What did you do to your 7.3 Today? - Page 2477 - Ford Powerstroke Diesel Forum
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post #24761 of 25038 Old 07-10-2019, 07:04 PM
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Hansel - I shared my disdain for the parking brake last week... but those [email protected]?!ing slide pens on our calipers have brought the demons outta me a few times.

It was w/in the last year I went through the rear brakes after rear driver locked up, I thought it was the clutch for a minute but the infrared thermometer indicated otherwise. Discovered it was one of the slide pins, grease was g o n e.

After getting a warranty replacement for it, the passenger side was overheating. Same crap. I ended up replacing them both and those rubber hoses as they were 20 years old and that overheating can turn them into a check valve...

Then the truck started to pull to the right when braking within a week. Slide pin on the passenger side. I finally came unhinged replaced the remaining front 2 calipers (did all pads too) cleaned the fire out of everything, appropriately greased the new pins, and with the assistance of my wonderful wife bled the brakes until all old fluid was nonexistent. Fortunately rotors were fine.

They have been fine since but i made it clear to the local parts house manager when one of them sticks they’re getting them back in pairs.
THAT IS THE ONLY WAY THAT I EVER REPLACE CALIPERS OR ROTORS.....IN PAIRS.....LIKE SHOES OR SOCKS.....
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post #24762 of 25038 Old 07-10-2019, 07:50 PM
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I took out the S&B filter (oiled) today since it is about due for cleaning. The filter sock is really dirty so I have it soaking in the sink. I think that sock protects it a LOT since the filter itself still looks pretty clean. I banged it on the cement porch a few times and some dirt dropped off, but not much. I looked through the inside of the filter to the out and light came through real good--doesn't seem too dirty. I live on a dirt road, too! Anyone else know about these filters and if I could wait another 10k or so before cleaning and re-oiling it?

I also have a nice little hole in the radiator, so it's time to get it replaced. Gonna run me about $750 parts and labor. My blower motor is starting to go as well (can smell it burning up), but at least I can easily replace that myself. When it rains, it pours. I just saved up enough to buy new tires I really need, too.
$750 for a new radiator? Why pay labor, rad install is pretty easy as far as repairs go.

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post #24763 of 25038 Old 07-11-2019, 12:50 AM
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UPS man showed up late this evening... driving from LA to our cabin in NC in the heat last week reminded me I had forgot to research the max ac mod... I have tolerated it fine for years... but with the 3 girls in the back in their car seats.... I felt horrible. Granted, the 4 yo would complain if it’s over 68 and the 2yo twins are too busy fighting or playing. Seriously doubt it gets the cab down to 80 and everything on the ac system is fine.

First time ordering from DieselSite, decided to get his kit after doing some searching, looking forward to installing it in the morning.

While I don’t intend to take down any empirical data... if I hear my 4 yo tell me “daddy I’m too cold” around mid day in GA, AL, and MS this weekend on the way home... that will be my only benchmark required for success lol.


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I just had my AC system replaced and was surprised to find it doesn't get very cold here in South Georgia. Bill Hewett said that putting in a different orifice tube will make it colder.

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post #24764 of 25038 Old 07-11-2019, 06:26 PM
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$750 for a new radiator? Why pay labor, rad install is pretty easy as far as repairs go.
I actually misquoted--total will be about $600. I don't have an enclosed place at my home yet to do it and the wind here is almost always blowing lately--very sandy area.

On top of that, my AC clutch just froze--at least it's a warranty item.
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post #24765 of 25038 Old 07-11-2019, 06:32 PM
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Got the Max Ac heater core shutoff deal installed. Took it for a spin up here in the blue ridge mountains just to ensure no coolant leaking.

It was around 65-70 outside up here so can’t really make any observation on perceived effectiveness.


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post #24766 of 25038 Old 07-11-2019, 06:34 PM
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What did you do to your 7.3 Today?

Nice temps compared to here. I ordered one of the heater core shutoff valves from Dieselsite.


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post #24767 of 25038 Old 07-11-2019, 06:38 PM
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Got the Max Ac heater core shutoff deal installed. Took it for a spin up here in the blue ridge mountains just to ensure no coolant leaking.

It was around 65-70 outside up here so can’t really make any observation on perceived effectiveness.


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Nice temps compared to here. I ordered one of the heater core shutoff valves from Dieselsite.


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This one mechanic was saying that the (blend) doors there should shut off the heater core from the A/C when it is on.

I checked out the dieselsite one, and it just shuts off the flow to the heater core. Doesn't the coolant still have to flow through the entire system to keep from overheating the engine?
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post #24768 of 25038 Old 07-11-2019, 06:54 PM
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Originally Posted by forthehalibut View Post
This one mechanic was saying that the (blend) doors there should shut off the heater core from the A/C when it is on.

I checked out the dieselsite one, and it just shuts off the flow to the heater core. Doesn't the coolant still have to flow through the entire system to keep from overheating the engine?
No blocking the heater circuit has no effect on cooling the engine. It'll have colder AC if the hot water isn't flowing thru the heater box.
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1993 F150 4x4, 302 5 speed, winter truck


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post #24769 of 25038 Old 07-11-2019, 07:07 PM
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Originally Posted by forthehalibut View Post
This one mechanic was saying that the (blend) doors there should shut off the heater core from the A/C when it is on.



I checked out the dieselsite one, and it just shuts off the flow to the heater core. Doesn't the coolant still have to flow through the entire system to keep from overheating the engine?


My understanding is that the heater core is there just to heat the cab. Blocking the supply line to the heater core from the WP means you won’t have any return from the heater core.. but still more substantial/important flow through the much larger upper and lower radiator hoses when the thermostat is actuated, and subsequently cooled by the radiator.

I would expect most modern vehicles have some sort of isolator similar to the concept of the DieselSite deal, to serve the same purpose of more effective & efficient cooling. My understanding is that is exactly what Ford did after (I think the date I read) 2002. That Oem part can be hard to come by and based on my research the DieselSite setup is far better quality than what one can gather up at local part house.

The one point I came across was with people using a ball valve setup or leaving their truck on max ac all summer and having their heater cores corrode due to stagnant fluid sitting up.

I religiously switch my climate control to “off” as dad always griped that leaving it on put more strain starting. Truth or not, I do it. And I often just roll the windows down early in the morning since my commute is <5 min...


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post #24770 of 25038 Old 07-11-2019, 07:22 PM
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Nice temps compared to here. I ordered one of the heater core shutoff valves from Dieselsite.


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The only finicky step was fishing up the vacuum line from the cab under glove box around the fan. I had a piece of copper wire and, thankfully, an extra set of eyes/hands. Took about 25 min.

I can say that after heating the truck up and climbing some decent hills, there was a noticeable increase in the amount the windows fogged up... and the differential of reg ac to max ac was definitely increased a noticeable amount, indicating it is functioning as intended.

...But the real test will be at highway speeds in “feels like 110F” before I try to skirt around Barry this weekend.





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