Php Hydra chip - Page 2 - Ford Powerstroke Diesel Forum
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post #11 of 57 Old 11-25-2019, 12:01 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by 00t444e View Post
Then don't put any tuner or programmer on it. Just do an intake and exhaust upgrade and enjoy your truck.
Why do I need gauges unless I am going to hotrod, roll coal, or tow? I'd just use the 65 or 100 hp daily driver.

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post #12 of 57 Old 11-25-2019, 12:39 PM
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Originally Posted by guitarnut View Post
Why do I need gauges unless I am going to hotrod, roll coal, or tow? I'd just use the 65 or 100 hp daily driver.

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Because your operating outside factory design parameters and you need gauges so you can spot a problem before you damage your engine or transmission, gauges are good to have even on a stock truck, they are a necessity on a tuned truck.

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post #13 of 57 Old 11-25-2019, 12:43 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by 00t444e View Post
Because your operating outside factory design parameters and you need gauges so you can spot a problem before you damage your engine or transmission, gauges are good to have even on a stock truck, they are a necessity on a tuned truck.
Well I guess I am not installing a php hydra then. I would hope that factory gauges would be fine unless I was hot rodding.

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post #14 of 57 Old 11-25-2019, 01:05 PM
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*If* it were me, I would have at least 1 extra gauge if I were to install any type of tune and that would be EGT's.

However, if you are serious, and won't hotrod or tow anything with any other setting than 'stock' - you could still put the hydra on and be thrilled with it.

Setting 0 = stock. So, if you ever want to tow, use that and then you don't have to worry about it.

All the other settings can be what you want - and if you use your truck they way you're describing - then do it. If you truly don't hotrod, you'll be fine. And it will wake the truck up.

As you can see below - I've done a fair bit of modifications to get mine into heavy towing. But as I've said, if you just want a bit more response, do it. Of all the mods, that one had the most immediately noticeable difference.

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post #15 of 57 Old 11-25-2019, 01:10 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Arizona_SVO View Post
*If* it were me, I would have at least 1 extra gauge if I were to install any type of tune and that would be EGT's.

However, if you are serious, and won't hotrod or tow anything with any other setting than 'stock' - you could still put the hydra on and be thrilled with it.

Setting 0 = stock. So, if you ever want to tow, use that and then you don't have to worry about it.

All the other settings can be what you want - and if you use your truck they way you're describing - then do it. If you truly don't hotrod, you'll be fine. And it will wake the truck up.

As you can see below - I've done a fair bit of modifications to get mine into heavy towing. But as I've said, if you just want a bit more response, do it. Of all the mods, that one had the most immediately noticeable difference.
Thanks. I keep thinking about buying a new ram Cummins but I just dumped money in GPS, ac, ucvh, rear main, oil pan gasket, wheel bearing, etc. I'm into the truck around 15k and I'll never get that out in trade or selling it. I'm thinking the Hydra will reignite my love of my truck. It's just so who-dang slow. No blowby or anything. I'm thinking a little extra pep in her step will keep me smiling.

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post #16 of 57 Old 11-25-2019, 01:15 PM
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Bare minimum you would need an 4" turbo back exhaust and a cold air intake (S&B, AFE or 6637). Otherwise ya'll blow your turbo even without towing or climbing grades. You WILL experience turbo stutter when towing and climbing hills. You'll need turbo upgrades to remedy that.

You do need some type of monitor; torque app, cts2, physical gauges, etc. Especially since you want to remain as stock as possible. The stock setup is very restrictive and the more stock you remain the higher temps will increase at a faster rate. Unless you like siting on the side of the highway with a blown tranny or turbo.

If you don't want to have to worry about temps and monitoring then you're going to want a built tranny with a Mishimoto or 6.0 trans cooler. Upgraded turbo parts from KC Turbo (360 degree bearings, billet wheel) and Garret (high flow outlet, ebpv delete), AIH delete, foil delete, and new IH up-pipes to start, basically everything to get EGT's as low as possible and keep the hydra no more then the 65hp setting.

Factory gauges don't monitor egt's or boost and the tranny will cook past 220 degrees before the needle moves.

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post #17 of 57 Old 11-25-2019, 01:22 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Horizon122 View Post
Bare minimum you would need an 4" turbo back exhaust and a cold air intake (S&B, AFE or 6637). Otherwise ya'll blow your turbo even without towing or climbing grades. You WILL experience turbo stutter when towing and climbing hills. You'll need turbo upgrades to remedy that.

You do need some type of monitor; torque app, cts2, physical gauges, etc. Especially since you want to remain as stock as possible. The stock setup is very restrictive and the more stock you remain the higher temps will increase at a faster rate. Unless you like siting on the side of the highway with a blown tranny or turbo.

If you don't want to have to worry about temps and monitoring then you're going to want a built tranny with a Mishimoto or 6.0 trans cooler. Upgraded turbo parts from KC Turbo (360 degree bearings, billet wheel) and Garret (high flow outlet, ebpv delete), AIH delete, foil delete, and new IH up-pipes to start, basically everything to get EGT's as low as possible and keep the hydra no more then the 65hp setting.

Factory gauges don't monitor egt's or boost and the tranny will cook past 220 degrees before the needle moves.
I have the turbo back exhaust. I got that for sound only but it didn't make it sound like my old obs 95. I don't want the 6637 or other intake. My goal was to be simple and just get some extra pep. I guess I got my answer and shouldn't mess with the php Hydra.

Maybe I'll call @[email protected] and see what he says. I'd order it from him anyway.

Dang...I was really hoping this would work out. I think about it like getting my wife a boob job...respark my interest but the Hydra is way cheaper than the boob job.

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post #18 of 57 Old 11-25-2019, 01:47 PM
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Originally Posted by guitarnut View Post
I have the turbo back exhaust. I got that for sound only but it didn't make it sound like my old obs 95. I don't want the 6637 or other intake. My goal was to be simple and just get some extra pep. I guess I got my answer and shouldn't mess with the php Hydra.

Maybe I'll call @[email protected] and see what he says. I'd order it from him anyway.

Dang...I was really hoping this would work out. I think about it like getting my wife a boob job...respark my interest but the Hydra is way cheaper than the boob job.

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Most people go with an aluminium exhaust. I went with a full T304 SS straight pipe kit from MBRP, sounds a lot different and more meatier then other exhausts but pricey at nearly $1K for pipe. An intake is like step 1 with any build of any kind. You can't increase fuel without increasing air and vice versa. Otherwise it will run too rich or too lean. Ford does make a serve duty intake that came with a specific package from factory. People that do light builds retain them and claim they work well.

https://www.dieselpowerproducts.com/...RoC9SAQAvD_BwE

Hydra isn't the problem. Its if you want to retain the longevity that the 7.3 is known for.

Also how many miles are on your truck? Maybe you just have unaware issues like a boost leak or sticking injector?

Even though I have a hydra and every mod in the book I still run my truck on the stock setting most of the time and i'm the one who's doing the passing, not getting passed. I only put the hydra on if someone in a sports car thinks they need to prove its faster then a 10k lb truck, which in 99% of cases its not....

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post #19 of 57 Old 11-25-2019, 01:58 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Horizon122 View Post
Most people go with an aluminium exhaust. I went with a full T304 SS straight pipe kit from MBRP, sounds a lot different and more meatier then other exhausts but pricey at nearly $1K for pipe. An intake is like step 1 with any build of any kind. You can't increase fuel without increasing air and vice versa. Otherwise it will run too rich or too lean. Ford does make a serve duty intake that came with a specific package from factory. People that do light builds retain them and claim they work well.



https://www.dieselpowerproducts.com/...RoC9SAQAvD_BwE



Hydra isn't the problem. Its if you want to retain the longevity that the 7.3 is known for.



Also how many miles are on your truck? Maybe you just have unaware issues like a boost leak or sticking injector?



Even though I have a hydra and every mod in the book I still run my truck on the stock setting most of the time and i'm the one who's doing the passing, not getting passed. I only put the hydra on if someone in a sports car thinks they need to prove its faster then a 10k lb truck, which in 99% of cases its not....
Thanks for the excellent reply. I have 230k. I absolutely want to retain the longevity of the 7.3. I would like to get to 300k or 350k.

I don't want to do the intake. I like the factory one. My goal with the Hydra is just to wake it up and give it some pep. A pep and wake up for $300 is well worth it. It's not worth sacrificing the longevity.

Do you think it's worth it if I don't do the intake? I may down the road but no time soon. Also, if I want to make 300k on my original engine, tranny, and injectors would the Hydra possibly sacrifice this?

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post #20 of 57 Old 11-25-2019, 02:01 PM
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Originally Posted by 00t444e View Post
The Hydra makes a huge difference, but don't buy one until you have gauges.
i dont have gauges. about 60,000 miles with the hydra

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