Do I need a boost fooler? - Ford Powerstroke Diesel Forum
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post #1 of 27 Old 01-21-2020, 08:50 PM Thread Starter
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Do I need a boost fooler?

So today I was changing the wastegate lines and solenoid with new ones and the nipple on my wastegate broke off (go figure) since it was rusty. Not a terrible ordeal since this is a popular mod anyway. I wrapped the end of the line with electrical tape to block it off.

In stock tune I'm now able to hit 25+ psi of boost (my boost gauge only goes up to 25 since i'm using torque pro) but the truck feels like it is severely defueling. I can barely go past 60mph even though i'm hitting 25+ psi. When I turn my hydra on to any tune but their stock tune all is normal and the truck doesn't defuel. Honestly my turbo behaves a lot better with the hydra now. I know PHP turns off the defueling with their tunes guess just not the stock tune.

I use my stock tune quite often, a lot more then the hydra itself. Would a MAP sensor boost fooler make my stock tune normal and not defuel? If so, which one is better? I see there is two different kinds, electrical and mechanical.

Mods: Stock housing, EBPV delete and high flow outlet, KC turbo 360 bearings, KC WW2.

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post #2 of 27 Old 01-22-2020, 02:49 AM
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If you decide you need one, I have one from Riff Raff that was on my truck for 2 days while I was sourcing some vacuum type issues. I'll give you a deal on if that interests you.

https://www.riffraffdiesel.com/ocr-o...gulator-99-03/
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post #3 of 27 Old 01-22-2020, 05:09 AM
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Id be interested too, definitely need a boost fooler after 160/30s & tunes


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post #4 of 27 Old 01-22-2020, 10:34 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by SMOKEYBEAR View Post
If you decide you need one, I have one from Riff Raff that was on my truck for 2 days while I was sourcing some vacuum type issues. I'll give you a deal on if that interests you.

https://www.riffraffdiesel.com/ocr-o...gulator-99-03/
Possibly. Did you cut the lines already? I know most people cut the lines on that one since they're long.

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post #5 of 27 Old 01-22-2020, 11:11 AM
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Id be interested too, definitely need a boost fooler after 160/30s & tunes


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If it's tuned you don't need a boost fooler, the tuning does it for you.

00 f250 ext. cab, lb, 4x4, 170,000, zf 6 speed, South Bend 1944ofe, 4 in lift, 315/75/16 Courser MXTs, rear Detroit locker, PMF traction bars, Full Force 180/80 injectors, KC 300x 63/73/.84 turbo, PHP Hydra, Riff Raff frx,, Dieselsite pre pump kit, Dorman up pipes,IAH delete, ccv mod, 6637 filter, Auto Meter gauges, Edge CS2, 4 in diamod eye straight pipe 6 in tip.
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post #6 of 27 Old 01-22-2020, 01:38 PM
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That seems to be a gray area. I have Jelibuilt tunes, and he does recommend a boost fooler. And I do get a SES light when I overboost. So Im not sure if I need one or not. Maybe he does it this way to sell more products ?


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post #7 of 27 Old 01-22-2020, 02:06 PM
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For the stock ecm programming a boost fooler will help esp in your situation. My truck stays in the stock file 99% of the time. For others with a tune and a boost fooler though, A properly written tune for the 7.3l does not need a boost fooler. The tuning is not correct and if a tuner tells you to get a boost fooler go with someone else period... Horizon, did you get the random code/your idm looked at yet too? I could be remembering the wrong person though sorry.

-99 F250, 4X4, 6.0 trans cooler, 08 mirrors, 05 grill, AIS Intake, lvl kit, JW Vbody, cncfab hpop lines, WW2.

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Last edited by JustinOOO9; 01-22-2020 at 02:10 PM.
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post #8 of 27 Old 01-22-2020, 08:20 PM Thread Starter
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For the stock ecm programming a boost fooler will help esp in your situation. My truck stays in the stock file 99% of the time. For others with a tune and a boost fooler though, A properly written tune for the 7.3l does not need a boost fooler. The tuning is not correct and if a tuner tells you to get a boost fooler go with someone else period... Horizon, did you get the random code/your idm looked at yet too? I could be remembering the wrong person though sorry.
I'm on the fence between a boost fooler and a 33psi wastegate. With the red line disconnected mixed with my mods the turbo spools like a 747 at full throttle. I know my mods can probably handle it but everytime I let off the gas it makes a lot of turbo bark and if I beat on it in traffic I can get it to sputter for a second on just a php 65hp performance tune. I'm afraid of reliability down the road. I cant take how it acts on the stock file because of the defueling.

I did a buzz test and it was a P1245 code. I'm still getting it when driving. CEL goes on anything more then half throttle with boost and goes out as soon as I lift. Once the truck is at full operating temp. 140 oil temp or whatever it is it never comes back unless i let the truck sit and get cold again. I was talking to the shop who did all my injectors etc and they think it could be the idm going out, a voltage drop or bad ground or a shorted out injector circuit but that is the least likely. My injectors are brand new internationals not fords or remanned..... since it's not effecting driveability I'm thinking it's a wire that probably rubbed through. I've found 2 other threads that are really old where the OP's had the same symptoms but they recently put in bigger remanned aftermarket injectors and one of the injector amperature plates didnt have enough clearance and was hitting the circuit or something like that. It's cold out now and I dont have a garage so I dont feel like pulling the valve covers or chase wiring to find out.

Since this red line mod my mpg has actually went up a lot and I got almost 16 highway cruising at 80, 65 performance tune.

For the longest time I've been getting a p1249 which is why I bothered changing the solenoid and lines. I also get the AIH code and just bought the code eliminator wire for it as I dont want any soft codes. Maybe fixing these two codes will fix this P1245 since my truck is weird like that.

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Last edited by Horizon122; 01-22-2020 at 08:26 PM.
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post #9 of 27 Old 01-23-2020, 03:46 AM
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Originally Posted by Horizon122 View Post
Possibly. Did you cut the lines already? I know most people cut the lines on that one since they're long.
I don't remember cutting them, I'll look at it later today and measure the two lines, maybe take a picture or two.
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post #10 of 27 Old 01-23-2020, 08:06 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Horizon122 View Post
I'm on the fence between a boost fooler and a 33psi wastegate. With the red line disconnected mixed with my mods the turbo spools like a 747 at full throttle. I know my mods can probably handle it but everytime I let off the gas it makes a lot of turbo bark and if I beat on it in traffic I can get it to sputter for a second on just a php 65hp performance tune. I'm afraid of reliability down the road. I cant take how it acts on the stock file because of the defueling.

I did a buzz test and it was a P1245 code. I'm still getting it when driving. CEL goes on anything more then half throttle with boost and goes out as soon as I lift. Once the truck is at full operating temp. 140 oil temp or whatever it is it never comes back unless i let the truck sit and get cold again. I was talking to the shop who did all my injectors etc and they think it could be the idm going out, a voltage drop or bad ground or a shorted out injector circuit but that is the least likely. My injectors are brand new internationals not fords or remanned..... since it's not effecting driveability I'm thinking it's a wire that probably rubbed through. I've found 2 other threads that are really old where the OP's had the same symptoms but they recently put in bigger remanned aftermarket injectors and one of the injector amperature plates didnt have enough clearance and was hitting the circuit or something like that. It's cold out now and I dont have a garage so I dont feel like pulling the valve covers or chase wiring to find out.

Since this red line mod my mpg has actually went up a lot and I got almost 16 highway cruising at 80, 65 performance tune.

For the longest time I've been getting a p1249 which is why I bothered changing the solenoid and lines. I also get the AIH code and just bought the code eliminator wire for it as I dont want any soft codes. Maybe fixing these two codes will fix this P1245 since my truck is weird like that.

Too improve the stock driving conditions the boost fooler and just tightening the wastegate rod a few turns would be a nice improvement, no need for the 33psi wastegate. The boost fooler technically negates it etc. Just my beliefs thoughs. I too have had the red tube unplugged and capped and noticed a big driving improvement. I would barley hit 15-16psi towing heavy and drove me nuts. now I can do 21psi steady and every so often I'll get the wastegate/overboost code but running stock programming you'll never hurt anything to affect reliability.

My current set up:

stock turbo with ww2 wheel, red tube unplugged and capped, wastegate rod tightened 3.5ish turns. I can get the overboost cel if im really working the truck empty or towing but its very rare now. The turbo bark can be greatly reduced by rolling off the throttle slowly. I can get my truck to bark on command almost by the throttle imput being heavy then the sudden let off at the peak of a shift. But if you practice rolling the throttle off smoothly you'll never get it, plus its not hurting anything. its the turbo shudder you don't want.

Here is the overboost code regulator I was going to get, just never got around to it. https://www.riffraffdiesel.com/ocr-o...SABEgIZFvD_BwE

I will be getting it this summer as I will be using a truck camper and towing a 4runner /side by side behind me for some trips so I can finaly justify more enginebay bling that really ehlps lol.

-99 F250, 4X4, 6.0 trans cooler, 08 mirrors, 05 grill, AIS Intake, lvl kit, JW Vbody, cncfab hpop lines, WW2.

04 Excursion Modified, 04 F350 Modified, 06 F350 Modified

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"Its like me getting five 5 gallon bucks and throwing regular, mid, premium, #2 diesel and offroad diesel and then shooting a roman candle at each one to show which ones burns better."

Last edited by JustinOOO9; 01-23-2020 at 08:19 AM.
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