New to me 7.3 - and a few items for guidance - Page 5 - Ford Powerstroke Diesel Forum
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post #41 of 84 Old 11-10-2018, 06:05 PM Thread Starter
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Today replaced:
-MAP sensor (Motorcraft)
-ICP Sensor (Motorcraft)
-Glow plug relay
and the Crank position sensor (not Motorcraft - but what AdvanceAuto had on the shelf and available) was changed a couple of weeks ago.

I have a new IPR valve - however did not install it today. Will do that tomorrow afternoon.

Engine cranked over for about 15-20 seconds... stopped, then turned the key again - the starter relay just clicks now without the starter motor turning. (I did use a booster battery pack this evening - and it cranked over a few times - but then stopped again - leaving me with a clicking starter solenoid) (No - I did not have my OBD hooked up when cranking)

Will be checking resistance in the crossover battery cable, and taking the batteries somewhere else to test. (Batteries tested okay at Wally world... I don't know that I trust that little handheld tester they use, though... )

Thoughts on whether it would be prudent to go ahead and pull the starter and have it tested at my parts store while the batteries are checked? (I'm thinking so - since the batteries seem to be killed so quickly - this was my first time to crank it since I charged the batteries the other day)

Last edited by HarmonyHollow; 11-10-2018 at 06:33 PM.
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post #42 of 84 Old 11-10-2018, 07:31 PM
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In my limited experience, a clicking solenoid is indicative of a poor connection or low voltage. If you can, check voltage at the starter as it’s being cranked. Anything below 10.5V isn’t good. Resistance checks on wiring isn’t always accurate, I learned that the hard way in Alaska. It needs to be tested under load through voltage drop.

I’ve read that a killer starter for this engine is a Denso one. Expensive, but insanely fast cranking. Good luck man, I’m relatively new to diesels myself.
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post #43 of 84 Old 11-10-2018, 09:40 PM
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Sounds like you have multiple problems, but got to get her crankin before anything else,

Have you checked the grounds where they connect to the truck(not the battery)? also where the cable connects to the terminal ends.

Find a good ground spot on the engine and clip your voltmeter ground there, hold the other lead on the ground post of the battery, try to crank the engine(or use the headlights) ...voltage should be zero or near
This will test grounds, cables, and connections ...you can do this for the hot side, but it is more difficult.

Want to load test the batteries? Disconnect one ground, check the voltage at the battery post(of the connected one) then turn the headlights on high beam, check voltage again ...more load try to crank the engine
The truck will start on only one good battery, alternate to the other battery and test again.

Rust and corrosion in the electrical path will cause the starter to seem bad ...even if the connections are tight ..eg: where the starter bolts to the engine.
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post #44 of 84 Old 11-11-2018, 06:19 PM Thread Starter
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Starter motor - removed & took to A.Zone for testing. Passed. This wasn't a load test, though. Thoroughly cleaned the connections at the starter motor (and on the transmission bell for the ground)- and reinstalled it.

Freshly charged the batteries overnight - and cleaned all terminals & connectors at battery, as well as the grounds coming off the batteries. The drivers side battery ground (down under the front of the block) has a lot of oil build-up on it - but is tight to the block. I do not know the condition of the cables inside the insulators, though.

Still get a "clicking" out of the starter solenoid. Meter showed 12.4v in and 11.9v on the load side of the starter solenoid. I hooked up a battery jumper pack - and lo-and behold - the starter motor engaged -and sounded like it was turning faster than I'd heard it turn in the past. Motor still didn't start, though. SO - I think I've got battery problems or issues with the battery cables/connections that I have not examined yet. I'm hoping for an easy problem of it being a bad battery... however, I see above where Hydro says that the truck * should * be able to start with one battery. Ugh!

Rainy day tomorrow - so I doubt I'll get a chance to do much after my work for the day. I'll use my laptop/FORScan for Windows and see if it reads cranking info as well as Torque did while my bluetooth OBD reader worked. (Now have an OBD reader that connects via USB - so have to use my laptop/FORScan instead of my phone with TorquePro).

Last edited by HarmonyHollow; 11-11-2018 at 06:25 PM.
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post #45 of 84 Old 11-11-2018, 07:44 PM
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Does your truck have the start solenoid on the RH fender?

In my defense, I was unsupervised
.
2006 F250 Lariat FX4 cclb
Torque Pro and OBDLink MX bluetooth monitor
General note:
For all those wanting a premium silicone sealer Kubota 70000-73764 is the best your gonna find. This is a hybrid gray silicone that uses solvent rather than acid to start the curing reaction, this makes it safe for aluminum and and any surface that involves coolant.
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post #46 of 84 Old 11-11-2018, 08:35 PM
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How old are your batteries? I know these trucks destroy batteries if they are started and shut down a bunch without long run times. Batteries usually are only good for 5-6yrs if they are a good brand. It might be best to buy some new batteries, that way you have a KNOWN good electrical starting point. I’ve been bit in the butt from stupid stuff like that.
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post #47 of 84 Old 11-11-2018, 11:48 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hydro View Post
Does your truck have the start solenoid on the RH fender?
Yes.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Adlais Distaw View Post
How old are your batteries? I know these trucks destroy batteries if they are started and shut down a bunch without long run times. Batteries usually are only good for 5-6yrs if they are a good brand. It might be best to buy some new batteries, that way you have a KNOWN good electrical starting point. Ive been bit in the butt from stupid stuff like that.
One is dated 3/17, and the other is 4/18. They are both Interstate MegaTron batteries. There is an Interstate retail store within a few miles of my home - and can take them there for testing (Though their website says they only warranty to the original purchaser of the batteries).
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post #48 of 84 Old 11-12-2018, 06:15 AM
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Couple of things:
Parallel connected batteries should always be replaced at once, the reason for this is, the older(weaker) battery will pull the 'good' battery down to it's level. On a daily driver you may not notice this as much, but let it set for a week or two and the batteries will seem dead.

Once a lead acid battery runs flat, it will never be as good.

Need to rule out voltage loss on the 'hot' side:
Here is where an analog meter is superior to a digital meter

I'm going to leave the next statement for educational purposes:
Alligator clip the black lead of the meter to the stud post on the starter(insulate as needed), hold the red lead to the battery post. Then either jump the fender solenoid(battery post to small post) or have a helper turn the key. Lower voltage reading is better.

Do this:
Take your test light and clip to the power stud on the starter, the other end touch to the battery positive post -- have a helper turn the key to crank -- the light should not glow(or only slightly)

Check the lock washer and nut on the big posts on the fender solenoid for discoloration or rust, replace as necessary. dont know how many times this has been the only problem ..lol

Need more coffee

In my defense, I was unsupervised
.
2006 F250 Lariat FX4 cclb
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General note:
For all those wanting a premium silicone sealer Kubota 70000-73764 is the best your gonna find. This is a hybrid gray silicone that uses solvent rather than acid to start the curing reaction, this makes it safe for aluminum and and any surface that involves coolant.
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post #49 of 84 Old 11-12-2018, 09:20 AM
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My 2cents

First I agree, it sounds like you have a couple of things going on. Get your yourself set up with ForScan, monitor those HiPres sensors and retrieve any fresh codes you have. Post the results of them, while attempting to start, here (Any Codes - ICP - IPR - Cranking Voltage - Cranking RPM).

But, let's deal with your starter so you can be sure you're spinning like you should all the time.


You could also have a High Resistance Battery Cable as in that vid...

Last edited by NoRalPh; 11-12-2018 at 09:24 AM.
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post #50 of 84 Old 11-12-2018, 10:07 AM Thread Starter
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I just dropped off both batteries to Interstate for a full charge and load test. They are telling me 24-36 hours to give them time for a proper job.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Hydro View Post
Couple of things:
Parallel connected batteries should always be replaced at once, the reason for this is, the older(weaker) battery will pull the 'good' battery down to it's level. On a daily driver you may not notice this as much, but let it set for a week or two and the batteries will seem dead.

Once a lead acid battery runs flat, it will never be as good.

(snip)
Need more coffee

Will do - as soon as the batteries are tested / figured out.


Quote:
Originally Posted by NoRalPh View Post
My 2cents

First I agree, it sounds like you have a couple of things going on. Get your yourself set up with ForScan, monitor those HiPres sensors and retrieve any fresh codes you have. Post the results of them, while attempting to start, here (Any Codes - ICP - IPR - Cranking Voltage - Cranking RPM).

But, let's deal with your starter so you can be sure you're spinning like you should all the time.


You could also have a High Resistance Battery Cable as in that vid...
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