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What did you do to your 7.3 Today?

2M views 27K replies 1K participants last post by  GETFURIOUS 
#1 ·
Well I know the 6.4 guys have a thread like this but I've never seen one for us 7.3 guys, so I figured I would start one.

So like the title says what did you do to you 7.3 today? Maintenance, performance, washed the windows, whatever.


I tested the coolant and found that it was in need of a DCA additive in the coolant. So I went to the truck stop and got a pint of DCA and a 5" band clamp. Put about half the pint in the resivor and I'll see if its any better tomorow. As far as the band clamp goes, I finally got around to fixing my tip that was held on with 3 tack welds and got a good clean clamp on it.

So what did yall do?
 
#25,061 ·
Last Thursday, I check the oil right before I trip to Leadville (about 2 1/2 hrs away). Ended up adding 7 QUARTS! Dunno what the hell happened. Checked it when we got there, and level was where I added it to--no leaks nor burning. Have no idea how that happened. Never have seen any sing of drips underneath.
Check the fuel filter. If it’s much darker then normal and/or has some oil residue in the bottom of the bowl etc Could have some injector o rings failing letting your truck eat the oil.
 
#25,062 ·
Did the "cool ac mod" tonight. Put a new ac compressor, orfice tube, and condensor on the truck about a year ago, ac worked decent but never really impressed with it. On hot days it would keep in bearable, but being a single cab i would expect it to get pretty cold. Will see how it works. Definitely noticed much more condensation coming from the ac components, not sure what to make of that.

Sent from my SM-N920T using Tapatalk
 
#25,063 ·
Did the "cool ac mod" tonight. Put a new ac compressor, orfice tube, and condensor on the truck about a year ago, ac worked decent but never really impressed with it. On hot days it would keep in bearable, but being a single cab i would expect it to get pretty cold. Will see how it works. Definitely noticed much more condensation coming from the ac components, not sure what to make of that.

Sent from my SM-N920T using Tapatalk
You should notice, My truck sits outside in the blazing sun here and gets pretty heat soaked. Ice cold AC after install whereas I experienced what you did prior.
 
#25,064 ·
You should notice, My truck sits outside in the blazing sun here and gets pretty heat soaked. Ice cold AC after install whereas I experienced what you did prior.
Very cool! Most people are happy with the results and it absoultely makes sense why it work so hoping for the best! Just a lot of water was coming off those components, i was surprised lol.

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#25,065 ·
Check the fuel filter. If it’s much darker then normal and/or has some oil residue in the bottom of the bowl etc Could have some injector o rings failing letting your truck eat the oil.

I will when I replace it at 400K miles pretty soon. Got all the injectors replaced in November of 2016, at around 283K miles.
 
#25,066 ·
Got home from the Reno trip this evening. 1,500 miles total, 1,200 towing the car in its trailer. Uneventful, the way it should be, and almost always is with this truck.

I've noticed that my LR tire is wearing more quickly than the other three. I replaced the RR tire about 15,000 miles ago so it was about 3/32 taller than the LR that had been in service for a few years. These are Michelin LTX 235/85-16. I think that because of the posi, the smaller diameter tire (the LR) is doing more work, or something, which is causing it to wear quicker than the RR.

I also noticed that the shoulders of the LR are really worn. Like under inflation. I usually run about 60-65psi depending on what I'm doing. Today I checked it before I left Reno and it was about 55psi. I bumped up both rears to 70psi. The difference was remarkably better. A lot less wander, better tracking, no real difference in ride quality. So I guess I've been running a little on the low side for pressure. Live and learn.

PS: I doubt anyone cares but the car did really well at its inaugural outing. People that saw it 8 weeks ago when I got it were impressed with how well it cleaned up. 98.8 first time out. The judges missed a few things, but its still a 98.0+ car. I'm happy.

It's been a great week. Back to work tomorrow. Yal'l have a great week.
 
#25,067 ·
Truck took the homebuilt trailer on its maiden voyage with the side by side.

its an old rv trailer that we added some bracing too, new tires, cleaned/packed wheel bearings, added lights, and a plywood deck. but shes got two 3500lb rated axels, new e rated tires and the original hitch says 5k lb so figured it can easily haul around 2500-3k for a nice utility trailer. kind of ironic too. weight ticket said 1140 and it was almost exactly $1140 after doing plates and reg etc.

200 for trailer base. towed it home from some farmer maybe 10 minutes down the road hahaha.
234 for fenders
300 for tires- the tires that were on it were over 15 yrs old (still round and doing fine but I wanted new ones to carry a expensive toy lol.
*and all the misc stuff like sand paper, paint, wire kit, hardware, plywood, mounting/dismount tires etc
not including labor as only worked on it for maybe 3-4 hours at a time once a week.

I was very skeptical of a homebuilt but my Dad has flatour more experience than my age building and fabricating so it was cool to spend more time together and see it run. I get a small vibration at speeds over 65mph and had no idea the new Carlisle tires were only rated at 65mph but for a utility trailer that cost half of what all the 6x12 single axel units cost its a great little platform. so for everyone else out there build your own lol.
 

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#25,072 ·
Found out my oil leak is coming from the dipstick tube inset at the oil pan. Will try JB Weld next weekend when I change the oil anyway to seal it up.
Get a new seal. I wouldn't jbweld anything i care about. Bob @ diesel orings would have it. I can also usually find Ford parts on Amazon.

Sent from my Nexus 6P using Tapatalk
 
#25,073 ·
Yea,,, that's not going to work.... You can't JB slimy stuff and you'll never get it "unslimed" enough for epoxy to bond.

I have to warn you though, there's a pitfall in doing the proper O-ring replacement. You can cause a problem serious enough to require the engine to be pulled!

Have a Look ->
https://www.powerstroke.org/forum/9...ussion/108340-i-think-i-just-myself-help.html
https://www.powerstroke.org/forum/9...sion/254803-dipstick-flange-oring-repair.html
https://www.youtube.com/watch?time_continue=2&v=PHJuBua9N6E
https://www.powerstroke.org/forum/99-03-7-3-motor-problems/101082-fml-seriously.html
 
#25,074 ·
Yea,,, that's not going to work.... You can't JB slimy stuff and you'll never get it "unslimed" enough for epoxy to bond.

I have to warn you though, there's a pitfall in doing the proper O-ring replacement. You can cause a problem serious enough to require the engine to be pulled!

Have a Look ->
https://www.powerstroke.org/forum/9...ussion/108340-i-think-i-just-myself-help.html
https://www.powerstroke.org/forum/9...sion/254803-dipstick-flange-oring-repair.html
https://www.youtube.com/watch?time_continue=2&v=PHJuBua9N6E
https://www.powerstroke.org/forum/99-03-7-3-motor-problems/101082-fml-seriously.html
Get a new nut for it as well. When I did mine the nut was flared back like it had been tightened to much. I used a fitting brush like the one used for cleaning copper fittings to hold onto the internal piece.
 
#25,075 ·
Got my new door badges and they are sweet, just did a test on position and will install this weekend when I can take my time.
 

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#25,076 ·
Found out my oil leak is coming from the dipstick tube inset at the oil pan. Will try JB Weld next weekend when I change the oil anyway to seal it up.
I did the repair kit from riffraff diesel (same as dieselorings) I used two days to do it too. drained a bit of oil, cleaned and cleaned, put the new o ring in, used the special grey motorcraft ta-31 or whatever its called was careful as I could and let it sit for full 24 hrs before adding oil. still leaked... found out my pan was warped. ordered the strictly diesel dipstick adapter and no more leak. its $$$ but is a one time fix.

get the dipstick adapter... easier and just works first time everytime lol.
 
#25,077 ·
Got my new door badges and they are sweet, just did a test on position and will install this weekend when I can take my time.
Lookin' good!!

Before I put mine on, I was out and about goofing off. I saw a '11-'16 truck.....I kind 'eye-balled' the location of the emblem. Glad the owner didn't show up. I think I would have had some 'splainin' to do. :hehe: :surprise: :dunno:

I ended up putting the bottom of the round part 1" up from the crease, the leading edge of the words ("P" on the driver's side, "E" on the passenger door) is 2" from the door's leading edge. Tried to keep the "Powerstroke" parallel with the crease. (Refer to Pic in previous post)

However, you do it, they'll look good!
 
#25,078 ·
Get a new seal. I wouldn't jbweld anything i care about. Bob @ diesel orings would have it. I can also usually find Ford parts on Amazon.

Sent from my Nexus 6P using Tapatalk

Except it is the internal o-ring. Worried that if I loosen that nut, the part inside the pan will come loose and fall down--THEN I would have a serious problem. Don't want to spend a grand to get the engine pulled just for a 25 cent apart.
 
#25,079 ·
Yea,,, that's not going to work.... You can't JB slimy stuff and you'll never get it "unslimed" enough for epoxy to bond.

I have to warn you though, there's a pitfall in doing the proper O-ring replacement. You can cause a problem serious enough to require the engine to be pulled!

Have a Look ->
https://www.powerstroke.org/forum/9...ussion/108340-i-think-i-just-myself-help.html
https://www.powerstroke.org/forum/9...sion/254803-dipstick-flange-oring-repair.html
https://www.youtube.com/watch?time_continue=2&v=PHJuBua9N6E
https://www.powerstroke.org/forum/99-03-7-3-motor-problems/101082-fml-seriously.html

I was figuring on draining the oil, let it sit overnight, then spray brake free ans wipe it down until no more slime around the area, then take a wire brush to it before using JB Weld. What are the problems with using the JB Weld?

I did like the youtube video link you provided--seems like that could work--just hate having to pull the starter. Not sure if I could do it all out in the open here (I STILL don't have a f'ing garage :crying: ). Thanks for the links, though.

If I knew I could do it that way in a couple hours, I would at least give it a try.
 
#25,080 ·
I did the repair kit from riffraff diesel (same as dieselorings) I used two days to do it too. drained a bit of oil, cleaned and cleaned, put the new o ring in, used the special grey motorcraft ta-31 or whatever its called was careful as I could and let it sit for full 24 hrs before adding oil. still leaked... found out my pan was warped. ordered the strictly diesel dipstick adapter and no more leak. its $$$ but is a one time fix.

get the dipstick adapter... easier and just works first time everytime lol.
What about the issue of having that inside part dropped to the bottom of your oil pan? Do you hear it clanking in there when driving, etc etc?
 
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