Recommendations on new brakes and rotors - Page 2 - Ford Powerstroke Diesel Forum
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post #11 of 32 Old 12-31-2018, 08:10 AM
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@billy 321 makes a good point. The OEM parts for our trucks are going to be hard to beat in this case for durability, safety, and longevity. Powerstop, Hawk, EBC, etc. all sell premium aftermarket/upgrade parts like pads and rotors. All have been around a long time and, IMO, none are just crap. However, when it comes to the quality of the caliper, it will be hard to beat the OEM Ford stuff. Not only did Ford put them on our beloved Super Duty trucks but, if memory serves, they were also put on the 2nd Gen Lightning as well. Surely the rotors and pads were different for that application but just goes to show that a good design can go across multiple platforms from a manufacturing standpoint especially when it is used in a performance application as well as a heavy duty application. You want fancy red, blue, or black calipers? OK - paint them or pay the $ to have them powder coated. I like the slotted, cross-drilled, zinc washed rotors as much as the next guy from both an aesthetic as well as a heat and gas dissipating standpoint but does it really make that much of a difference in overall braking performance? IMO, I don't think it makes as much difference in stopping power as a good, strong caliper and Ford pretty much nailed that one right out of the gate. Of course, good pad selection means a lot, too. Brake dust, squeal, frictional coefficient, etc. are all factors for consideration. Speaking of which, you wrote that "It’s time to replace all my brakes and rotors". I'm assuming that you're referring to the calipers as well but you were not specific. Are the calipers bad? If not, then why would you change them? Pads and rotors are, of course, wear items and do need to be changed when worn out. Again, any of the above mentioned companies make parts that could be considered as an "upgrade over stock" but idk if the difference will be all that great. @Mark [email protected] and @Mike Gs above say the difference is indeed noticeable so there's the word from someone who actually has them. At any rate, good luck with your project. Like the old guy in said in Indiana Jones - The Last Crusade: "Choose, but choose wisely".

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post #12 of 32 Old 12-31-2018, 08:51 AM
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I’d like to add within my experience with the Powerstop kit when it was new and I set the pads in as they mention in the instructions provided, I did notice somewhat of a difference with stopping performance but when towing a trailer with downgrades etc., no one wants to be heavy on the brakes no matter what one has for brakes etc., should be focusing on engine/trans braking to assist along with initial proper trailer braking from the trailer brake module. Weather permitting, I’d rather be a lil heavy on my trailers brakes to slow me down being they’re much cheaper and easier to replace.
When I got my Powerstop kit I noticed the caliper brackets provided were from a possibly early or later design (mine is 1/99) model truck which had small holes (vent hole possibly?) in them which my OEM brkts did not have. This ended up being a “fail” for me being the water/salt got into them seizing the pins, hence the recommendation of (remove & re grease-clean pins) every 6 months or so weather permitting where you drive. I found the dust boots from Powerstop (they give you many more then needed) were not a quality design and didn’t fit well with the powder coating of calipers.
Just my 2 cents.


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post #13 of 32 Old 12-31-2018, 09:01 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks guys! This is all extremely helpful advice. I was going to replace all 4 sets of calipers but I might as well just clean them up real good and try to reuse them if they’re still in good working order. I also believe it is just my rear rotors that are bad. When I brake, the truck bounces/pulses but it feels like its originating from the back end since there is no steering wheel shudder or pulling to either side. That being said, I’ll probably just replace the back ones for now. Does that seem reasonable to y’all?


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post #14 of 32 Old 12-31-2018, 10:33 AM
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No it doesn't

Today we replace rotors & pads Together (rotors are no longer cut, especially slotted ones). To add to that, new pads need to be Bedded to the rotor and you can't do that to a rotor that's not been resurfaced from the old worn out pads you were using.

I see no reason to replace calipers either if they're free and working. But, what can happen is that once you compress the pistons back into their bores, they can encounter corrosion and crud that has accumulated behind them. This can cause calipers that were working fine to have a piston that "sticks" some. I would flush the system with new fluid Before you compress the pistons back in.

You might want to upgrade the front caliper pins if they haven't been and be sure to clean and use new caliper grease on them in any case.

Brakes are No Place to shortcut...
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post #15 of 32 Old 12-31-2018, 10:41 AM Thread Starter
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Recommendations on new brakes and rotors

Ok...so basically just replacing everything might be the easiest and most headache free way to go


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post #16 of 32 Old 12-31-2018, 12:49 PM
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Yes, just start over if you plan on doing any driving that you’ll be on a road with. Eliminate any possibility of a failure with new parts and “fluid flush” plenty of YouTube videos and info on this site when you search for it.
Remember Ford calipers come with new pads included now as kits. Then you’ll know where you’re at in the braking Dept and can feel confident you can stop when need be.


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post #17 of 32 Old 12-31-2018, 01:02 PM
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Just looked at my bill. The rear calipers are retail $146.09 each and they came assembled with pads and bracket, just bolt on and bleed.
I worked at a Ford dealer in parts for many years and always helped anyone who was paying silly prices like that but even @ that price you’ll get it ready to bolt on. Just say hey buddy I’m spending a ****load of money, can you give me the wholesale price? Or maybe you’ve got a friend with a shop. Ask around never know can save a lot of money.
Good luck. Don’t forget the slide pins if yours are pitted or frozen.


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post #18 of 32 Old 12-31-2018, 01:06 PM Thread Starter
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What do you think are better, the OEM Superduty pads or the Hawk Performance LTS? I’ve read a ton of positives about the Hawks but have no experience with them.


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post #19 of 32 Old 12-31-2018, 01:25 PM
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I have no experience with hawk pads on my truck but have used them on another car. Forget the model but they were better than the OEM for that application and did make a lot of brake dust to clean.
Call or go to local Ford dealer and price everything out, as well as auto parts stores. Just remember Ford is new not reman and comes with pads where auto parts will probably not. Figure out your best option and price points you’d like to spend. Maybe Powerstop sells its rotors separate. I think they do. Can make up a system that way.


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post #20 of 32 Old 01-02-2019, 10:19 PM
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I pull a 45 foot camper just about all the time I was going threw brakes every 6 months till I started using drilled and slotted rotors and high temp fluid and a good brake pad and now I am getting 18 to 24 months on them and yes I love going to the mountain all the time in the summer
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