What did you do to your 7.3 Today? - Page 2482 - Ford Powerstroke Diesel Forum
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post #24811 of 25475 Old 07-17-2019, 10:14 AM
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Originally Posted by TripleStix View Post
Picked up 4 gal of Rotella 15W-40 T6 for the due oil change. The truck has had conventional 15W-40 for the 255k mi on it.

I thought about switching to the T5 a while back... tales/accounts of 7.3's starting to leak after switching to synthetic/synthetic blends have probably been the largest factor in deterring me from switching. Having done the updated International HPOP lines and replaced all 4 of the OEM Eaton fittings with the correct loctite retaining compound per proper procedure, in addition to the turbo R&R w/ non-EBPV pedestal and new orings... I am less concerned with such leaks.

I was surprised a couple months ago to notice T6 was now being produced in the 15W-40 (rather than just the 5w so many have touted as THE oil to use particularly for cold weather starts)... I decided to try to see what forum folks on here and across the internet were saying about it.

Once again I was reminded of the dog fights I have read on countless forums that have erupted from the "which oil is best-est/beter-er for the 7.3" questions. I have seen cleaner political, religious, and women's rights debates on reddit than some of the old threads (on other forums).


At the end of the day, it was on sale for $19/Gal (6$ more than current T4) and deemed acceptable per the Ford WSS-M2C171-F1 declaration. I had a wild hair so I'll give it a whirl.
I thought this was a good read and pertained to your post:
"Go with the SAE and API rating on the pkg. If it's rated 15w40 CJ-4/SM or later, then it doesn't matter if it's made out of castor bean oil or dead dinosaurs or some of each. It can be pure dino, or semi-synthetic, or full synthetic, and it will have exactly the same properties in your engine. 5w40 synthetic is "thinner" only at very cold temps. At operating temps it's the same "thickness" as 15w40 synthetic or dino. So it's okay to use either 5w40 or 15w40 synthetic.

One time I needed an oil change when I was over 2,000 miles from home at a PowerStroke rally near Albany, New York. There was an Amsoil dealer at the rally, and he just happened to have enough Amsoil 15w40 diesel-rated oil with him to change my oil. He sold me an extra oil filter and a coupla extra quarts of oil and advised me to go 3,500 miles and change the filter and add two quarts, then go another 3,500 miles before I changed the oil. Bottom line was that Blackstone chewed me out good for exceeding my 5,500 mile oil change interval (OCI) they had previously established with oil analysis. They said the use of expensive synthetic oil did not change my OCI."

Major brands of synthetic motor oil are good, but they're not cost effective. Your engine will last just as long running clean dino oil as it will running clean synthetic oil. Thousands of 18-wheeler tractors running on dino oil make it to one million miles before their first overhaul. And those spending the extra money for synthetic don't make it any further down the road before their first overhaul.

So change to synthetic motor oil if it will make you feel better. But don't expect a positive return on investment in the long run."
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post #24812 of 25475 Old 07-17-2019, 11:34 AM
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Sparky - thanks for the link. I noticed last year they stopped putting the rewards points code under the cap. Years of savings I think amounted to redeem a giant SHELL ROTELLA decal lol... much rather have the rebate.

MSM - thank you for that info. I actually came across somewhere a quote from a shell rep regarding this T6 15W-40 and essentially they produce it now since so many were concerned that the 5W-40 was too this compared to the specified 15W-40 in warmer conditions EVEN THOUGH the reality is, just as excerpt you shared, at operating temperatures 5W synthetic has relatively same viscosity as the conventional 15W.

Having leaned enough about fluid dynamics and thermodynamics in college to be dangerous, I understand that this is due to the higher VI of the synthetic relative to the conventional. Not considering that just looking at the standard rating of 5W-40 on the label... I understand why a lot of people without very much knowledge on fluid properties would be afraid to use a perceived thinner oil as it is counter intuitive without that understanding. My guess is that the now offered 15W-40 T6 is purely to target that side of the market to feel “comfortable” switching to synthetic w/ that marching/familiar number... it worked on me lol, I never considered it until I did a double take at the new yellow little label. Slick marketing.

However - I am very surprised at the fact it does NOT extend the OCI. I was hoping to extend my typical 3000 mile change to 5000. Now I think I may actually send off a sample (never have) and see what sort of results I get back... may even look back and see just how much $$$ I have been dumping down the drain pan....


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post #24813 of 25475 Old 07-17-2019, 04:46 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MSM View Post
I thought this was a good read and pertained to your post:
"Go with the SAE and API rating on the pkg. If it's rated 15w40 CJ-4/SM or later, then it doesn't matter if it's made out of castor bean oil or dead dinosaurs or some of each. It can be pure dino, or semi-synthetic, or full synthetic, and it will have exactly the same properties in your engine. 5w40 synthetic is "thinner" only at very cold temps. At operating temps it's the same "thickness" as 15w40 synthetic or dino. So it's okay to use either 5w40 or 15w40 synthetic.

One time I needed an oil change when I was over 2,000 miles from home at a PowerStroke rally near Albany, New York. There was an Amsoil dealer at the rally, and he just happened to have enough Amsoil 15w40 diesel-rated oil with him to change my oil. He sold me an extra oil filter and a coupla extra quarts of oil and advised me to go 3,500 miles and change the filter and add two quarts, then go another 3,500 miles before I changed the oil. Bottom line was that Blackstone chewed me out good for exceeding my 5,500 mile oil change interval (OCI) they had previously established with oil analysis. They said the use of expensive synthetic oil did not change my OCI."

Major brands of synthetic motor oil are good, but they're not cost effective. Your engine will last just as long running clean dino oil as it will running clean synthetic oil. Thousands of 18-wheeler tractors running on dino oil make it to one million miles before their first overhaul. And those spending the extra money for synthetic don't make it any further down the road before their first overhaul.

So change to synthetic motor oil if it will make you feel better. But don't expect a positive return on investment in the long run."
You can't compare an OTR truck engine to a light duty pickup like a Powerstroke, Fummins, or DirtyMax, the operating conditions are worlds apart. Also I don't know of any current OTR engines running HEUI injectors, CAT ran em in the C7 that was used in medium duty OTR applications but Cat doesn't make a current OTR engine. HEUI injectors benefit greatly from modern synthetics (and additives like Archoil & RevX). You are correct that modern dino oil is fine, but if I can buy synthetic oil for the same price (after rebate) I'm running synthetic. I haven't seen the difference in my 7.3 that the 6.0 gets but I'm still running it.
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post #24814 of 25475 Old 07-17-2019, 07:09 PM
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Dropped the F-250 off at my diesel guy, and yes it the one I was pissed at over my brakes. I wanted to try these new guys but they wanted to pull the engine to remove the oil pan

I could not believe how bad it is leaking, I was under the truck Sunday tightening the starter bolts, and it was fine. This thing was spewing oil really bad, lost maybe 2 quarts of oil in about 35 miles and the entire underside of the truck is coated with oil.

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post #24815 of 25475 Old 07-17-2019, 08:24 PM
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Originally Posted by hansel View Post
Dropped the F-250 off at my diesel guy, and yes it the one I was pissed at over my brakes. .

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post #24816 of 25475 Old 07-17-2019, 09:28 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hansel View Post
Dropped the F-250 off at my diesel guy, and yes it the one I was pissed at over my brakes. I wanted to try these new guys but they wanted to pull the engine to remove the oil pan

I could not believe how bad it is leaking, I was under the truck Sunday tightening the starter bolts, and it was fine. This thing was spewing oil really bad, lost maybe 2 quarts of oil in about 35 miles and the entire underside of the truck is coated with oil.
You have to pull the engine to do the oil pan on a 7.3.

Some time back Toren said he could do them by pulling the turbo and jacking up the cab and the engine. Granted he's good but the Ford silicone wont seal if it get any oil on it, and with limited room you'll run the risk of smearing the silicone as you try to squeeze the pan back in.
He hasn't been on in a long time but maybe @toren302 will chime in
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post #24817 of 25475 Old 07-17-2019, 10:38 PM
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Had a power steering leak. Took it to the shop. They found the hose between the PS pump and hydroboost unit was leaking. Replaced it - all good so far. The shop owner says it's a common failure. It seems like the brakes are a bit firmer. I'll keep an eye on it. Wanted to get it fixed before vacation next week.
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post #24818 of 25475 Old 07-18-2019, 07:29 AM
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Originally Posted by oilcan1001 View Post
Ya, I know. I could have maybe tackle the leak, but my luck with repairs has been horrible lately. I wanted to give someone else a try but he is crazy wanting to remove the engine, I thought he would have used that aftermarket dieselsite or whoever makes that replacement fitting since he uses their stuff for the hutch mod that he does. Keeping my fingers crossed and throw some new front brake pads on the dually today

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post #24819 of 25475 Old 07-18-2019, 07:47 AM
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I would remove the engine for oil pan job. It really helps having the engine upside down for 24hrs to let the ford grey rtv set. Plus you can re-seal everything so much easier with the engine out. HPOP lines, fuel bowl, up pipes, turbo o rings, plenums, replacing fuel line sleeves, valve cover gaskets, under valve cover harness, injector o rings etc.


Its just me but if I ever have to re seal the oil pan shes coming out for the job because I HATE leaks. People think I am a bit OCD but my 20 year old diesel is leak free besides some oil mist on the intercooler boots. Valley is 100% dry.


ps for anyone interested maybe 2-3 weeks ago I installed Riffraffs ccv re-route kit. no leaks yet but there is a bit of smell/smoke under the cab after a drive. I may add the catch can I have and route back to just get rid of the smell but its not bad, just a thought for future me lol.
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post #24820 of 25475 Old 07-18-2019, 08:03 AM
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I would remove the engine for oil pan job. It really helps having the engine upside down for 24hrs to let the ford grey rtv set. Plus you can re-seal everything so much easier with the engine out. HPOP lines, fuel bowl, up pipes, turbo o rings, plenums, replacing fuel line sleeves, valve cover gaskets, under valve cover harness, injector o rings etc.


Its just me but if I ever have to re seal the oil pan shes coming out for the job because I HATE leaks. People think I am a bit OCD but my 20 year old diesel is leak free besides some oil mist on the intercooler boots. Valley is 100% dry.


ps for anyone interested maybe 2-3 weeks ago I installed Riffraffs ccv re-route kit. no leaks yet but there is a bit of smell/smoke under the cab after a drive. I may add the catch can I have and route back to just get rid of the smell but its not bad, just a thought for future me lol.
I BELIEVE IT IS GUZZLES WHO MOUNTED THE CATCH CAN AT THE REAR OF THE TRUCK.....PAST THE FUEL TANK.....

SEE LINK:....

https://www.guzzle7pt3.com/ccv1.php


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