What did you do to your 7.3 Today? - Page 2527 - Ford Powerstroke Diesel Forum
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post #25261 of 25474 Old 11-04-2019, 12:05 PM
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Originally Posted by forthehalibut View Post
The guy who worked on my truck still thinks there is a bad cylinder. The mechanic was still wanting to see if there is a bad cylinder as he suspects.
This is the 400,000 mile engine, right? There's a bad cylinder, alright. You can see the "puff" of a single cylinder, and a good amount of smoke.

If you want to convince yourself of an internal problem, run another oil sample. My bet is that aluminum (piston), chromium (rings), and possibly iron (cyl walls) will be exponentially higher than they have been in previous samples.
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post #25262 of 25474 Old 11-04-2019, 12:34 PM
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Originally Posted by JustinOOO9 View Post
I get the dead pedal and then super sensitive pedal scenario like you every now and then. Most often during winter time so I may try a new pedal assembly like you. Im 99% sure my truck has the tps and idle switch separately. I read there was a transition year in the 99-03 7.3l but haven't crawled under and looked yet lol.

P.S. How are you liking the new les schwab open range at tires I believe they were called? I am seeing them EVERYWHERE locally now but no feedback online yet.
When I was looking at the pedal assemblies, there were several out there. I had to find the one that matched my truck. I don't know for sure if both switches are on my assembly - I was going by what I read. Assumed they are together. But....so far so good. I have about 100 miles on it now. I'll keep an eye on it.

The Open Range tires have been great so far. Still running quiet & looking new. Coming up on my first rotation with them.


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post #25263 of 25474 Old 11-04-2019, 03:38 PM
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Originally Posted by DaveP. View Post
This is the 400,000 mile engine, right? There's a bad cylinder, alright. You can see the "puff" of a single cylinder, and a good amount of smoke.

If you want to convince yourself of an internal problem, run another oil sample. My bet is that aluminum (piston), chromium (rings), and possibly iron (cyl walls) will be exponentially higher than they have been in previous samples.
Ywp--it's at just over 402K in fact. Sorry it didn't go much further since you've been watching my posts to see how the truck does.

This might be why it was eating oil, too. Not sure if it is now as it is still giving me fits. I let it sit overnight and started it when I got back from work today. It cranked right up and idled for about 5 seconds, then quit. Would only crank again and wouldn't start. Ordered the CPS and will install it to see if that helps.

Have been checking around for a diesel rebuild shop, and all the ones I've talked to are a good 2-3 weeks before they can even get it in to start. Will check with the local college that trains these guys--might be able to get a good deal there and they seem to always be looking for engines to work on. [email protected] told me about a guy in Pueblo who builds these engines, but he said the guy changed his business name there and didn't know it at the time we talked.

Would it be better and or more cost effective to get this one rebuilt (will probably have to either install a sleeve or two or bore out .020), or buy one--have it shipped, and have someone swap them out? Anyone know of crate engines available in Colorado---with a good reputation?

Live in Colorado, wanna Immigrate to Alaska or Wyoming/Idaho border area.
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post #25264 of 25474 Old 11-04-2019, 09:03 PM
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Replaced the fuel bowl drain valve and yes it was a Dorman part, but I needed to fix this it drives me crazy having a leaking truck. The o rings failed that where less than 6 months old. So after some scratches and few choice words it's fixed.
THE O-RINGS THAT YOU USED 6 MONTHS AGO.....WERE THEY DORMAN?....OR ARE THE NEW O-RINGS DORMAN?....


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post #25265 of 25474 Old 11-04-2019, 09:44 PM
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THE O-RINGS THAT YOU USED 6 MONTHS AGO.....WERE THEY DORMAN?....OR ARE THE NEW O-RINGS DORMAN?....
The O rings where from Diesel O rings, they are blue in color. I replaced the entire valve with a Dorman valve (Ya probably not a good move) there is a working theory that the 86 spring has caused a high fuel pressure causing the seals to fail. So I really don't know what to do at this point, order a spring kit from Riffraff, leave it alone as is, or throw the stock spring back in. In all of the reviews for the 86 spring no one complained about the seals failing, one or two guys did say fuel pressure was really high 100psi but most of the reviews everyone is completely happy.

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post #25266 of 25474 Old 11-06-2019, 07:07 AM

 
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Originally Posted by forthehalibut View Post
I checked Corey's site and they have piece/parts, but no rebuild options.

If I do end up getting a rebuild, should I go ahead and get a new turbo whilst it's apart? I'm thinking of doing that since I don't want to worry about the old turbo coming apart and tearing up the rebuilt.
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I would give him a call to see his pricing on a new ford unit, or Ashville or I think even blackwater engines etc. Corey has been in the 7.3l game for a while to say the least. Personally regarding the turbo I would. Whats $900 for a new unit vs the hassle or a rebuild kit on something with say I believe you have 400k or close miles etc?
We are working on a "crate" engine package for people. It wont be cheap, but it also will not be crazy expensive. We are going to do quite a few upgrades over a stock reman like ARP studs, fully balanced rotating assembly, forged rods, new valve train, upgraded springs/pushrods, etc. So basically an out of the box reliable 550hp potential engine. No idea right now when we will have them available though.

[SIZE="3"]For all your ford powerstroke needs. If you dont see what you are looking for on the website, please use the contact page and shoot us a message or
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Part numbers will help alot too if they are not on our site.
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post #25267 of 25474 Old 11-06-2019, 01:39 PM
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I am so aggravated/frustrated at the truck, it still gets hot on me. Today I drove around for over a hour and the highway and in stop and go, and the needle stayed rock solid. Then I came to work, and it gets hot, I did have stop and go traffic for about 5-10 minutes, so in order the Ford fan clutch from Riffraff diesel and will take back the Advance Auto parts fan clutch.

Thanks for listening to my rant
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post #25268 of 25474 Old 11-06-2019, 06:36 PM
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Originally Posted by [email protected] View Post
We are working on a "crate" engine package for people. It wont be cheap, but it also will not be crazy expensive. We are going to do quite a few upgrades over a stock reman like ARP studs, fully balanced rotating assembly, forged rods, new valve train, upgraded springs/pushrods, etc. So basically an out of the box reliable 550hp potential engine. No idea right now when we will have them available though.


That sounds sweet. Ive looked at Swamps for a performance motor which was $16k ish. Stopped looking after picking my jaw up from the floor.
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post #25269 of 25474 Old 11-08-2019, 07:45 PM
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Originally Posted by [email protected] View Post
We are working on a "crate" engine package for people. It wont be cheap, but it also will not be crazy expensive. We are going to do quite a few upgrades over a stock reman like ARP studs, fully balanced rotating assembly, forged rods, new valve train, upgraded springs/pushrods, etc. So basically an out of the box reliable 550hp potential engine. No idea right now when we will have them available though.
Well--I need it NOW!

Did you ever find out what the shop in Pueblo, Colorado changed their name to?


What I did to my truck today: Replaced the cam position sensor. Started the truck--it fired right up and idles for about a minute. I then hit the pedal a bit to rev it, and it hiccuped a bit, then died. It wouldn't fire back up again.

Live in Colorado, wanna Immigrate to Alaska or Wyoming/Idaho border area.
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post #25270 of 25474 Old 11-10-2019, 05:25 AM
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Excursion - removed all the seats, vacuumed and steam cleaned the carpet in preparation for new to me seats. The new ones are Eddie Bauer from an 04, with buckets in the second row. They get to me tomorrow. Transmission service, fluid filter and Mag hitech pan. The transmission cross member has to come down to do it, not nearly as hard as it would appear. Just leaves the seats, track bar and alignment.
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