Fuel in coolant - Ford Powerstroke Diesel Forum
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post #1 of 10 Old 10-15-2019, 09:13 PM Thread Starter
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Fuel in coolant

Looking for wear to start this repair so I donít miss a step. Looks like this is has mixed with my coolant real good. Also wanted opinions on the stainless steel injector cups Riffraff diesel is selling. Fuel in coolant-img_0631.jpg


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post #2 of 10 Old 10-16-2019, 07:57 AM
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Funny. I just had that discussion with my machine shop as I'm having some 7.3 heads surfaced and seats done. He told me that the stainless cups are for the pulling guys as they'll withstand the sudden thermal load. Then he said that for anything but racing, the brass cups were the way to go because they transfer heat much better and cool the injector cups much better. It makes sense when you think about it.


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post #3 of 10 Old 10-16-2019, 08:16 AM
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I think you're on the right track by suspecting the cups as it's the only place I know of where the coolant and the fuel even come close except of course, the entire head. (That would probably be rare.)

It's not too hard to do - just ensure you rotate the engine with the glow plugs out at least once to avoid hydro-lock when you pull the injectors.

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post #4 of 10 Old 10-16-2019, 05:24 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PDR60 View Post
Funny. I just had that discussion with my machine shop as I'm having some 7.3 heads surfaced and seats done. He told me that the stainless cups are for the pulling guys as they'll withstand the sudden thermal load. Then he said that for anything but racing, the brass cups were the way to go because they transfer heat much better and cool the injector cups much better. It makes sense when you think about it.
I have heard that before as well. But its very controversial. On a "race engine" there is far more heat to deal with in a short amount of time. On a fairly stock DD i do not see an issue with the minimal amount of heat dissipation lost going stainless.

The biggest issue is high HP street trucks IMO. They have alot of heat, and people that dont want to pull injectors regularly.

I could be totally wrong. But i have done stainless cups in one of our trucks with no issues. 60k and they are still fine, Truck is bone stock employee driven.

Also, a lot of people change injector cups to stainless, then 10k miles later an injector goes bad. They blame the cups. When in reality the injector had 200k miles on it and was going to crap out either way.

Just my measly 2 cents.

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post #5 of 10 Old 10-16-2019, 07:36 PM
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You're correct to suspect the cups. You could pressure test the coolant system with the injectors out to be sure it's not the heads, but I've also never heard of a cracked head on these. As far as brass or stainless, go with whatever helps you sleep at night. Brass ones are lasting 200k+ miles so I personally don't feel the need to upgrade. Heat transfer issues are pretty irrelevant either way for normal usage, including towing.

Make sure you use the green locktite and be liberal with it. While you're there, reseal your injectors, replace the glow plugs, retorque the rocker arms, and either do the 50 cent mod or replace your UVCHs. Pull the turbo -it will make your life a lot easier. And reseal the pedestal and CCV. As others have said, rotate the engine by hand with the injectors/GPs out to ensure any oil in the cylinders is pushed out. This shoots the oil out so have a towel or something covering it. Let the truck prime the fuel for 6 cycles then try to start it. It will probably still crank for a while and run rough until the air is worked out of the system.

I put a penny in the bottom of the cups while tapping them out to prevent metal shavings from dropping into the cylinder, but if you happen to crack a cup, now you have a penny in your cylinder. Pick your poison.

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post #6 of 10 Old 10-16-2019, 07:52 PM
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Fuel in coolant

Iíve never done cups personally, but my friend who owned my 7.3 before me (who is a diesel mechanic) put 8 cups in his/my truck before I bought it

He said a good trick is to put the sealant in the freezer for a while before you slop it on the cups, the cold thickens it so you can get a good amount of it on the cup without it running off


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post #7 of 10 Old 10-17-2019, 05:14 AM
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I've only ever done a couple of sets. The tool from Riffraff is the way to go. I was told by a diesel mechanic to just put a small amount of either grease in the bottom of the cup or a small amount of facial tissue to catch any brass. I've used both and they both work fine. He also told me to chill the loctite. It does work betterm


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post #8 of 10 Old 10-29-2019, 08:22 PM
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I am getting ready to do change the cups in my 02. Getting the tool from Riffraff and they sell the red loctite 620 with their kit. Why do some say use green loctite... Does anyone know what comes from the factory? Which one is better for this application?
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post #9 of 10 Old 10-30-2019, 08:38 AM
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If you're talking about the LOC620 - the bottle is red. The stuff inside is green. It's a high temp, high pressure sealant.

Amazon has it too - red bottle.

Green Loctite

01 F350 Dually 4x2 Long 7.3 - Manual - Mods: Hutch, Harpoon, Remote Fuel Filter, Dual Disk Southbend Clutch, Heim Joint, Gauges, Disabler, 08 Tail w/Camera, Pioneer Head w/Lockpick, Exhaust Brake, Rails, Air Raid, 06 Headlights, 50 cent, Air Bags, Hydra, Riff Raff Boots, AFE Blade Runner intake, CNC HPOP lines, Banks Monster Turbo Back 4 inch, Billet Aluminum Plenums, ATS Boost Fooler, AFE Wastegate, Bellowed Up Pipes, Garret Powermax Ball Bearing Turbo, 160/30's, Moroso Pan, CnC 4 Fuel X-Over, CxRacing Intercooler Pipes. Coming next: ?? Wish list: Train horn, 4x4 conversion.

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post #10 of 10 Old 10-30-2019, 09:53 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Arizona_SVO View Post
If you're talking about the LOC620 - the bottle is red. The stuff inside is green. It's a high temp, high pressure sealant.

Amazon has it too - red bottle.

Green Loctite
Oh ok. Thanks for the clarification! That makes more sense now
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