Hey guys, I bought a used 2000 engine with 176k miles that I’m completely resealing and doing some performance mods on before I drop it in my truck
I removed the HPOP reservoir and found this in the screen. Is this a normal amount of gunk or should I be concerned? Really not wanting to totally tear this engine down
I've only had 2 of those screens out over the years, but neither one looked like that... that crud would have me concerned. What is its texture, gritty, slimy.... ?
I’m gonna do a compression test before I move forward with it. My current engine is a junky jasper reman with around 90k on it
And it seems mostly like small pieces of silicone that flaked off over the years, maybe from the oil pan. Some shiny bits, but 90% is that black crud that looks like old silicone to me
Really torn with what I wanna do. I’ll be replacing the oil pan so I’ll be able to see if there is more crap in there
Jasper is junk, after 70k miles my injector cups started leaking and my oil pan too. Among a bunch of other small leaks. And all the paint is flaking off. I wouldn’t pay $12k for a jasper engine in my worst nightmares. Look up the horror stories online. Plus it has a lot more blowby than I think it should have with less than 100k. My dads has 300k and I’d say blowby is about equal. I’m sure they just toss pistons and rings in without properly measuring the bores
And yes I know. I investigated more and none of the pieces are magnetic. And I found some small fibers that look like the paper in an oil filter....still weighing my options
I saved some oil from it that I might send off to have analyzed
Forthehalibut got a complete engine, turbo, fuel bowl, sensors, lines, injectors, etc installed for around $12k with a 2 year unlimited mile warranty. To me, it seems like that is a bit pricey but the safest and problem free way to go.
What would you recommend for an engine or transmission if Jasper isn't any good. Keeping cost in mind. Halibut wasn't looking for a some horsepower built engine.
For the engine (12k) and tranny work he was in for 15k but as long as Jasper isn't junk he should go another 200k easy.
Just curious about the alternatives that are cost effective. At 240k, I suspect that this will be me someday. Halibut had 400k on his. If I get to 400k I'll be happy as it'll take me 10 years.
The best engine is one you put together yourself, so you know the machine work is done correctly. Or a known good used one. Miller’s Machine Shop does good work too
My first guess would be that the original owner wasn't a big fan of oil changes OR, didn't realize that there really is a big difference between oil designed for Diesel and Gasoline and just put in whatever he found (or didn't spend a few extra $$$ and get some decent oil, but for my money he probably tried to consistently get 25k miles out of dollar store 5W40 and cheapo filters (if he changed them at all - hey they have a bypass in them so you never lose oil pressure - :doh:
Preparing for a compression test this weekend. I have the hpop, reservoir, and gear removed. When I crank it for the test, what should I do to contain the oil? I’m not sure with how much pressure the oil supply from the LPOP will push oil up through the HPOP supply passage.
Don’t want to make a huge mess, but don’t want to install the hpop for the test, as I’d have to buy the lines before knowing the engine is good
I’m ready to do a compression test now, but I need the special 7.3 tool to get down in the glow plug hole to connect to a harbor freight compression tool
Will this work? In reviews people are complaining about it not having a schrader valve, is that necessary with the harbor freight gauge?
That pic shows a grease gun hose and some adapter fittings
while it will work, the lack of the check valve on the end will cause the readings to be low
that is not a bit problem, as long as you understand.
To get an accurate reading you will need a check valve in the glow plug hole adapter -- looking for 380-420 psi
but, what is important here is that the readings on the cylinders are close to the same on each cylinder,
one with a significant drop in pressure has a problem
Makes sense. I’m not sure how much of a drop I’ll get without the check valve, but I’m hoping for around 350 psi each
I’m beginning to debate if I should simply put a starter on and crank it to see if it sounds even, vs actually looking at the compression numbers. If they’re going to be low anyway...
you can tell a lot by listening to the crank sounds, evenness is what your listening for
tho not cylinder pressure -- that is only with a gauge
your hose setup will allow the pressure to back off that is in the hose
not much, but that depends on the gauge -- only takes al little to operate the gauge, so only takes a little to make it read low
smaller gauge = more difference -- larger gauge = less difference
I would still use that setup, just with the knowledge it was gonna read low
your looking for consistency
Im attempting to crank the engine on a stand today. I have batteries hooked to the starter. I am touching positive power to the starter and am getting it to spin, but not engage in the flex plate
What all needs to get power in order for it to throw the gear into the flex plate as well as crank the engine?
Does the small trigger pole on the solenoid need 12v power as well?
So on the back of the starter there are Two big terminals (bat cable size). One is on the starter motor, the other on the Bendix (the actuator that moves the gear into the flexplate teeth). BUT,,, that actuator needs to make a magnetic field to move the gear (that's what the sm wire terminal supplies, that magnetic coil inside the Bendix)
You want to connect battery power to to the large terminal on the Bendix (and the starter won't spin) and then, with a little jumper wire, put 12v into the sm terminal (energize the coil, move the metal slug onto the field which is connected to the gear and moves it into the flexplate, and then sends power to the starter motor)
It's a wonderful system that's worked well for decades!
My next issue is finding a way to contain the oil that is pumped into the hpop reservoir and turbo. I shoved hoses in them and directed them into their returns, but the oil pressure is too great and blew them off
I can’t do the test before I figure this out, and I’m not willing to buy a spare turbo & pedestal and such to “cap” them correctly
The turbo port, you can just plug - lots of ways to do this, but something secure so it wont blow out and 'put an eye out" would be good
cranking pressure is minimal, so shouldn't take much to hold
You have the HPOP removed??
should not turn the engine without the pump in position, the pump centers the drive gear in the housing -- damage to the gears or housing will result
Yes it’s on a stand, that’s why this has been interesting to accomplish. Thanks for the info on the starter, I put a jumper wire on and it worked great
So I can just cap that turbo oil supply and it won’t hurt anything? I was trying to direct the oil with a hose back into the turbo return
And HPOP gear is removed, I didn’t want it to bind on the cam gear while cranking
What do you guys think of these numbers? They are kind of all over the place. I think the Harbor Freight gauge was causing the misreadings though
Sometimes the check valve would hold it at a certain pressure and then with each crank the numbers would go up, and other times it would lose pressure every time
Thoughts?
I expected the numbers to be lower than spec due to the compression adapter I’m using, as well as how fast (or should I say slow) the engine was spinning
It honestly sounds like it would be worth talking to a shop to barrow their compression tester. You'd be amazed at what a smile and some beer can get you these days especially if you only need it for a day they are closed or something.
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