To Drain or Not to Drain - Page 2 - Ford Powerstroke Diesel Forum
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post #11 of 24 Old 08-29-2019, 01:27 AM
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Never have changed mine. 160k+ and change crankcase oil every 3k as general practice. 15w40 rotella and a FL-1995.
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post #12 of 24 Old 08-29-2019, 04:55 AM
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I have 425,000 on my f-350. I change mine every oil change and this is why, the oil in the hpop does recirculate but that oil is dirty and somewhat broken down just like the oil you are changing. If you don't change your hpop oil that dirty broken down oil remixes with your new oil. It helps to keep the oil a little cleaner and healthier from my experience. My 7.3 runs better now than it did when I bought it and I drive it like I stole it.

2001 f-350 2WD supercrew lwb daully, 425,000 mi., Adrinaline hpop, 4-corner fuel system, bellowed up pipes, 4 in. 16 blade turbo upgrade, oil crossover tube, double catch can PVC system, straight pipe exhaust, a good k&n filter, 33" grip tires at all corners and a basic superchips tune. Got to love the 7.3!
Note: I was told by a Ford salesman once that I should be driving a 6.0 or newer truck, that my 7.3 was a "DINOSAUR"! In response, I asked him, so what could actually out-pull a dinosaur? He replied, you got a point there. Lol
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post #13 of 24 Old 08-29-2019, 06:55 AM
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The next thing you should consider, if your concerned with contamination of the new oil, would be to drain the Injector rails and oil cooler too

I mean why stop there! Think of all that oil in the depressions in the top of the heads. If not perfectly level there might even be a corner of the oil pan that still has oil in it...

Look, this is just a way to make you feel good, you're really taking extra care of your engine. It's masturbation, not hurting anything, just makes you feel good.

Do it if you really have the need in your head (they have pills for that you know). But honestly,,, it's a complete wast of time. Every oil change on every engine leaves behind old oil and although we're leaving behind more than most (and again, the HPOP reservoir isn't even the majority of it) but at the same time we're adding twice as much fresh oil as most do because of the engine's oil capacity.
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post #14 of 24 Old 08-29-2019, 08:34 PM Thread Starter
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This is a pic of the lid I have. Guess I should be ok using a motorcraft filter?
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post #15 of 24 Old 08-29-2019, 10:50 PM
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The people that say it is a " waste of time" are the kind of people that are ok with not doing the best job at anything. I cant see that its a waste of time and effort. We change our oil to put new in, so why not try to remove as much old as possible even if it is only a pint. It can hurt anything, and will only allow more clean oil into the engine, that's the idea right? Old out new in? When we flush our cooling systems why do we pull the block plugs? to get more old out so you can put new in. Why do we pump out the torque converter when we change out the transmission fluid? Again more old out so more new in. It is wrong to say IMHO that its a waste of time, is it necessary? I don't know. Do you let the oil all drain from the pan after removing the bolt, or do you put it back in when the flow slows to a smaller than pencil sized stream? I know what I do. Let it drain, drink a beer, pump out the HP pump, replace filter, drink another beer, replace plug, fill HP pump and then finish filling system. Is it overboard, maybe... but is it senseless I doubt it. It does take a bit more time, maybe 2-3 minutes yes I give you that, but that is not my argument.To each his own I say. But do please not throw blanket statements out like "its a waste of time" unless you can give me evidence to the contrary. My time is just that , my time. I will chose to do with it as I feel. Prove to me that I am wasting my time and I may change my habits, but in this case I cannot believe that you will be able to. Like I said before, old oil out, new oil in. Drain your pan to half empty and save yourself some money on oil if you want I don't care its not my truck. Take your truck and only wash the top half of body, the soap will run down rest and clean it just fine.

2002 F250 Super Duty Crew Cab 7.3L Lariat 2WD 131,000mi; 4in turbo back custom exaust, Garrett GTP38R turbo, Riffraff boots, Dorman Up pipes, Ford Severe Duty AIS, 31 row 6.0 transmission cooler, Scangauge II, ISSPRO EV2 Boost-EGT-Trans temp Gauges, DP T-5 Tuner (stock ,60HP tow, Decel, 60HP highway econo, 80HP city econo), Dieselsite coolant filtration, Max Air A/C mod, foglight mod, AIH delete, LED interior, hid foglights.
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post #16 of 24 Old 08-30-2019, 04:15 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bjblackout View Post
This is a pic of the lid I have. Guess I should be ok using a motorcraft filter?


Thatís not the factory cap, by my understanding, you canít use an OEM filter unless you have an OEM cap


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post #17 of 24 Old 08-30-2019, 09:40 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jleedog View Post
The people that say it is a " waste of time" are the kind of people that are ok with not doing the best job at anything.
"doing the best job at anything" is not synonymous with "do things that provide no benefit just because they can be done".

Changing the HPOP requires removing a plug. Sticking suction tubes in there. There is potential for things going wrong, like leaks at the plug, introduction of dirt (dirt in the HPOP goes to the injectors before it gets to the filter), perhaps just making a mess. If performing a specific task provides no real, provable benefit, why take the risk of something going wrong?

BTW: During a coolant change, I drain the block because sediment accumulates in the bottom of the block. Draining the entire contents of the cooling system makes it possible to re-establish the desired ratio of protection, when the existing concentration may have changed from additions of water or be unknown. Your "drain the block for coolant" argument doesn't apply to engine oil. There is no sediment in the HPOP reservoir, and the remaining contents of the HPOP will be compatible with the new oil.
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post #18 of 24 Old 08-30-2019, 10:36 AM
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Well lets see there's oil in the cooler, how are you going to get that out? There's oil in both heads and all eight injectors,
How are you are going to get all that oil out? Don't worry about it!!
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post #19 of 24 Old 08-30-2019, 02:22 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 7.3_TurboDiesel View Post
That’s not the factory cap, by my understanding, you can’t use an OEM filter unless you have an OEM cap
My observation has been that the current aftermarket replacement filters (I use WIX) have the filter element permanently bonded to the cap. When you replace the filter, you replace the cap too. No choice.

I used a Wix for my first change, and I had difficulty getting the lid's threads to engage with the housing. The lid was just slightly crooked to the centerline of the filter so it 'wobbled' and was tough to get started, but I finally got it.

I anticipated that future replacement filters were going to be bonded-lid style, so I went to my supplier and purchased 3 OEM style, "no-lid" filters from existing stock. I saved the OEM lid, and still have one filter left which at my change interval will last me another 3-4 years. If in the future , no-lid filters are not available, I'll cross that bridge when I get to it.

If in 4 years Motorcraft are no-lid filters, that's probably what I'll use, as I found the bonded-lid filter to be fussy to install.
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post #20 of 24 Old 08-30-2019, 06:07 PM Thread Starter
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I have no idea what brand my lid is. It was in the truck when I got it. Just bought a motorcraft filter so I guess we will see if everything fits.
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