What did you do to your 7.3 Today? - Page 2472 - Ford Powerstroke Diesel Forum
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post #24711 of 25302 Old 06-29-2019, 08:39 PM
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Originally Posted by oilcan1001 View Post
Hey all, I've been offline for a couple months and recently started catching up.


I came across this upgrade and havent heard of it before. Is it really worth it ?
Both of my trucks are idling smoother and better throttle response, and since my F-250 has almost 300K I figured the spring was worn out anyway.

2001 7.3L CCSRW 4X4
2003 7.3L CCDRW
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post #24712 of 25302 Old 06-29-2019, 09:03 PM
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Originally Posted by Bri_Man57 View Post
I guess 15k miles is too much for the fuel filter? Or is that oil?

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Looks like oil to me. My fuel filter is almost the exact same color after 10-15k as it is new in the box.

How much oil do you have to add between changes? Normally injector o rings being replaced solves that issue ASAP.

Do not and I repeat do not use generic brand O-ring kits. Get some Alliant or motorcraft from riffraff diesel etc

-99 F250, 4X4, 6.0 trans cooler, 08 mirrors, 05 grill, AIS Intake, lvl kit, JW Vbody, cncfab hpop lines, WW2.

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"Its like me getting five 5 gallon bucks and throwing regular, mid, premium, #2 diesel and offroad diesel and then shooting a roman candle at each one to show which ones burns better."
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post #24713 of 25302 Old 06-30-2019, 12:03 PM
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Truck is at the shop getting ball joints, new power stop rotors, hawk SD pads, and 5 layer SS brake lines installed. Once this is done time to start 08 dash swap and update the interior.
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early 99 Red F-250 XL SD, 7.3L, 6-speed manual, Extended Cab, Long Bed, 4x4 Off Road, and Reflexxion Cowl Hood, Ion Alloy 183 wheels, 05 headlights with 6000k AC HID kit, and led turn signals, Ford ASI filter w/ zoodad mod and foam sleeve, TS 6 position chip, Auto Meter Z series Boost and EGT gauges, 08 Ford Mirrors, and straight pipe diamond eye 5in exhaust. .
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post #24714 of 25302 Old 07-01-2019, 11:10 AM
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Originally Posted by JustinOOO9 View Post
Looks like oil to me. My fuel filter is almost the exact same color after 10-15k as it is new in the box.

How much oil do you have to add between changes? Normally injector o rings being replaced solves that issue ASAP.

Do not and I repeat do not use generic brand O-ring kits. Get some Alliant or motorcraft from riffraff diesel etc
That's the thing, I don't add ANY oil between changes. Worst it's been is toward the low end of the hash marks before changing.

And I realized the pic may look more black than brown, but the filter is more brown and that fuel bowl had all kinds of dirty crap in there.

Quote:
Originally Posted by DaveP. View Post
I'm pretty sure it's biocidal growth. I go 30K on fuel filters and they are barely colored. DieselKleen is supposedly good for cleaning the tank and getting biocidal growth under control, but carry spare filters. In the yachts, when we begin a program to deal with growth using biocides, it can really go through filters as the bugs are killed and end up in the filters Generally, after a few tank fulls, the growth is gone, and filter life returns to normal intervals.

"Oil" won't look like that on the filter, as diesel fuel will dilute and clean it off. Ie, oil can't "collect" on the filter in the presence of diesel fuel as a solvent. But biocidal growth sure can. I've seen this black grunge in lots of boats, tanks, and filters. Always biological growth.

I think you're on to something as I mentioned above, the filter was more brown than black. And the fuel bowl had a decent amount of crud in there. Enough for me to take the heater and post out so I could get it cleaned with a rag. Might be time to add some additive. I was running diesel keen pretty regularly but then it got expensive/hard to buy on amazon so I've been letting it slide. I have been using this other stuff, but you only use it at oil change intervals so might need to source some diesel keen again.

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post #24715 of 25302 Old 07-01-2019, 11:33 AM
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Replaced the original idler pulley at 283k.

That ball bearing was crunchy lol it wasn’t long for the world.

Going to replace the in line magnefine filter this week as well.

We have towed a lot the last 2 months. A few more trips planned and definitely trying to head off any issues


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99.5 f250 7.3 4x4 279k FF 160/30, Hydra w/SDK Tunes, S&B, 4" Exhaust, Van Turbo w/Riffraff Billet Wheel, Autometer Gauges, Built trans, 08 Tow Mirrors, Trucool Max.

Dad- 2000 F250 7.3 4x4 124k Autometer Gauges, Superchips 1705 (Tow Safe), K&N Intake w/Amsoil Filter, 4" Exhaust, BD Billet Wheel, Trucool Max, Modified VB, 08 Tow Mirrors.
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post #24716 of 25302 Old 07-01-2019, 12:27 PM
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Been having issues with all my windows not working. Sometimes they do, sometimes they don't. Checked the 30A Circuit breaker in the Power Distribution Box under the hood - that is good. Experimented a bit. I found the windows work when the driver's door is open, but not when it's closed. So....I GET to check the wiring harness going into the door. Fingers crossed it's in a place that will be easy to get to and repair....knock on wood.
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post #24717 of 25302 Old 07-01-2019, 06:24 PM
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Got the parking break shoes replaced and the rear axleshaft seals replaced as well--that's what was messing up the parking break set. Had it done at the stealership, and they had to keep it overnight since they got the wrong parts for it three times(wrong shaft seals)!

The parking break doesn't alwasy fully set when I push it down--it sometimes just pops right back up like it did before taking it in. Will see what happens in the next day or two. Also am keeping an eye on the rear wheels to see if any fluid gets on them.
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Live in Colorado, wanna Immigrate to Alaska or Wyoming/Idaho border area.
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post #24718 of 25302 Old 07-01-2019, 07:30 PM
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Originally Posted by forthehalibut View Post
Got the parking break shoes replaced and the rear axleshaft seals replaced as well--that's what was messing up the parking break set. Had it done at the stealership, and they had to keep it overnight since they got the wrong parts for it three times(wrong shaft seals)!



The parking break doesn't alwasy fully set when I push it down--it sometimes just pops right back up like it did before taking it in. Will see what happens in the next day or two. Also am keeping an eye on the rear wheels to see if any fluid gets on them.


I went through the pain of replacing mine a few years back. For some reason I didnít realize needed certain tools (spindle socket, puller) and had to drive back to part house.

Unfortunately, once again mine is still absolutely worthless - Horrible design in my professional opinion. Probably suitable for a Focus. I just gave up and forgot it exists. Having a manual I just leave it in gear but wish it functioned so I could trust leaving it in neutral and idle during the summer heat. Instead, I just keep a short piece of an old 8x8 post I use as a chock.


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Modifications:
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Garrett GTP38 High Flow Outlet
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Isspro EV2 Fuel, Boost, & EGT gauges
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post #24719 of 25302 Old 07-02-2019, 06:28 AM
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Originally Posted by forthehalibut View Post
Got the parking break shoes replaced and the rear axleshaft seals replaced as well--that's what was messing up the parking break set. Had it done at the stealership, and they had to keep it overnight since they got the wrong parts for it three times(wrong shaft seals)!



The parking break doesn't alwasy fully set when I push it down--it sometimes just pops right back up like it did before taking it in. Will see what happens in the next day or two. Also am keeping an eye on the rear wheels to see if any fluid gets on them.
How much did the parking brake set you back?

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post #24720 of 25302 Old 07-02-2019, 06:51 PM
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Originally Posted by guitarnut View Post
How much did the parking brake set you back?

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Parking brake and shaft seals replacement totaled $580.21

Live in Colorado, wanna Immigrate to Alaska or Wyoming/Idaho border area.
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