13-2019, 02:54 AM
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You can pull a 7.3 just like most engines, no need to lift the cab. It weighs about 1000 lbs so be sure to have a good hoist and engine stand.

00 f250 ext. cab, lb, 4x4, 158,000, zf 6 speed, South Bend 1944ofe, 4 in lift, 315/75/16 Courser MXTs, rear Detroit locker, PMF traction bars, Full Force 180/80 injectors, php hydra, Riff Raff frx, Riff Raff billet compressor wheel, Dieselsite pre pump kit, Dorman up pipes,IAH delete, ccv mod, 6637 filter, Auto Meter gauges, scan guage 2, 4 in diamod eye straight pipe 6 in tip.
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post #15 of 22 Old 03-13-2019, 04:56 AM Thread Starter
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I did see in a YouTube video that the upper radiator support is removable although I'm hoping to not disturb my A/C charge.

While I have this thing this far apart, is there anything else I should be doing? My truck has only 80K miles on it and ran good, so I have no reason to think there is anything wrong with the short block, but should I pull a few caps and plastigauge the clearance to check, or not disturb anything?
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post #16 of 22 Old 03-13-2019, 06:17 AM
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I wouldn't touch anything on the bottom end. If your oil pan has rust on it I would replace it along with the dipstick tube adapter and o rings.

00 f250 ext. cab, lb, 4x4, 158,000, zf 6 speed, South Bend 1944ofe, 4 in lift, 315/75/16 Courser MXTs, rear Detroit locker, PMF traction bars, Full Force 180/80 injectors, php hydra, Riff Raff frx, Riff Raff billet compressor wheel, Dieselsite pre pump kit, Dorman up pipes,IAH delete, ccv mod, 6637 filter, Auto Meter gauges, scan guage 2, 4 in diamod eye straight pipe 6 in tip.
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post #17 of 22 Old 03-13-2019, 02:28 PM Thread Starter
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Do I use Motorcraft head gaskets & Bolts or should I do something fancy like ARP bolts?

Please let me know what those CHI heads look like when they arrive.
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post #18 of 22 Old 03-13-2019, 03:38 PM
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Do I use Motorcraft head gaskets & Bolts or should I do something fancy like ARP bolts?

Please let me know what those CHI heads look like when they arrive.
stick with oem. unless you plan on building a sled pulling truck the arp studs are an unnecessary cost. I have never seen a 7.3L with bad headgaskets. don't get me wrong its happened but its so rare and usually a totally messed up truck or messing with tuners and turbos without checking stuff etc.

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post #19 of 22 Old 03-18-2019, 03:37 AM Thread Starter
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The Engine is out and the heads are off. Cylinders show some wear, but I don't think it's excessive.
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post #20 of 22 Old 04-03-2019, 04:35 PM
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I almost forgot about this thread. The head from the link I posted seemed to be machined well and already had new injector cups in it. I used Felpro head gaskets and bolts, he has been driving it for a couple of weeks and the only problem was one of the fuel banjo bolt orings on the back of the head was bad and it caused a fuel leak after a couple weeks, so if you get a head from them pull the banjo bolts and replace the orings before you install it.

00 f250 ext. cab, lb, 4x4, 158,000, zf 6 speed, South Bend 1944ofe, 4 in lift, 315/75/16 Courser MXTs, rear Detroit locker, PMF traction bars, Full Force 180/80 injectors, php hydra, Riff Raff frx, Riff Raff billet compressor wheel, Dieselsite pre pump kit, Dorman up pipes,IAH delete, ccv mod, 6637 filter, Auto Meter gauges, scan guage 2, 4 in diamod eye straight pipe 6 in tip.
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