What did you do to your 7.3 Today? - Page 2481 - Ford Powerstroke Diesel Forum
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post #24801 of 25059 Old 07-16-2019, 02:54 PM
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Originally Posted by Vohs View Post
Is there anything special to consider when doing this rebuild? Like risk for air in lines that can cause a no start condition?
You could pinch an o ring in the fpr and get a leak. I got my kits from riffraff. A few months ago I replaced all the fuel lines sleeves, rebuilt my fpr, and replaced all the o rings in the fuel bowl. I was surprised how much it cleaned up my engine valley. I thought for months I had a small hpop line leak and it was fuel lol.
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post #24802 of 25059 Old 07-16-2019, 03:00 PM
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Originally Posted by JustinOOO9 View Post
You could pinch an o ring in the fpr and get a leak. I got my kits from riffraff. A few months ago I replaced all the fuel lines sleeves, rebuilt my fpr, and replaced all the o rings in the fuel bowl. I was surprised how much it cleaned up my engine valley. I thought for months I had a small hpop line leak and it was fuel lol.

Thankful to have a clean valley now, but if I fudge a ring Iíll be pretty annoyed. Was the riffraff kit a successful thing as far as the spring goes?

to conquer without risk is to triumph without glory.
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post #24803 of 25059 Old 07-16-2019, 03:21 PM
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Not to take away from any other members experience with the Eigthysixd spring, but I just recently put one in and noticed no difference. The one I took out was shorter and less resistance than the new one too. I still do believe it's worth a shot for 25 bucks.
I didnt expect anything real noticeable either, but figured a $25 part was cheap insurance since Ford had a TSB on the subject. My brothers truck had a big change so made it me a believer and I'll be doing mine soon (I planned on it anyway)


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Originally Posted by Vohs View Post
Is there anything special to consider when doing this rebuild? Like risk for air in lines that can cause a no start condition?
No risk like that at all. This is the Fuel Pressure Return line. It lets excess pressure bleed off and go back to the tank. If the spring is weak the bleed off begins at a lower pressure, this in turn does not allow the correct/recommended fuel pressure to reach the injectors (especially #8).
It makes plain sense once you understand the logistics of it.
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post #24804 of 25059 Old 07-16-2019, 03:22 PM
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Originally Posted by JustinOOO9 View Post
You could pinch an o ring in the fpr and get a leak. I got my kits from riffraff. A few months ago I replaced all the fuel lines sleeves, rebuilt my fpr, and replaced all the o rings in the fuel bowl. I was surprised how much it cleaned up my engine valley. I thought for months I had a small hpop line leak and it was fuel lol.
There's also one small gasket for the FPR (wouldn't call it an o ring) that is pretty much a one time use. Poor design. Mine was leaking and I thought it was an oil leak because the diesel dripping was slowly cleaning old residual oil from the valley. Replaced, now dry and clean.
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post #24805 of 25059 Old 07-16-2019, 03:33 PM
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Originally Posted by DesertDiesel View Post
There's also one small gasket for the FPR (wouldn't call it an o ring) that is pretty much a one time use. Poor design. Mine was leaking and I thought it was an oil leak because the diesel dripping was slowly cleaning old residual oil from the valley. Replaced, now dry and clean.
Do you have a pic or part number ?
We checked, re-checked and checked again but didnt find any leaks after the install
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post #24806 of 25059 Old 07-16-2019, 04:13 PM
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Found out my hydro-boost is leaking, along with the power steering pump and the steering gear (again). At least they are under warranty--except for the boost. Back in the shop next Thursday.
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post #24807 of 25059 Old 07-16-2019, 08:02 PM
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Originally Posted by Vohs View Post
Tell me more about this spring! Is there a write up on it somewhere?
Here ya go


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post #24808 of 25059 Old 07-16-2019, 08:06 PM
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Picked up some brake pads for the dually, but tonight when I get home I notice some oil spots in the driveway, I look under the truck and it SOAKED in oil

I'm telling ya, this truck does not want to see 300K, I'm figuring its the oil dipstick, but the front crank seal has leaked for a long time but it never left a spot on the driveway.

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post #24809 of 25059 Old 07-17-2019, 06:49 AM
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Picked up 4 gal of Rotella 15W-40 T6 for the due oil change. The truck has had conventional 15W-40 for the 255k mi on it.

I thought about switching to the T5 a while back... tales/accounts of 7.3's starting to leak after switching to synthetic/synthetic blends have probably been the largest factor in deterring me from switching. Having done the updated International HPOP lines and replaced all 4 of the OEM Eaton fittings with the correct loctite retaining compound per proper procedure, in addition to the turbo R&R w/ non-EBPV pedestal and new orings... I am less concerned with such leaks.

I was surprised a couple months ago to notice T6 was now being produced in the 15W-40 (rather than just the 5w so many have touted as THE oil to use particularly for cold weather starts)... I decided to try to see what forum folks on here and across the internet were saying about it.

Once again I was reminded of the dog fights I have read on countless forums that have erupted from the "which oil is best-est/beter-er for the 7.3" questions. I have seen cleaner political, religious, and women's rights debates on reddit than some of the old threads (on other forums).


At the end of the day, it was on sale for $19/Gal (6$ more than current T4) and deemed acceptable per the Ford WSS-M2C171-F1 declaration. I had a wild hair so I'll give it a whirl.
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post #24810 of 25059 Old 07-17-2019, 07:20 AM
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Originally Posted by TripleStix View Post
Picked up 4 gal of Rotella 15W-40 T6 for the due oil change. The truck has had conventional 15W-40 for the 255k mi on it.

I thought about switching to the T5 a while back... tales/accounts of 7.3's starting to leak after switching to synthetic/synthetic blends have probably been the largest factor in deterring me from switching. Having done the updated International HPOP lines and replaced all 4 of the OEM Eaton fittings with the correct loctite retaining compound per proper procedure, in addition to the turbo R&R w/ non-EBPV pedestal and new orings... I am less concerned with such leaks.

I was surprised a couple months ago to notice T6 was now being produced in the 15W-40 (rather than just the 5w so many have touted as THE oil to use particularly for cold weather starts)... I decided to try to see what forum folks on here and across the internet were saying about it.

Once again I was reminded of the dog fights I have read on countless forums that have erupted from the "which oil is best-est/beter-er for the 7.3" questions. I have seen cleaner political, religious, and women's rights debates on reddit than some of the old threads (on other forums).


At the end of the day, it was on sale for $19/Gal (6$ more than current T4) and deemed acceptable per the Ford WSS-M2C171-F1 declaration. I had a wild hair so I'll give it a whirl.
I've been running 5W40 synthetic in my 7.3 and 6.0 for a while now, I add Archoil every other change in the 6.0 no issues with either truck. I was in town last night so I stopped at Wally world and got 4 gal of T6 15W40 for the upcoming change in the 6.0 I don't drive either one in the winter due to the mass quantities of salt ODOT uses in Ohio's winters, so cold start isn't an issue as much as heat is.
BTW Rotella will give you a $7 a gallon rebate on the oil you just bought, $12a gal after rebate makes synthetic the best option in my opinion.
https://rotella.shell.com/en_us/coup...L0RJWS90NXQ2Lw

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