Stripped T40 bolts :mad::mad: - Ford Powerstroke Diesel Forum
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post #1 of 15 Old 08-20-2019, 04:51 PM Thread Starter
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Stripped T40 bolts :mad::mad:

I'm trying to replace my door strikers with new ones and I managed to strip 2 bolts. Whoever thought it was a good idea to put loctite and T40 bolts should get the death penalty. Does anyone have any ideas on how to get these out?

I used a dremel to make 2 slits into them and tried using a big flat head screw driver but I can't budge the things.

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post #2 of 15 Old 08-20-2019, 05:14 PM
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Weld a nut to it or cut it out. I suggest you weld a nut to it then blast it off with an impact.


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post #3 of 15 Old 08-20-2019, 05:22 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by DieselDC View Post
Weld a nut to it or cut it out. I suggest you weld a nut to it then blast it off with an impact.


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I don't own a welder or know how to use one. It would also kind of be hard to weld on it since its a mushroom head bolt not perfectly flat.

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post #4 of 15 Old 08-20-2019, 05:27 PM
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What about an impact driver? The kind you hit with a hammer. Harbor has them for cheap


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post #5 of 15 Old 08-20-2019, 06:52 PM
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if you can get to the backside of the bolt "carefully" heat the threads with a small propane/butane torch or 175 watt soldering iron. that will soften and melt the loctite. I have lower tailgate bolt that has a rounded out t50. I gotta do the same to get it out.
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post #6 of 15 Old 08-20-2019, 11:45 PM
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i went through that with my tailgate swap. one of the bolts was glued in with jb weld near as i can figure had to cut the head of with a saw blade and get a long nose vice grip on it from the other side and work it through complete nightmare
but at least it hasnt bothered me since

edit: i DID have to replace the threaded thingy (tech term) on the back side the torx connects to but with a fe oem parts it works great.
also i dont knw if there is a grey loctite that dries like cement but this thing was globbed with it...like someone else had had trouble in the past and stripped it and just glued it in
PO was a granite guy so he had the tail gate on and off a few times i am sure

the heat idea might get you there, or find someone with a welder to tack on a good bolt
good luck man its never fun with torx bits i swear

had to swapout the water pump in my daughters jeep the other day and lost my good t20 in her front end ...fell down in by the head light never to be seen again

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Last edited by john galt; 08-21-2019 at 06:55 AM.
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post #7 of 15 Old 08-21-2019, 12:57 AM
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If you aren’t comfortable with a butane torch or O2+C2H2 rig, freezing the bolt will work. I use it on aluminum and especially magnesium. CRC makes one, or you can use contact cleaner or keyboard cleaner held upside down. It’s the cold part of what we call “fire and ice” assembly. Bearing race in the freezer, and heat gun on part receiving race, but that’s a different subject.

Just concentrate the spray on the bolt head, and conduction will take care of the rest. If you can put a hair dryer on the B pillar, it will work better.
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post #8 of 15 Old 08-21-2019, 07:12 AM
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All good advice. Solder or Heat gun to the striker bolt then Vice-Grips around the head and maybe an impact screwdriver concurrently may break it loose. Otherwise, the nut welded to the head of the striker bolt will allow you to put a wrench and some @$$ to it so you can break it loose. The wire from the welder will make up the difference from the mushroom head of the striker bolt to the flat face of the nut. I know it's a PITA but they will come loose. If you were close by, a Dr Pepper and a half hour later you would be on your way.
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post #9 of 15 Old 08-21-2019, 08:14 AM
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Stripped T40 bolts :mad::mad:

I vote for the welding method, probably your best bet if it’s that tight. Pay a welder $10 for 10 seconds of his time to weld a nut on..

With the heat shock of welding it will back right out

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post #10 of 15 Old 08-21-2019, 08:35 AM
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I vote for welding a nut to it. Don't forget to disconnect the batteries before the welder does his thing too.
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