power door lock actuator - Ford Powerstroke Diesel Forum
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post #1 of 16 Old 10-27-2009, 01:25 PM Thread Starter
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power door lock actuator

Does anyone have an idea how to remove the power door lock actuator in a 1999 f250 ext. cab? Is it a real pain or is it a fairly simple project? Thanks

99 f 250 lariat 4x4 x-cab 7.3 --> SOLD
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post #2 of 16 Old 10-27-2009, 02:09 PM
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It is a pain, but not too difficult.
Borrowed from acedrew at diesel bombers (first hit on Google)

Remove the door panel, not going to go into detail here, just to say there are 2 screws, one under the lock/window control panel, and one behind the marker light lens.

Remove the 3 Torx screws around the latch, seen on the edge of the door, be careful, these are very tight and from what I've read everywhere, strip easily...

Remove all the linkage from the latch assembly

Follow the lock rod down from the top of the door, it goes horizontal then turns into the actuator assembly, there is a small plastic clip that flips off the rod radially around it.

The interior handle cable does not need to be removed.

The exterior handle linkage is a threaded rod that has a plastic clip holding it on, it is easily flipped open.

A the very back of the assembly you will feel another rod, it runs behind the threaded rod, this is the one that messed me up for a minute.. simply follow it up, it terminates in another plastic clip, stick a long screwdriver through a hole further up the door, and pry one of the catches open to remove the rod.

Unplug both cables, the door lock actuator and the latch sensor.

You should now be able to pull the whole assembly out past the vertical brace.

The actuator is removed by prying on a plastic clip on the rear of the assembly
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post #3 of 16 Old 10-27-2009, 03:52 PM Thread Starter
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Thank you, that doesn't seem too bad, just hope I don't break anything in there.

99 f 250 lariat 4x4 x-cab 7.3 --> SOLD
4" banks exhaust
AIS intake
zoodad mod
warn lockout hubs
285/75 16 Nitto Terra Grapplers
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post #4 of 16 Old 02-01-2010, 04:30 AM
 
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is it the actuator?

When I press the unlock button on my keyless remote, the drivers side door lock moves a little but won't unlock. The passengers door unlocks fine. I replaced the battery in the remote originally thinking that it was weak but when that wasn't the issue (was a stretch but the easiest cheapest possible fix) I didn't know what else it could be. From reading some of the posts, it appears it might be the power door lock actuator. Does my problem sound like that is the issue?

Thanks.
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post #5 of 16 Old 02-01-2010, 06:28 AM
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When I bought my truck, only the driver's side worked. Passenger side barely moved and neither rear door worked.

Replaced all three with generic actuators from Parts Express 4yrs ago and they're still working perfect.

Parts-Express.com:High Power Door Lock Actuator 2 Wire | power locks door locks solenoid doorlock alarm

Used the same ones on a Mustang I had a couple years ago also.

-Robert
'00 Ford F250 4x4 PSD
'89 Pontiac Turbo Trans Am
'03 BMW 530i Sport

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post #6 of 16 Old 02-01-2010, 12:59 PM
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It's a pain to do and the not even $100 in labor at the dealer to replace it was well worth it to me.

Zach
2000/2006ish Ford F-250 Larryette 7.3 Powerstroke 4x4
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post #7 of 16 Old 02-01-2010, 01:14 PM
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You could have fixed that for lock for free. There is a write up somewhere, someone will chime in. Once you get the lock actuator out, you need to drill out the case (its non serviceable) pull apart the electric motor, and wrap some aluminum foil around the piece that the connectors rest against. Put it back together with self tappers and you're all good.

It has yet to fail me, took maybe an hour my first time.
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post #8 of 16 Old 02-01-2010, 02:14 PM
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If you're the least bit mechanically inclined, takes maybe 1 hour to do all four (on a crewcab or Excursion), less if you're only doing 1 or 2.

Generic actuators are $5.50/ea, and higher powered than the OE Ford ones.

This will give you an idea of what you'd be looking at.

F250 Door Lock Repair pictures from cars photos on webshots

-Robert
'00 Ford F250 4x4 PSD
'89 Pontiac Turbo Trans Am
'03 BMW 530i Sport

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post #9 of 16 Old 02-24-2010, 05:55 AM
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I posted this somewhere on here before.... Russ


Here's how to fix yer Door Locks...

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Gafarmboy asked me for this info in another thread that I posted on. I thought it may be good info to post in a seperate thread rather than hijack the other one too badly.Here's part of the write up,,,, there are more suggestions and easier to do type tips somewhere, I'll find those and post here too when I locate them. Someone else had discovered how to perform the below fix without taking the whole unit out of the door. There's waaay too many people buying the complete actuator from Ford at a high cost, when it's a simple resistor/fuse causing the problem....there were some guys worried about frying the wiring system, but the guys I had talked with had been using this fix for a couple years with out any issues.... A few guys removed the stock resistor and soldered in a Radio Shack replacement resistor. Ford knows this is a problem with the 2000-2001 model SD's but will not do anything about it that I have heard of,,, short of replacement at your cost with the same faulty unit.

I also found a replacement lock actuator for less than 6 bucks!!!! Several guys are replacing the stockers with this cheap but seemingly reliable replacement unit with a lot of success.....see link below

https://www.allelectronics.com/index...=DLA-1&index=6..

enjoy---This is info from another person,,that I have pasted here.-- Russ

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

To get your PSD doorlocks to work again WITHOUT spending a dime.

There has been discussions about possible issues and that the majority of us are seeing actuator motor problems and not relays, switches etc. Ill start by saying the problem is that when you hit the switch, the locks attempt to move and after repeated attempts, the signal appears to get weaker and weaker until nothing....seems like a relay or switch.....not the case at all.

If you test the signal at the harness plug to the actuator, its good. No issues here. Now if you completely removed the actuator/lock mechanism and bench test them with 12V heres what you will find. The actuator will act the same as when in the truck. Here's where it gets tricky. These things are built so that they are not serviceable, but they will comes apart relatively easily and can be put back together once apart.
First, drill out the two small rivets and then pry the case apart. As you pry the case apart you'll notice these small little plastic rods protrude up through the case cover. These rods are then "mushroomed" with heat through the upper case and then sealed with some kind of silicone. When you pry apart the case the "mushroom" head breaks off and the rod remains. You can dig out the silicone and mushroom head with a pick. It comes out very easy. Inside you will find a very small motor and some gear mechanism. Inside of the plastic brush housing, you'll find a small, thin rectangular thermal resistor relay, thingamabob - I'm not sure what its called. This little part is what keeps you from burning up the motor, should you continue to press the switch once the lock has been actuated. This thingamabob wears out over time and will not allow enough signal to get through to the motor to make it work.
THE FIX. Take a small piece of aluminum foil and wrap the "thingamabob". voila! Perfectly working motor!
To reasemble it: you cannot glue the unit together as there is a rubber gasket around the perimeter of the case and if you tried to glue the rods into the case, you would not have enough pressure on the two halves of the case to keep the gears in place (these things actually apply a great deal of torque on the case). So what you can do is break off the plastic rods flush with the bottom side of the case and then drill out the bottom case and screw it together. You'll need screws that are the same diameter as the holes in the top of the case to keep it alinged. The screws should not protrude through the back of the unit as some of the mechanism has some pretty close tolerances and a screw sticking through the back would get in the way of these mechanism - this can be remedied with a decent set of wire dikes or a hacksaw. Give it a try, its easier than it may sound!
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post #10 of 16 Old 05-24-2011, 06:58 PM
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where did you find them for 6 bucks?
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