Join Date: Aug 2018
Location: Southern Indiana
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Couple of things:
Parallel connected batteries should always be replaced at once, the reason for this is, the older(weaker) battery will pull the 'good' battery down to it's level. On a daily driver you may not notice this as much, but let it set for a week or two and the batteries will seem dead.
Once a lead acid battery runs flat, it will never be as good.
Need to rule out voltage loss on the 'hot' side:
Here is where an analog meter is superior to a digital meter
I'm going to leave the next statement for educational purposes:
Alligator clip the black lead of the meter to the stud post on the starter(insulate as needed), hold the red lead to the battery post. Then either jump the fender solenoid(battery post to small post) or have a helper turn the key. Lower voltage reading is better.
Take your test light and clip to the power stud on the starter, the other end touch to the battery positive post -- have a helper turn the key to crank -- the light should not glow(or only slightly)
Check the lock washer and nut on the big posts on the fender solenoid for discoloration or rust, replace as necessary. dont know how many times this has been the only problem ..lol
Need more coffee
In my defense, I was unsupervised
2006 F250 Lariat FX4 cclb
Torque Pro and OBDLink MX bluetooth monitor
For all those wanting a premium silicone sealer Kubota 70000-73764 is the best your gonna find. This is a hybrid gray silicone that uses solvent rather than acid to start the curing reaction, this makes it safe for aluminum and and any surface that involves coolant.