DIY T444E Swap - Ford Powerstroke Diesel Forum
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post #1 of 46 Old 08-23-2018, 06:20 PM Thread Starter
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DIY T444E Swap

I've been spending way too much time on these forums trying to figure out how to swap in a T444E to my 99.5 F250. Haven't found someone who posted a complete swap process yet, so I figure I'll be that guy. This is my first diesel truck, bought it a week ago and found out that someone went to a lot of effort to cover up what I suspect is a cracked block.

This is a work in progress, but I want to have it done in the next few days. Might as well start now though.

Picked up this T444E from a local junkyard today. $1500 out the door (well, before Uncle Sam got his cut), 114K miles, came out of a 2001 school bus. First engine I've put in my F150 that actually caused suspension sag.

Also had to drive the truck 5 miles or so from the shop that was diagnosing the coolant -> oil leak. Paid them an obscene amount of money to not only not fix anything, but make several things worse. Also, the truck that I bought a week ago got backed into in their parking lot, so that's a bonus. I'm taking the insurance money and putting it towards what I'll lose when I sell the truck. Had someone tell me it was leaking coolant at a stop light, but I had a mile or so left to go and the engine is coming out anyway so screw it, it's going to make it there whether it wants to or not. Here's where it was leaking, from where the shop charged me $200 to pull the water pump and look at the front cover for cavitation. Not sure I got what I paid for with that shop. But it made it home, so that's what counts. I guess.

After some head scratching about exactly how I was going to get the engine out of the bed of the F150, I got it on the hoist.

I don't have a stand that can hold this thing, so I pulled the oil pan tonight and cleaned it up a little, I'll get it spotless tomorrow. That epoxy is no joke, hopefully I can get things clean enough that it forms a good seal even without flipping the motor. The pan is one of the things that has to get swapped, so that was non optional.

Tomorrow the engine comes out of the 250, and then things start getting swapped. Be back with an update soon.

EDIT: Apparently I can't have pictures inline due to a low post count. That's unfortunate, it would be much more efficient to be able to just link them, but whatever.
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post #2 of 46 Old 08-23-2018, 07:05 PM
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I have one in my 02. Block is the same. You move your psd accessories over. What doesn’t look psd, remove and replace.

It’s good you’re doing a write up - we’ll have it on paper this time.


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post #3 of 46 Old 08-24-2018, 06:29 AM
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I wonder if you lucked out and got the “high torque” model T444E. They have larger single shot injectors in them. They make over 100 ft pounds more than a late model PSD stock vs stock. If you have these injectors and plan on keeping them, you’ll need single shot tuning


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post #4 of 46 Old 08-24-2018, 06:34 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rappy700 View Post
I wonder if you lucked out and got the “high torque” model T444E. They have larger single shot injectors in them. They make over 100 ft pounds more than a late model PSD stock vs stock. If you have these injectors and plan on keeping them, you’ll need single shot tuning


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These are AD injectors, with an AE in at least the number 8 cylinder. Haven't pulled the other valve cover to check it yet.
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post #5 of 46 Old 08-24-2018, 04:56 PM Thread Starter
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Alrighty, nightly update.

Got a late start today, had some business stuff to attend to. But I'd guess I spent about 5 hours on it today.
  • Pulled batteries
  • Pulled bumper
  • Pulled headlights
  • Pulled fan and shroud - I think I rented one of the few good fan clutch removal sets from Advance
  • Pulled radiator, intercooler, and then front core supports
  • Detached AC compressor from the bracket, left it and the condenser connected and tucked as out of the way as possible.
  • Hurt my back
  • Disconnected all lines and harnesses going to the engine
  • Began on disconnecting turbo. Got it down to the clamp on the up pipe, fought with it for two hours, and threw my hammer across the shop at least once. I have this sign up for a reason.
  • Hurt my knees
  • Drenched that damn clamp in PB blaster and called it a night.

If anyone has a tip for that clamp, I'm all ears. I've hit it, I've pried on it, I've asked it nicely, I've called it every expletive I know and a few I made up. It's fairly loose on both sides, but I can't get underneath the turbo to loosen it there.

Also, when I finally get that clamp loose, what direction do I need to pull the turbo to get it out? I've read straight up, I've read straight forward, and I've read twist. I've tried yanking on it as it is, but it doesn't want to budge. Everything else is disconnected, so I'd expect to see a little bit of movement. But it's like it's still bolted down.

Tomorrow that engine comes out, and hopefully I can get everything swapped over to get the new one back in place, and then let the oil pan epoxy sit overnight and be ready to go Sunday morning. Goal is still to have it done by the end of the day Sunday, but if today is any indication I'm going to end up fighting something stupid and get delayed. Fingers crossed.
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post #6 of 46 Old 08-24-2018, 05:21 PM
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The turbo is held down by two 18mm. Remove them, the clamp in the back of the turbo.

Up, and towards you and the turbo will come out.


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post #7 of 46 Old 08-24-2018, 05:38 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DieselDC View Post
The turbo is held down by two 18mm. Remove them, the clamp in the back of the turbo.

Up, and towards you and the turbo will come out.


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I got the two bolts that sit between the two halves of the turbo and hold it down to the pedestal, but I think they were like 13s. Is there something else I'm missing?
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post #8 of 46 Old 08-24-2018, 05:55 PM
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Oops they are 1/2” and torqued 18 ft/lbs

Held down by two bolts

Two brackets.

And cac tunes.

If it ain’t coming off it’s seized to the rear collector.


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post #9 of 46 Old 08-24-2018, 05:59 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DieselDC View Post
Oops they are 1/2” and torqued 18 ft/lbs

Held down by two bolts

Two brackets.

And cac tunes.

If it ain’t coming off it’s seized to the rear collector.


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I think the up pipe clamp is still holding it down pretty good, I'll figure that out tomorrow and then break out the rubber mallet and start hitting things.
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post #10 of 46 Old 08-25-2018, 05:40 AM
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You’re probably at the point of no return now anyway, but just wanted to say that the turbo can be left on to remove the engine, that’s the way I’ve done it. It’s tight but it’ll go


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