Oil leak in the valley. Pretty sure it's the turbo pedestal. - Ford Powerstroke Diesel Forum
 
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post #1 of 8 Old 12-23-2018, 05:03 PM Thread Starter
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Oil leak in the valley. Pretty sure it's the turbo pedestal.

I noticed an oil leak in my valley and checked the HPOP lines and they are clean and dry which leads me to believe it's my turbo pedestal and actuator arm. I am thinking about buying this kit because I might as well delete the EBPV so this wont happen again. I found a place where I can get a kit for the pedestal, housing, cast wheel 5+5, and bellowed up pipes for less than 200 dollars. Is this too good to be true(junk) or legit?

https://www.dieseltruckpartsdirect.c...MaAk4KEALw_wcB
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post #2 of 8 Old 12-24-2018, 05:35 AM
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I don't have any personal experience with this company but here is my $0.02: The only item I'd be worried about is the compressor wheel since it's spinning at 30,000rpm. Everything else is a pretty low risk, simple item to manufacture. The up pipes claim to be 409 stainless but verify upon receipt. I'm running a set of "budget" up pipes myself with no issues for about a year now. The other items should be pretty apparent upon receipt if there are obvious defects.

I went through a bunch of products on their website and nothing really jumps out at me. They sell some OEM parts which lends to their credibility and other parts are "in line" with prices elsewhere, which makes me feel a little better that they're at least in tune with the market. Wouldn't hurt to give them a call (they have a phone number) and see if the phone conversation raises any flags - ask them how their price is so low on this product.

On a related note, it's worth rebuilding the turbo while you have it out. It's easy and relatively cheap.

Finally, I have an OEM cast compressor wheel (the "updated" one to eliminate turbo bark) if you'd like it for the cost of shipping. PM me if so.

2000 ECLB 4x4 7.3L PSD - Converted from a beat up XL farm truck and frame off restored thanks to New England road salt
Cosmetic: 05 Harley front end, 11 tailgate, black sport full power interior, 05 dash with aux switches and brake controller
Performance: AFE intake, SPX billet compressor wheel, Turbomaster wastegate, blank pedestal & exhaust housing, MBRP 5" exhaust, PHP Hydra, gauges and CTS2
Audio: Sony XAV-AX5000, JBL Club speakers, fully sound deadened

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post #3 of 8 Old 12-24-2018, 06:20 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Lt.Dan View Post
I don't have any personal experience with this company but here is my $0.02: The only item I'd be worried about is the compressor wheel since it's spinning at 30,000rpm. Everything else is a pretty low risk, simple item to manufacture. The up pipes claim to be 409 stainless but verify upon receipt. I'm running a set of "budget" up pipes myself with no issues for about a year now. The other items should be pretty apparent upon receipt if there are obvious defects.

I went through a bunch of products on their website and nothing really jumps out at me. They sell some OEM parts which lends to their credibility and other parts are "in line" with prices elsewhere, which makes me feel a little better that they're at least in tune with the market. Wouldn't hurt to give them a call (they have a phone number) and see if the phone conversation raises any flags - ask them how their price is so low on this product.

On a related note, it's worth rebuilding the turbo while you have it out. It's easy and relatively cheap.

Finally, I have an OEM cast compressor wheel (the "updated" one to eliminate turbo bark) if you'd like it for the cost of shipping. PM me if so.
Thanks for the reply Dan, I was thinking the same thing. What do you mean rebuild the turbo? I would be very interested in your compressor wheel if it will help the performance of the truck.
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post #4 of 8 Old 12-24-2018, 10:41 AM
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A turbo rebuild is basically replacing the bearings. Most "rebuild" kits come with a 360 degree bearing instead of the stock 270(?) for supposedly more even support. Here's an example from RiffRaff that has full instructions:
https://www.riffraffdiesel.com/gtp38...ild-kit-99-03/
Took me less than an hour to complete the rebuild once the turbo was out already for the pedestal and up pipes.

Any cast compressor wheel will not increase performance, necessarily. Ford started issuing different compressor wheels featuring a staggered fin design to eliminate turbo surge (or bark) that some experienced when letting off the throttle under high boost. Any cast wheel that's advertised as an upgrade just uses this design (or a variation). This is the wheel that I have if you're still interested. It's essentially Wicked Wheel 1, they just figured out the problem and started selling a fix before Ford did. A performance increase only comes from upgrading to a billet wheel, and it's marginal at that. These wheels are lighter for faster response and can have a more complex geometry to better produce boost. They work in theory, and I run one, but I doubt you'd notice a difference in the real world.

2000 ECLB 4x4 7.3L PSD - Converted from a beat up XL farm truck and frame off restored thanks to New England road salt
Cosmetic: 05 Harley front end, 11 tailgate, black sport full power interior, 05 dash with aux switches and brake controller
Performance: AFE intake, SPX billet compressor wheel, Turbomaster wastegate, blank pedestal & exhaust housing, MBRP 5" exhaust, PHP Hydra, gauges and CTS2
Audio: Sony XAV-AX5000, JBL Club speakers, fully sound deadened

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post #5 of 8 Old 12-24-2018, 11:03 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lt.Dan View Post
A turbo rebuild is basically replacing the bearings. Most "rebuild" kits come with a 360 degree bearing instead of the stock 270(?) for supposedly more even support. Here's an example from RiffRaff that has full instructions:
https://www.riffraffdiesel.com/gtp38...ild-kit-99-03/
Took me less than an hour to complete the rebuild once the turbo was out already for the pedestal and up pipes.

Any cast compressor wheel will not increase performance, necessarily. Ford started issuing different compressor wheels featuring a staggered fin design to eliminate turbo surge (or bark) that some experienced when letting off the throttle under high boost. Any cast wheel that's advertised as an upgrade just uses this design (or a variation). This is the wheel that I have if you're still interested. It's essentially Wicked Wheel 1, they just figured out the problem and started selling a fix before Ford did. A performance increase only comes from upgrading to a billet wheel, and it's marginal at that. These wheels are lighter for faster response and can have a more complex geometry to better produce boost. They work in theory, and I run one, but I doubt you'd notice a difference in the real world.
Thank you Dan for the help, I will look into the rebuild kit as I will have everything out anyways. I am interested in your updated wheel,thank you very much for the offer!
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post #6 of 8 Old 12-24-2018, 06:01 PM
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I just did the EBPV delete, I got the parts from Advance Auto Part's, they carry Rotomaster part's. I used some discount code's had them price match a internet price and ended up getting the pedestal and exhaust housing for a few bucks more than I could get just the pedestal by Garrett. The up pipe's I have used the Dorman pipe's with no issue's, as far as a compressor wheel I have gone with the KC Turbo wheel and Im very happy with the performance.

2001 7.3L CCSRW 4X4
2003 7.3L CCDRW
S&B intake, 4" Flo-Pro Exhaust
ISSPRO EGT/Transmission. Edge SCT2
PHP Hydra chip's
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post #7 of 8 Old 12-24-2018, 06:55 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by hansel View Post
I just did the EBPV delete, I got the parts from Advance Auto Part's, they carry Rotomaster part's. I used some discount code's had them price match a internet price and ended up getting the pedestal and exhaust housing for a few bucks more than I could get just the pedestal by Garrett. The up pipe's I have used the Dorman pipe's with no issue's, as far as a compressor wheel I have gone with the KC Turbo wheel and Im very happy with the performance.
Did you think the install of the pedestal, delete, and up pipes were hard?
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post #8 of 8 Old 12-24-2018, 07:12 PM
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Did you think the install of the pedestal, delete, and up pipes were hard?
It's not that bad, the up pipe's are the hard part. I had the whole thing torn down in about 2-3 hour's, the key is soaking the bolt's for the up pipe's with PB blaster a few day's before starting the project. When installing the up pipe's hook up the passenger side but leave the bolt's at the manifold loose so you can install the V clamp onto the turbo, ounce that connection is good then install the driver side pipe and tighten them all down. If you go onto YouTube and search 7.3 Pedestal leak you should find a video that is by a Ford tech that is very informative. The job looks intimidating but it's really not, when you get the intake pipe's off and the intake off it's just 2 V clamps and 2 bolts and the turbo is out, then it's 4 bolt's for the pedestal.

2001 7.3L CCSRW 4X4
2003 7.3L CCDRW
S&B intake, 4" Flo-Pro Exhaust
ISSPRO EGT/Transmission. Edge SCT2
PHP Hydra chip's
2015 Heartland Prowler
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